I'll see about the battery cables. I was installing an oil pan baffle and didn't think I'd have to take anything else off so I didn't have the gasket. I ordered one, should be in this week so I'll use rtv for now and take it easy.

 

The gas tank pressure just existing like that in the first place tells me the tank isnt venting right. Period. IT is whats flooding the carb. The only way to fix it is to leave the cap off of the tank AFTER YOU SHUT IT DOWN for about 30 mins while hot.

THEN, when there is NO VENT PRESSURE INSIDE THE TANK, inspect to see if the carb has magically flooded on its own. It wont have. Good luck.

 

But I've had this problem while getting gas. Shut it off and pull the cap off, fill it, then start it 5 minutes later and it's flooded or something else that won't start it. I vent the cap whenever I park it but I don't trust it to make a quick stop anywhere. I've resorted to bringing the gas to the car

 

You really arent getting what im saying at all. Frustrating as hell.

Good luck.

 

So I fixed my temperature problem and I believe thats one of the reasons why my car won't start when its hot. I think the higher than normal temperature overheats the starter so it doesn't function well till it cools down. They did the compression test when it was hot and the starter spun the rotors at 212 rpm. Does that seem low? I'm not sure of what numbers the starter should get. The starter also grinds, but not much I'd say about 1 in 20 times I start my car or less. I'll buy a new starter since I don't want it to get worse and I'll get new battery cables, so hopefully it'll start like a champ right after I rebuild the carb.

 

My starter grinds occasionally as well. Turns out its the way I hold the key in the ignition. If I hold
it one way, the start spins but the solenoid doesn't engage all the way. If I change how I
hold it, starts every time. I assume I have an issue in the ignition switch which I redid 20 years
ago but it may be time to do it again maybe.

 

Well I've been doing some research and found that if the car is cranking but won't start then it's most likely not a starter problem? The starter is much, much slower when starting warm rather than cold. I'm confused and I could just keep throwing money at this thing before I actually find the problem. I'm starting to think it's the engine but all signs point to the starter. Also when im driving i have to rev it to 4k or past it to get any sort of acceleration which could just be a crappy port job. It isn't slow just annoying to turn onto busy roads. I'll probably just buy a starter and if that doesn't fix then I'll start saving for a beater so I can rebuild the car. Any thoughts?

 

I hate to say it but post 17 predicted this 1 month ago.

Getting a beater thats cheap and reliable is a good decision unless you can't afford both. Then you
need to really sit down with yourself and determine the future of you and your rx7.

 

I do need a beater, probably save so much more money haha. But anyways I believe I found the problem. I was powerfoaming my carb and I realized that in the one primary? (It's the bigger one) the foam wasn't getting past the butterfly. I finished up and shut off the car, waited fifteen minutes and went out and started the car, which actually started but didn't want to I had to floor the pedal and let it crank for 5 or so seconds. It was idling crappy, which is what I expected for a bit at first. But it kept idling crappy so I reopened the top hat and fuel or power foam was built up above the butterfly. Took it for a short drive and ran it out and the butterfly opened up and it idled fine at 1k. Any ideas of how to fix this? I've been eyeing the weber side draft and am probably going to get that since I'll need to rebuild the nikki anyway, why not upgrade to something more simple. I think the lack of fuel on startup and a slow starter combined is my problem.

Pics should be chronological order from left to right.

 

Better yet, get another FB also. That way between the two, you are bound to have one working. Well, most of the time anyways!

 

Ok guys, so I'm throwing a lot of speculation at this problem and it's probably stupid and a waste of time. But it could also save me money.

Previous post, completely stupid haha they weren't even the primaries and I doubt that's my problem now.

I was looking around other threads and someone brought up something about this cable that is part of the throttle cable that should be attached to some linkage. In which case mine is not. I believe it's for the choke. Maybe that's not the problem since it's probably been detached this whole time. I'll reattach it tomorrow and see if it changes anything but it could've fallen off at some point

Btw no more gas tank pressure since I fixed my thermostat. Car also started fine after washing it. Drove 30 mins home turned off and washed it. Turned back on, it struggled, then I shut it off a couple mins later. Went to turn back on to pull into garage but left the ignition on for 20 seconds before starting and it fired right up. I don't even know if the fuel pump comes on with the ignition, I can't hear it.

Just reread this post and I sound like an absolute idiot, don't worry guys I'm a professional

 

Ah the teeter totter thing. Hook it back up and you should be fine.

 

Will I have to retune the idle?

 

omg i know right.

reminds me of first grade... this girl couldn't get how having 2 cookies and then receiving 3 more cookies brings her total cookies to 5.. she couldn't grasp adding... i was just like take this bitch out in the field and put her down, she ain't no good.

the original poster would be better off in a FC.. or better yet, just get a miata...

 

Honestly I would love either, but I can't get rid of the fb. I'm learning, just one step at a time. I'd probably be even more screwed if I was having problems with efi. Just things like this that seem particular to the fb or even rotaries in general is completely new to me.

 

on the rx-8 when the side seals start to go it takes longer to start dew to low compression. a faster starter helps but is just a temp short fix. unlike rings on a piston engine the seals do not expand when hot. therefor you have low compression until it cools down. ask me how I know...

 

Yeah I know about the whole low compression thing but I really hope it's not that's I I'm trying to find other solutions lol.

I tried moving the teeter totter thing while it was idling, it didn't do anything but I haven't connected it permanently yet.

When I was trying to fix my blinker issue I found something that might be noteworthy. I found a connection that runs to the distributor disconnected in the area exactly where the my belt flew to when it broke. Which after it broke, is when I started having problems.

I'll clean all connections, grounds, etc dealing with the starter and engine. If that doesn't speed up the starter I'll get a new one or try adding another ground. Then I'll go from there.

 

I hope it is a simple fix, it does seem that when that broke & then you started having problems it would be something simple.