what type of clutch should i get?
#1
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what type of clutch should i get?
I have a 84 SE 6port turbo, stock tranny w/ a street n strip clutch kit from racing beat. Everything is fine under 10lbs of boost but when I go past 10lbs of boost, the RPM just goes to redline and the car doesn't go no where. I think the problem is the clutch. Maybe it can't handle that much boost.(max boost is 20lbs.) I was thinking about getting the ACT xtreme pressure plate w/ the 6 puck disc. I already have a light weight flywheel from RB on the car. Any opinions or suggestions on what kind of clutch I should get is appreciated. To the turbo 1st gen owners out there, I would like to know what kind of clutch you guys are running on your cars. Thanks for taking your time reading this thread.
#2
Shut Down The System
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i have a 4 puck sprung...but i wish i would have started out with a 6 puck sprung , now that i use the 4 puck i dont want the 6 puck but **** it took alot of getting used to in traffic . oh yea mine is an act pressure plate and bearing but the clutch is from another company , i bought it at murray's LOL the whole package .
#3
I've been using a act exteme psi plate, w/ the sprung hub full organic disc. Its easy to drive normal, it doesnt beat the **** out your trans, and I abuse the hell out of it. Hasn't slipt once in 2yrs.
#4
FB+FC=F-ME
Should'nt need a puck clutch,your just punishing yourself and your flywheel running surface.
I run a Racing Beat S/S HD clutch and pressure plate on my streetport S5 TII with about 300HP at 14psi.It holds just fine and is almost like stock to drive around with a steel RB flywheel.
http://www.mazdatrix.com/f86-92nt.htm
I went overboard once too,with a twin plate OS Giken clutch.....
It was super grabby and I stalled it a lot unless I had the radio off.I could have lived with it,but Im glad I decided to downgrade a little.With a fresh turn of the flywheel,and a careful break in period,my RB clutch has held up just fine,even when its really cold outside and the engine is pulling like a freght train.And stay away from the Centerforce junk.Even the highest grade DF clutch of theirs blew out in a year behind my engine,and that was before the S5 upgrade and bigger turbo.....
I run a Racing Beat S/S HD clutch and pressure plate on my streetport S5 TII with about 300HP at 14psi.It holds just fine and is almost like stock to drive around with a steel RB flywheel.
http://www.mazdatrix.com/f86-92nt.htm
I went overboard once too,with a twin plate OS Giken clutch.....
It was super grabby and I stalled it a lot unless I had the radio off.I could have lived with it,but Im glad I decided to downgrade a little.With a fresh turn of the flywheel,and a careful break in period,my RB clutch has held up just fine,even when its really cold outside and the engine is pulling like a freght train.And stay away from the Centerforce junk.Even the highest grade DF clutch of theirs blew out in a year behind my engine,and that was before the S5 upgrade and bigger turbo.....
#6
FB+FC=F-ME
RPMs arent really an issue except when actually letting the clutch pedal up.
When the clutch is engaged fully(foot off the pedal),there is no slip,thus no friction or heat and no wear generated.What causes the break-in and/or failure of clutch linings is how you APPLY the power while engaging the clutch.99% of the time you hear about people blowing their clutch,it happened when they launched or banged a gear.Thats because the abrupt,forceful engagment of the clutch puts high stresses on the linings and creates lots of heat.....just as surely as grandma's foot constantly resting on the clutch pedal as she drives.....friction creates heat and heat destroys the linings.
Most clutches require a 500 mile break in period.During this time,you should just drive normally.The more you stop and go,and shift....the smoother and better things will get because you are slipping and engaging the clutch during those actions.If you drive strictly on the highway,then the clutch break in period is going to take longer,because you are not shifting and clutching like during city driving......relative to the miles you travel.
And please turn your flywheel before installing a new clutch......especially if the last clutch was disentegrated or overheated.Gouges in the flywheel or localized hardening of the running surface from overheating,will hinder break in of the new disc,and you may never acheive full clamping power from your new clutch.
When the clutch is engaged fully(foot off the pedal),there is no slip,thus no friction or heat and no wear generated.What causes the break-in and/or failure of clutch linings is how you APPLY the power while engaging the clutch.99% of the time you hear about people blowing their clutch,it happened when they launched or banged a gear.Thats because the abrupt,forceful engagment of the clutch puts high stresses on the linings and creates lots of heat.....just as surely as grandma's foot constantly resting on the clutch pedal as she drives.....friction creates heat and heat destroys the linings.
Most clutches require a 500 mile break in period.During this time,you should just drive normally.The more you stop and go,and shift....the smoother and better things will get because you are slipping and engaging the clutch during those actions.If you drive strictly on the highway,then the clutch break in period is going to take longer,because you are not shifting and clutching like during city driving......relative to the miles you travel.
And please turn your flywheel before installing a new clutch......especially if the last clutch was disentegrated or overheated.Gouges in the flywheel or localized hardening of the running surface from overheating,will hinder break in of the new disc,and you may never acheive full clamping power from your new clutch.
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#8
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Just drop the motor from the car and unbolted the clutch. my clutch is really dead. read my other post to see why i pulled my motor out. https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...8&page=1&pp=15
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