Where is this oil coming from?
03-27-11, 10:42 PM
#26
Oil Leak
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Low Budget Solution to the O ring oil leak:
1) Change your oil to fresh 20-50W oil (Castrol preferred). Old lighter oil will leak faster than fresh heavier oil. That should help some.
2) Add the engine oil stop leak, this will condition the seals and may help slow the leak significantly.
These two things can slow a serious leak and make it manageable. Have you done them yet?
1) Change your oil to fresh 20-50W oil (Castrol preferred). Old lighter oil will leak faster than fresh heavier oil. That should help some.
2) Add the engine oil stop leak, this will condition the seals and may help slow the leak significantly.
These two things can slow a serious leak and make it manageable. Have you done them yet?
03-28-11, 06:54 AM
#27
Cross your fingers, there's no guarantee but it sure worked for me.
The stop leak doesn't take effect immediately, it needs a few days and a few hundred miles to do its thing and the longer it's in the better it seems to work - that's why I continued adding it at each 3000-5000 mile oil change.
Good luck, let us know how it comes out.
The stop leak doesn't take effect immediately, it needs a few days and a few hundred miles to do its thing and the longer it's in the better it seems to work - that's why I continued adding it at each 3000-5000 mile oil change.
Good luck, let us know how it comes out.
03-28-11, 01:17 PM
#28
Oil Leak
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It's warm out today (almost above freezing!) so I decided to take it out and warm it up proper with some in town driving before hitting the highway and doing a couple 0-60 pulls. I managed about 11 seconds which isn't bad considering I was babying the clutch. Oil seemed to behave fine, it isn't puddling so much to the left of the MAZDA imprint as it is the right side. Could this be a filler pedestal leak?
Also, is it normal for the motor to bog down from idle if I slam it to the floor? Partial flooding? It doesn't bog anywhere else whilst revving, but does seem to occasionally misfire if I hold it at any specific point on the tach. Is THAT bad?
Also, is it normal for the motor to bog down from idle if I slam it to the floor? Partial flooding? It doesn't bog anywhere else whilst revving, but does seem to occasionally misfire if I hold it at any specific point on the tach. Is THAT bad?
03-29-11, 07:49 PM
#30
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Oh crap, mine has the same leak. '83 with 86,000 orig miles and everything stock I figured I wouldn't do anything to it until it turned 100k. I'll try some sort of leak stopper, but if I have to rebuild I know I'll want to have it modified a little.
03-29-11, 07:56 PM
#31
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if the engine hasn't fully warmed up it could be normal. When you say bog down do you mean it looses power and then comes right back, or does it act like it might be running out of fuel? On both of my 83s they had symptoms similar to bogging down and it was a clogged fuelnfilter Change the fuel filter and get some fresh gas in it. And see if that helps. Filters are so cheap it should be changed every couple years.
03-29-11, 08:16 PM
#32
Oil Leak
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if the engine hasn't fully warmed up it could be normal. When you say bog down do you mean it looses power and then comes right back, or does it act like it might be running out of fuel? On both of my 83s they had symptoms similar to bogging down and it was a clogged fuelnfilter Change the fuel filter and get some fresh gas in it. And see if that helps. Filters are so cheap it should be changed every couple years.
03-31-11, 09:28 PM
#34
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Since I'm having the same problem and I'm contemplating the oil treatment, fired off an e-mail this morning to Goldeagle, the company who makes NO-LEAK Engine Oil Treatment. They said: "We would not recommend using our NO LEAK Engine Oil Treatment in this engine."
I'm going to check with a few other companies too and let everyone know what options are available.
I'm going to check with a few other companies too and let everyone know what options are available.
04-01-11, 05:29 AM
#35
Have you ever noticed that in today's litigious society nobody claims anything works? Nobody knows nothing.
You send an email asking if it works.
They send an email back saying it works great for rotary engine oil seal leaks (which it does, at least in some cases).
You use the product and something happens to your engine.
Email in hand, you sue their company, whether their product had anything to do with your engine failure or not.
What they sent you is called a disclaimer.
Incidentally, ask any regular mechanic, parts supplier or manufacturer anything about a rotary engine and most likely you will get a disclaimer.
It seems you have a simple choice:
1) Do nothing and continue to add oil and drive the car.
2) Do an engine rebuild.
3) Add the stop leak and 20/50W oil. If the leak slows or stops, good. If it doesn't, go back to step 1 or step 2.
Note: I still run a bottle or two pf the GE stop leak through the first oil changes on a engine that's been sitting even if it doesn't have the O ring leak. This cuts down on the amount of "start up" smoke you usually get with higher mileage 12A's. I've never had any problems with these engines.
Note: I did try one of the less expensive no leak products once when I couldn't find the gold eagle stuff (about $3.00/bottle instead of the $5/bottle for the gold eagle) and it didn't work nearly as well - the leak started to come back. Their might be others out there but you might need to do some trial and error to find them.
Disclaimer: I do not own stock in the Gold Eagle company.
You send an email asking if it works.
They send an email back saying it works great for rotary engine oil seal leaks (which it does, at least in some cases).
You use the product and something happens to your engine.
Email in hand, you sue their company, whether their product had anything to do with your engine failure or not.
What they sent you is called a disclaimer.
Incidentally, ask any regular mechanic, parts supplier or manufacturer anything about a rotary engine and most likely you will get a disclaimer.
It seems you have a simple choice:
1) Do nothing and continue to add oil and drive the car.
2) Do an engine rebuild.
3) Add the stop leak and 20/50W oil. If the leak slows or stops, good. If it doesn't, go back to step 1 or step 2.
Note: I still run a bottle or two pf the GE stop leak through the first oil changes on a engine that's been sitting even if it doesn't have the O ring leak. This cuts down on the amount of "start up" smoke you usually get with higher mileage 12A's. I've never had any problems with these engines.
Note: I did try one of the less expensive no leak products once when I couldn't find the gold eagle stuff (about $3.00/bottle instead of the $5/bottle for the gold eagle) and it didn't work nearly as well - the leak started to come back. Their might be others out there but you might need to do some trial and error to find them.
Disclaimer: I do not own stock in the Gold Eagle company.
04-01-11, 12:07 PM
#36
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Your funny. Actually I was thinking that maybe they did a search for Wankel Rotary, saw a picture and just assumed. I emailed about a dozen other companies last night and I'm really hoping to get a very positive response. If not I'll probably spend my paint job money on a rebuild. I prob. should just try it based on your feedback and others who have done it w/o any harm. I am just concerned that i'll cause more damage long run and the rebuild will cost more. Is that even something to be concerned about? I mean what harm can it do that isn't already broken? I honestly cant imagine doing a rebuild and not replacing every single gasket and o-ring anyway.
04-01-11, 03:09 PM
#37
My point exactly.
But maybe some Rotary Guru knows something I don't know about the damage adding stop leak will do to your 12A that a routine rebuild won't fix anyway. Damage to the seals that are already leaking? You need to do better than that.
Tell me and I will change my stop leak habits accordingly.
What I don't like is people with opinions ("You gotta rebuild it, the stop leak will wreck your engine") without any information or data backing up their claims or an explanation of what would happen.
Sounds like something you might hear at a transmission shop. Or from someone who rebuilds 12A's for a living. Or maybe just somebody who has never tried stop leak and doesn't know what they are talking about.
But maybe some Rotary Guru knows something I don't know about the damage adding stop leak will do to your 12A that a routine rebuild won't fix anyway. Damage to the seals that are already leaking? You need to do better than that.
Tell me and I will change my stop leak habits accordingly.
What I don't like is people with opinions ("You gotta rebuild it, the stop leak will wreck your engine") without any information or data backing up their claims or an explanation of what would happen.
Sounds like something you might hear at a transmission shop. Or from someone who rebuilds 12A's for a living. Or maybe just somebody who has never tried stop leak and doesn't know what they are talking about.
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