When converting the AC to R134a, are the only 2 fittings I need to change on the.....
compressor itself? I know a few of you tried this when I brought it up before, I'm now just getting around to trying it. I know there are 2 fittings I need to change. It's amazing that Haynes and the FSM don't mention the AC system, and the only 2 I have spotted are on the compressor itself. Just trying to get it right.
Thanks. |
Re: When converting the AC to R134a, are the only 2 fittings I need to change on the.....
Originally posted by cletus compressor itself? I know a few of you tried this when I brought it up before, I'm now just getting around to trying it. I know there are 2 fittings I need to change. It's amazing that Haynes and the FSM don't mention the AC system, and the only 2 I have spotted are on the compressor itself. Just trying to get it right. Thanks. Theres a certail percentage of freon you have to use when you go from r12 to r134a. I THINK you use 80% of 134a at the R12's capacity. Also be sure to change out the accumulator on the system, so its good and clean. Part that is in front of the radiator :) |
My fittings are marked S & D. Which is high and which is low? Just making sure here.
|
S & D ? Isnt ringing any bells, but the large one will be low, the small one will be high side...
|
I think I have it right. Too bad my high pressure line is in the way of the fitting. This is going to be intriguing
|
Is there not a fitting on the line coming out of the firewall?
|
:(
Also be sure to change out the accumulator on the system, so its good and clean. Part that is in front of the radiator |
You should replace the dryer also.
|
The 'S' is suction, (high) and the 'D' is discharge(low)
|
just did the retrofit using a kit from a local autoparts store...about $30...also bought an ac leakstop bottle for less than $5.
All I had to do is to screw an adapter on the compressor (the "S" side, thicker pipe, mine was the one closer to the fender as I looked down on it)...did the leak detector / stop leak bottle (no problems), then followed the AC fill directions (2 bottle of R-134a, then a bottle of oil) and the AC was blowing stong. FYI...I had an empty AC system (i.e. no R-12) to start, so I did not need to get that out / recovered... This sure beats doing a fillup with R-12 - that is if you can find someone to do it! Good luck... |
All I had to do is to screw an adapter on the compressor (the "S" side, thicker pipe, mine was the one closer to the fender as I looked down on it)...did the leak detector / stop leak bottle (no problems), then followed the AC fill directions (2 bottle of R-134a, then a bottle of oil) and the AC was blowing stong |
Originally posted by WackyRotary :( Enlighten us, how cheap is this part. I think new ones for a early '80's GM vehicle I did this to costed $75. Just imagine what a "genuine Mazda" part would cost. Anyone need one, Ill get you the address and phone number, they mail worldwide :) Also do rebuilds on compressors etc :) |
Originally posted by WackyRotary Thats cool. Ofcourse, it takes a few weeks or more to know that it won't leak out really. Those retro kits are a gamble if you don't have the whole system apart to get the R-12 oil out and new 0-rings also to get a well done retro-fit done. But R-134a is a bit cheaper so, recharging it couple times a year is no big woop. |
Originally posted by MIKE-P-28 Ha Ha Automotive INC right down the street.. They are $20-$30 all day long :) Anyone need one, Ill get you the address and phone number, they mail worldwide :) Also do rebuilds on compressors etc :) |
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:23 PM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands