1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Winter driving/start up sequence

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Old 10-17-20, 09:48 AM
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Winter driving/start up sequence

Leave it to my dumbass to start the rebuild at the end of October (My family is currently stationed at the Minot AFB in ND) anyways, I was reading the Haynes manual aswell as other sources and all of them have a different way to start up a freshly rebuilt motor(Haynes said run it for a few minutes, shut off, check for leaks, then drive no more than 3 miles then shut off again. Someone else said run it for an hour. And lastly I found someone say drive it under load for quite a few miles) what would you recommend? And when winter comes to **** me, would it be recommended to drive a bunch if kept in warm garage? Temps get quite low up here but I don't want seals to seat improperly.

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Old 10-17-20, 10:18 AM
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I like to heat cycle it three times by letting it idle for 30 minutes letting it cool off completely between cycles. Then stay under 3k for the first 500 miles. Change oil at this point.
Old 10-17-20, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by KansasCityREPU
I like to heat cycle it three times by letting it idle for 30 minutes letting it cool off completely between cycles. Then stay under 3k for the first 500 miles. Change oil at this point.
thanks
Old 10-26-20, 03:11 AM
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Originally Posted by KansasCityREPU
I like to heat cycle it three times by letting it idle for 30 minutes letting it cool off completely between cycles. Then stay under 3k for the first 500 miles. Change oil at this point.
Why would you need to change the oil? I'm approaching 450 miles and have run it up to 6 k for periods of about 2 seconds on at least 5 different occasions just because my car is an auto and the carbon deposits will be an issue as the car never sees above 2700 unless I floor it from 0 .
Old 10-26-20, 10:28 AM
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Mix of new/old parts are mis-matched tolerances on a Build. The 500mi oil change flushes out the debris.

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Old 10-26-20, 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by 7aull
Mix of new/old parts are mis-matched tolerances on a Build. The 500mi oil change flushes out the debris.

Stu A
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Well, that explains why the oil was so darn filthy after I removed the oil cooler.
Old 11-09-20, 01:24 AM
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Originally Posted by KansasCityREPU
I like to heat cycle it three times by letting it idle for 30 minutes letting it cool off completely between cycles. Then stay under 3k for the first 500 miles. Change oil at this point.
As rebuild time approaches I was wondering what im supposed to do with cooling system during heat cycles.. fill coolant to top, put cap on, and refill after every cycle? Or keep cap off and refill as it goes down? Haynes manual said that coolant level will drop but I'm not sure if it means it'll drop quickly or not so quickly
Old 11-09-20, 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by el_ghapo
As rebuild time approaches I was wondering what im supposed to do with cooling system during heat cycles.. fill coolant to top, put cap on, and refill after every cycle? Or keep cap off and refill as it goes down? Haynes manual said that coolant level will drop but I'm not sure if it means it'll drop quickly or not so quickly
It will drop because the engine will not have any coolant. Just leave the cap off and once the t-stat opens keep filling it. You can get a auto-feed funnel like this.

https://www.amazon.com/EPAuto-Radiator-Coolant-Filling-Funnel/dp/B01I40ZQWE/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=Radiator+Funnel&qid=1604939207&sr=8-7 https://www.amazon.com/EPAuto-Radiator-Coolant-Filling-Funnel/dp/B01I40ZQWE/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=Radiator+Funnel&qid=1604939207&sr=8-7

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Old 11-16-20, 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by KansasCityREPU
I like to heat cycle it three times by letting it idle for 30 minutes letting it cool off completely between cycles. Then stay under 3k for the first 500 miles. Change oil at this point.
alright, final question. What is "cool off completely"? 30 mins? An hour? A few? Also thanks for all your help.
Old 11-16-20, 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by el_ghapo
alright, final question. What is "cool off completely"? 30 mins? An hour? A few? Also thanks for all your help.
The goal is to let the t-stat close and to let the metal and seals in the engine cool off so it they back to its original state. The aluminum housings, iron plates, and all the soft seals will expend/contract. You want this to happen in a controlled environment and not on the road. If something is going to fail, better to be in the garage/home than on the road. Monitoring oil pressure/water temp and checking for leaks. 15 - 30 minutes.
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