Where is it?
Where is it?
Where is the Igniter it is not where it should be according to my book I have a 81 rx7 and the trailing coil quit firing. I know its not the coil because I swaped them out. I have searched and there are lots of threads on the Igniter but I cant seem to find an answer of WHERE it is actually located in the car.
and oh yea allmost forgot. Can I swap the leading one out for the other to see if the trailing one is dead or will that burn something else up. IE are they different or the same?
Talking to myself.
Okay I found em. They are the far side of the distributor. Mine had some little rubber covers on them so I could not see them for what they were. They bolth have the same number on them. Now the question is can I just switch the wires on them where they are at to test and see if that is my problem?
did
Nah the coil isnt firing for sure.
So I pulled off all the rubber and switched the wires on the two ignitors Lo and behold the leading coil isnt firing now.
My question is why the hell did they put these things in such a hard to reach place? Its like this car is built in a place that had a nuclear bomb dropped on it or something. Its a mutant.
So I pulled off all the rubber and switched the wires on the two ignitors Lo and behold the leading coil isnt firing now.
My question is why the hell did they put these things in such a hard to reach place? Its like this car is built in a place that had a nuclear bomb dropped on it or something. Its a mutant.
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Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 8,376
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From: Chino Hills, CA
The first year Mazda did electronic ignition (1980), the igniters were on a control box on the left fender. They had problems with misfires caused by electrical interference (since the signal that comes from the distributor's reluctor is very small), so they moved the igniters as close to the reluctor pickup coils as possible.
AFAIK, just swapping the wires won't do. You have to take the ignitors OFF to swap them. You can get replacements cheap on eBay and the forum Classifieds.
All you need is a small cheap ($5) ratchet wrench that you can usually buy at the checkout counter at the Hardware store or the autostore. It takes a Phillips bit with a hex shank. It's quite easy to remove the two little screws that hold the igniter onto the distributor with that ratchet. It helps if you loosen the alternator belt and swing the alternator up out of the way (need a 12mm and a 14mm wrench of some kind for that). Should take less time than it took me to type this note.
All you need is a small cheap ($5) ratchet wrench that you can usually buy at the checkout counter at the Hardware store or the autostore. It takes a Phillips bit with a hex shank. It's quite easy to remove the two little screws that hold the igniter onto the distributor with that ratchet. It helps if you loosen the alternator belt and swing the alternator up out of the way (need a 12mm and a 14mm wrench of some kind for that). Should take less time than it took me to type this note.
wow!
So I pulled everything off switched this with that and it is indeed this little tiny block that is on the side of the distributor that is the problem.
moved the one that I thought was good to the spot where the bad one was at and the engine fires up.
funny thing though. Went to go buy one (order one cause they arent in stock) and the girl behind the counter wanted to know if it was the leading module or the trailing module. Had a hard time explaining that they were the same part. $140 for the leading $280 for the trailing.
Is that insane or what its the same part number ive had em bolth of they are absoultely identical (except one works the other doesnt)
So I went ahead an ordered the leading one wich it turns out was the bad one anyway.
moved the one that I thought was good to the spot where the bad one was at and the engine fires up.
funny thing though. Went to go buy one (order one cause they arent in stock) and the girl behind the counter wanted to know if it was the leading module or the trailing module. Had a hard time explaining that they were the same part. $140 for the leading $280 for the trailing.
Is that insane or what its the same part number ive had em bolth of they are absoultely identical (except one works the other doesnt)
So I went ahead an ordered the leading one wich it turns out was the bad one anyway.
So I pulled everything off switched this with that and it is indeed this little tiny block that is on the side of the distributor that is the problem.
moved the one that I thought was good to the spot where the bad one was at and the engine fires up.
funny thing though. Went to go buy one (order one cause they arent in stock) and the girl behind the counter wanted to know if it was the leading module or the trailing module. Had a hard time explaining that they were the same part. $140 for the leading $280 for the trailing.
Is that insane or what its the same part number ive had em bolth of they are absoultely identical (except one works the other doesnt)
So I went ahead an ordered the leading one wich it turns out was the bad one anyway.
moved the one that I thought was good to the spot where the bad one was at and the engine fires up.
funny thing though. Went to go buy one (order one cause they arent in stock) and the girl behind the counter wanted to know if it was the leading module or the trailing module. Had a hard time explaining that they were the same part. $140 for the leading $280 for the trailing.
Is that insane or what its the same part number ive had em bolth of they are absoultely identical (except one works the other doesnt)
So I went ahead an ordered the leading one wich it turns out was the bad one anyway.

You can pick up used ones for 25$ in the for sale section.
Im sure there are cheaper parts available. But at least I KNOW im gonna get the part. I tried getting the motor for one of my headlights, I got it but 3 weeks later. I need the part now and just dont have the time to wait.


