cletus

compressor itself? I know a few of you tried this when I brought it up before, I'm now just getting around to trying it. I know there are 2 fittings I need to change. It's amazing that Haynes and the FSM don't mention the AC system, and the only 2 I have spotted are on the compressor itself. Just trying to get it right.

Thanks.

MIKE-P-28

iTrader: (1)

Drain the compressor/system. Change out the HI/LOW fittings on the back of the compressor, so your fittings from your R134a charger will work. Then put it on a good vacuum for an hour. Then release the vacuum pump, see if it hold vacuum for a while. Then charge with R134a freon, be sure to use R134a oil

Theres a certail percentage of freon you have to use when you go from r12 to r134a. I THINK you use 80% of 134a at the R12's capacity.

Also be sure to change out the accumulator on the system, so its good and clean. Part that is in front of the radiator

cletus

My fittings are marked S & D. Which is high and which is low? Just making sure here.

MIKE-P-28

iTrader: (1)

S & D ? Isnt ringing any bells, but the large one will be low, the small one will be high side...

cletus

I think I have it right. Too bad my high pressure line is in the way of the fitting. This is going to be intriguing

Felix Wankel

Is there not a fitting on the line coming out of the firewall?

WackyRotary

Enlighten us, how cheap is this part. I think new ones for a early '80's GM vehicle I did this to costed $75. Just imagine what a "genuine Mazda" part would cost.

2 hott

iTrader: (4)

You should replace the dryer also.

MarkPerez

The 'S' is suction, (high) and the 'D' is discharge(low)

sberge01

just did the retrofit using a kit from a local autoparts store...about $30...also bought an ac leakstop bottle for less than $5.

All I had to do is to screw an adapter on the compressor (the "S" side, thicker pipe, mine was the one closer to the fender as I looked down on it)...did the leak detector / stop leak bottle (no problems), then followed the AC fill directions (2 bottle of R-134a, then a bottle of oil) and the AC was blowing stong.

FYI...I had an empty AC system (i.e. no R-12) to start, so I did not need to get that out / recovered...

This sure beats doing a fillup with R-12 - that is if you can find someone to do it!

Good luck...

WackyRotary

Thats cool. Ofcourse, it takes a few weeks or more to know that it won't leak out really. Those retro kits are a gamble if you don't have the whole system apart to get the R-12 oil out and new 0-rings also to get a well done retro-fit done. But R-134a is a bit cheaper so, recharging it couple times a year is no big woop.

MIKE-P-28

iTrader: (1)

Ha Ha Automotive INC right down the street.. They are $20-$30 all day long

Anyone need one, Ill get you the address and phone number, they mail worldwide

Also do rebuilds on compressors etc

MIKE-P-28

iTrader: (1)

BTW: I got a freon sniffer here, so I can tell right away if its leaking...

Badog

Sent you a PM for that information, Mike! TIA