What is the size of the clutch line?
#1
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What is the size of the clutch line?
I'm wanting to replace my clutch line with my stainless steel one but I've run into a problem. The fitting on the metal line that connects into the rubber hose is REALLY on there. WD-40 doesn't do anything, and even the wrench just nearly rounds it out. I'm thinking of just getting a new metal line but I don't know what size thread/fitting I need to ask for at the auto parts store.
Also, say I get the right metal replacement line, do I have to bend it and stick it in the right place or can I get away with a simpler bend and route it another way to the master cylinder? (Money is tight, so I can't just go out and buy a pipe bender)
So, what size thread/fitting for the lines (what do I ask for)?
Also, say I get the right metal replacement line, do I have to bend it and stick it in the right place or can I get away with a simpler bend and route it another way to the master cylinder? (Money is tight, so I can't just go out and buy a pipe bender)
So, what size thread/fitting for the lines (what do I ask for)?
#2
I dont know about the size...but my line was being a bitch when i was trying to change it on my master cylinder. In all Honesty i used a **** load of LIQUID WRENCH and i used small VICE GRIPS. And that worked like a charm! Sorry about not knowing the size of the fitting though.
#3
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When will you guys get a clue that WD-40 is near worthless for being a rust penetrant. P B Blaster, buy some. Also, did you use a flare nut wrench, or a standard one?
I'm not trying to rag on you personally, but some basics, like proper tools and equipment not only make the job easier, they also save parts.
If your hard line is fubared, find a good used one. You won't find an off the shelf one with the correct fittings and length, unless you go oem.
I'm not trying to rag on you personally, but some basics, like proper tools and equipment not only make the job easier, they also save parts.
If your hard line is fubared, find a good used one. You won't find an off the shelf one with the correct fittings and length, unless you go oem.
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I am fully aware that WD-40 is worthless for rust penetrant, (and I know how I worded it made it seem I knew otherwise) HOWEVER it is the only thing that I had available. Basically, the same goes for Liquid Wrench and PB Blaster (although I have better luck with PB sometimes). I use metric wrenches because that's all I have now, but that thing is just stuck. A friend is offering to get his Snap-On line lock wrenches out next weekend. If anything, I'll buy a new master cylinder and new line if anything gets to the point of replacing.
#5
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Originally Posted by 85 FB
I am fully aware that WD-40 is worthless for rust penetrant, (and I know how I worded it made it seem I knew otherwise) HOWEVER it is the only thing that I had available. Basically, the same goes for Liquid Wrench and PB Blaster (although I have better luck with PB sometimes). I use metric wrenches because that's all I have now, but that thing is just stuck. A friend is offering to get his Snap-On line lock wrenches out next weekend. If anything, I'll buy a new master cylinder and new line if anything gets to the point of replacing.
i beleave i have a extra hard line laying around..well its in the parts car so its OEM you can have it.... FREEBEE if you need it
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Best thing for separating any kind of hard line is heat. I watche my friend who owns a garage get a rear brake hardline off an old Chevette with a pair of channel lock pliers and some heat.
And for you guys who don't drive on salty winter roads, you truly have no idea how impressive that is!
One caution - you can start a fire with any petroleum based product, so use some caution - i.e. clean up any and all fluid in the area.
And for you guys who don't drive on salty winter roads, you truly have no idea how impressive that is!
One caution - you can start a fire with any petroleum based product, so use some caution - i.e. clean up any and all fluid in the area.
#12
Originally Posted by trochoid
Clutch pedal will feel a little spongier perhaps. Good stock replacement or used paerts aren't that hard to find.
Anyways, I ended up just ordering the mazdatrix one yesturday, and will keep the hardline. I was surprised that they didnt provide a shipping charge until after the order went through, and it was 9 dollars, but it just got here so that was nice. Is putting teflon tape on it a bad idea? Will the brake fluid eat it up?
Also got a thread gauge today, so to answer the original question the thread size is 25tpi. Not sure what that is in metric thread pitch...
Last edited by alxpril; 12-21-16 at 12:30 AM.
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Ya, the brake fluid will eat teflon very quickly.
I also have a stock line if needed (hard line and new(er) soft line)... where in VA do you live, I'm in MD. And for flare nut wrenches, usually you can get away with using cheap ones as it's not something that is always being used and not likly to deform.
Not sure if you were meaning what size wrenches you need, the two sizes are 10mm and 17mm.
I also have a stock line if needed (hard line and new(er) soft line)... where in VA do you live, I'm in MD. And for flare nut wrenches, usually you can get away with using cheap ones as it's not something that is always being used and not likly to deform.
Not sure if you were meaning what size wrenches you need, the two sizes are 10mm and 17mm.
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Originally Posted by trochoid
The lines do not seal by the threads, it seals by the double flare on the end of the line itself. No sealing agent is needed on the threads. Anti- sieze maybe, for easier removal down the road.
As per trochoid - no teflon - it doesn't seal with the threads like a pipe fitting would.
Last edited by Whanrow; 04-14-06 at 11:00 PM.
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Originally Posted by rotor vs. piston
I also have a stock line if needed (hard line and new(er) soft line)... where in VA do you live, I'm in MD. And for flare nut wrenches, usually you can get away with using cheap ones as it's not something that is always being used and not likly to deform.
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What would cause the sponginess? More likely to expand then hard line?
Anyways, I ended up just ordering the mazdatrix one yesturday, and will keep the hardline. I was surprised that they didnt provide a shipping charge until after the order went through, and it was 9 dollars, but it just got here so that was nice. Is putting teflon tape on it a bad idea? Will the brake fluid eat it up?
Also got a thread gauge today, so to answer the original question the thread size is 25tpi. Not sure what that is in metric thread pitch...
Anyways, I ended up just ordering the mazdatrix one yesturday, and will keep the hardline. I was surprised that they didnt provide a shipping charge until after the order went through, and it was 9 dollars, but it just got here so that was nice. Is putting teflon tape on it a bad idea? Will the brake fluid eat it up?
Also got a thread gauge today, so to answer the original question the thread size is 25tpi. Not sure what that is in metric thread pitch...
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