I'm wanting to replace my clutch line with my stainless steel one but I've run into a problem. The fitting on the metal line that connects into the rubber hose is REALLY on there. WD-40 doesn't do anything, and even the wrench just nearly rounds it out. I'm thinking of just getting a new metal line but I don't know what size thread/fitting I need to ask for at the auto parts store.

Also, say I get the right metal replacement line, do I have to bend it and stick it in the right place or can I get away with a simpler bend and route it another way to the master cylinder? (Money is tight, so I can't just go out and buy a pipe bender)

So, what size thread/fitting for the lines (what do I ask for)?

 

I dont know about the size...but my line was being a bitch when i was trying to change it on my master cylinder. In all Honesty i used a **** load of LIQUID WRENCH and i used small VICE GRIPS. And that worked like a charm! Sorry about not knowing the size of the fitting though.

 

When will you guys get a clue that WD-40 is near worthless for being a rust penetrant. P B Blaster, buy some. Also, did you use a flare nut wrench, or a standard one?

I'm not trying to rag on you personally, but some basics, like proper tools and equipment not only make the job easier, they also save parts.

If your hard line is fubared, find a good used one. You won't find an off the shelf one with the correct fittings and length, unless you go oem.

 

I am fully aware that WD-40 is worthless for rust penetrant, (and I know how I worded it made it seem I knew otherwise) HOWEVER it is the only thing that I had available. Basically, the same goes for Liquid Wrench and PB Blaster (although I have better luck with PB sometimes). I use metric wrenches because that's all I have now, but that thing is just stuck. A friend is offering to get his Snap-On line lock wrenches out next weekend. If anything, I'll buy a new master cylinder and new line if anything gets to the point of replacing.

 

i beleave i have a extra hard line laying around..well its in the parts car so its OEM you can have it.... FREEBEE if you need it

 

I went to a local parts store and they have lines about the same length but a tad bit long. here is a pic of mine hand bent.

 

AdrockRx7, did you run hard line all the way from the master to the slave? If you did you will eventually have a failure due to the engine torqueing back and forth. The soft line allows for movement between the body and engine.

 

no no that is a stainless steel line too.

 

Would it be a problem if you just run flex line all the way from the master to the slave ?

 

Clutch pedal will feel a little spongier perhaps. Good stock replacement or used paerts aren't that hard to find.

 

Best thing for separating any kind of hard line is heat. I watche my friend who owns a garage get a rear brake hardline off an old Chevette with a pair of channel lock pliers and some heat.

And for you guys who don't drive on salty winter roads, you truly have no idea how impressive that is!

One caution - you can start a fire with any petroleum based product, so use some caution - i.e. clean up any and all fluid in the area.

 

What would cause the sponginess? More likely to expand then hard line?


Anyways, I ended up just ordering the mazdatrix one yesturday, and will keep the hardline. I was surprised that they didnt provide a shipping charge until after the order went through, and it was 9 dollars, but it just got here so that was nice. Is putting teflon tape on it a bad idea? Will the brake fluid eat it up?

Also got a thread gauge today, so to answer the original question the thread size is 25tpi. Not sure what that is in metric thread pitch...

 

While the soft lines are stiff, they still act like a baloon and have some give to them.

 

ok, any thoughts on the the teflon situation? The line doesnt seem to sit too tightly on the new slave cylinder..

 

The lines do not seal by the threads, it seals by the double flare on the end of the line itself. No sealing agent is needed on the threads. Anti- sieze maybe, for easier removal down the road.

 

Ya, the brake fluid will eat teflon very quickly.

I also have a stock line if needed (hard line and new(er) soft line)... where in VA do you live, I'm in MD. And for flare nut wrenches, usually you can get away with using cheap ones as it's not something that is always being used and not likly to deform.

Not sure if you were meaning what size wrenches you need, the two sizes are 10mm and 17mm.

 

Yup, I've gotten wise in my old age and virtually anything I take apart now, I put antiseize on. Its really worth it in the long run.

As per trochoid - no teflon - it doesn't seal with the threads like a pipe fitting would.

 

Northern VA. I'll probably match up a new hardline when I purchase a new slave cylinder, they're not that much. I'll bring in my new SS line to match up a new hardline so that both will connect properly.

 

you're a saint thanks