All you guys reccomend either uber expensive Redline, Royal Purple, or Amsoil type oils or Castrol GTX...

I've seen the numbers on the first three, as compared to conventional oils. They're synthetic, but they burn, that means not only are they rotary safe, but they have low sulphur, low viscosity enhancers, low pour points, and high flash points.

Castrol GTX, however, I don't see how that's better than any other oil... The numbers seem consistent with the other oils.

What's wrong with something like Halvoline, or Pennzoil, or Quaker state???

Reference:
http://www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-overview.html

 

Really? I didn't know there were syn oils that burn up and dont leave deposits.

 

On my 80 I always used Castrol GTX, on my 85 when it had the other motor in it, I used whatever was cheapest.. LOL

On the turbo motor I think i put in some Castrol GTX, I personally hadnt had anything bad happen with either of them... Same with Fram Filters, never had anything bad happen with them either... So I dunno...

 

when i had my 87 corolla i used nothing but castrol gtx in the car. well shortly after i got it, it starting smoking and using oil like a ****! because of this i ran the oil dipstick dry like 5 times and never did the engine lock or start knocking. shortly after i decided to rebuild the block and found no signs of bearing damage from oil starvation so ever since i used nothing but castrol gtx.

 

because, it's "designed for today's higher revving cars" !!! don't you watch the commercials?

 

Oh yeah! The TV never lies!

 

lol

 

lol. Until I discovered Synthetic about a year ago, every car I have had runs the GTX. Have had great results.
The Castrol motor oil is just purer than the others. I dont know if it really is any better, But I have never heard any bad stories.

 

I don't see whats so special about GTX either ... I run valvoline racing mineral oil in mine as its £10 for 5 litres instead of £15 for GTX ... the Valvoline stuff has a higher quality grade than the GTX too so far I'm really happy with it

 

Who the heck cares? Use whatever oil you want. If you want to use "Quacker" oil, go ahead; it's a cheaper oil, but if you're just driving the car and not racing it, it shouldn't matter much. 99% of the people I know use Castrol GTX. It works for me

Also, it's pretty inexpensive. I can go down to say...Wal-Mart and buy a 5-quart bottle for around $6 US. It's REALLY convienant, instead of buying 5 quart-sized bottles. Just pop the cap, and dump it in. Piece o' pie

 

I agree - so long as you are using a premium grade, it shouldn't matter that much. I would be more concerned about matching up the weight with the climate - IMO, the specs on the premium oils are so close, it's really not going to make much different in brand

 

I used to use nothing but Vavoline but now I use Castrol GTX. You know why? Cuz costco sells it cheaper then anywhere else here by the case. They used to sell Valvoline but not anymore

 

i have always used gtx 20w50 and never had any problems.

 

Castrol GTX because it's what Mazdatrix reccomends and uses at their shop and in all their own cars!

-bp-

 

I used to run Quacker oil in my high performance air cooled VW engines, and I found that Castrol held up better longer. I also used Castrol in all my motorcycles with good results, until the EPA forced them to modify their additive package and car oils started adding friction modifiers that mess with motorcycle wet clutches.

I don't have anything against synth oils in cars when they are applied correctly. By that I mean longer oil change intervals. That to me is the only reason to use them. For instance, on my Isuzu Rodeo the factory recommended oil change interval is 7500 miles. If instead of going for that long of an interval and change the oil twice as much, 3750 miles, you not only save money, but you are removing more contaminents sooner before they have a chance to corrode the bearing surfaces.

The real damage in an engine occurs from one of two reasons: During startup before there is oil pressure and the bearing surfaces are in contact, and from corrosive agents that are formed as a result of the compustion bypass gasses in the crankcase. During normal operation, bearing surfaces are never in contact, the oil is between them.

Basicically, what works for me is shorter oil change intervals with mineral oils, and Castrol is just what I prefer. I have heard good things about Havoline too, but Castrol is cheaper at Walmart and Costco. Every time I try to run synth oil in my Isuzu V-6, I find that it consumes oil at a higher rate than with the mineral oil (about 1 qt. per 2000 miles, compared to 1 qt. per 4000 miles), which makes using it much more costly than changing the oil more often with mineral oil.

For my motorcycle, I've finally switched to motorcycyle specific oils, and talk about expensive!! For the last couple of years I've been using synthetic diesel oil with good results, but I gave in.

I'm about to switch out my 20W-50 Castrol GTX for 10W-40 for winter driving. Maybe even 10W30?? Heat definately doesn't seem to be as big of an issue on this motor since I've repaired the carb, cat, and flushed the radiator and added water wetter. Plus with me using the heater more....yeah, I think I'll go to a 10W30.

 

Well, I had Quaker state break down in my Courier, causing the motor to develop a flat spot in the cam, so no Quaker state for me. In non-synthetic oil, I like Valvoline better simply because it is a little lighter and clearer (motor honey!) than the rather dark Castrol. I have used Castrol GTX , and had no problems with it. Valvoline is pretty big in racing. Even synthetic oil will leave deposits, just less of 'em. -Mike

 

Oil is oil, just use whatever the hell you want to. Just make sure you change it often.

 

I use Castrol cause it works.