What is the S4 Intake mod?
What is the S4 Intake mod?
I read a couple of posts that said something about doing the "S4 Intake" mod on our FBs.
What is the mod? just getting the S4 intake and swapping it out with ours? I am assuming it is specifically for the SE models since it is FI.
TIA
What is the mod? just getting the S4 intake and swapping it out with ours? I am assuming it is specifically for the SE models since it is FI.
TIA
Keep in mind that doing the S4 intake only may not qualify/pass emissions needed to obtain a CARB sticker. That being said, you will need to block/plug the injectors holes in the secondary fuel rail and run the SE injectors in stock form in the primary fuel rail. I don't recall if the LIM mounting bolt holes to the block need modifying or not.
Looks like DF beat me to it. He's the man to get the straight facts from.
Looks like DF beat me to it. He's the man to get the straight facts from.
Keep in mind that doing the S4 intake only may not qualify/pass emissions needed to obtain a CARB sticker. That being said, you will need to block/plug the injectors holes in the secondary fuel rail and run the SE injectors in stock form in the primary fuel rail. I don't recall if the LIM mounting bolt holes to the block need modifying or not.
Looks like DF beat me to it. He's the man to get the straight facts from.
Looks like DF beat me to it. He's the man to get the straight facts from.
Truth be told, not really. Especially if you have to deal with smogging.
If you really want more power on a GSL-SE, withOUT Forced Induction:
1) Exhaust First
2) Ignition
3) Intake (cone filter, etc)
4) Stand Alone ECU (Mega-Squirt/Haltech/AEM, etc) + Tuning
5) S5 Intake. (Plus Tuning)
That should be the economical road of choice, in that order.
Other people might disagree, but this is for bang for the buck.
#1 has the most *bang*.
Liteweight Flywheel, and Taller Gears are options that don't
add horsepower, but can move the powerband and acceleration
numbers as well.
If you really want more power on a GSL-SE, withOUT Forced Induction:
1) Exhaust First
2) Ignition
3) Intake (cone filter, etc)
4) Stand Alone ECU (Mega-Squirt/Haltech/AEM, etc) + Tuning
5) S5 Intake. (Plus Tuning)
That should be the economical road of choice, in that order.
Other people might disagree, but this is for bang for the buck.
#1 has the most *bang*.
Liteweight Flywheel, and Taller Gears are options that don't
add horsepower, but can move the powerband and acceleration
numbers as well.
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My gslse has the S4 uim, lim, and tb and I am happy with it.
Is it really worth it? Well if you have to be smogged or get emissions testing then I would say don't. Also the only thing I don't like is that I did the S4 TB mod as well and well the car when cold will not idle until about 2-3 mins of warm up time.
But other than that my car will run for a NA! Now you can only expect a gain of 5-15 Hp depending on how you do the mod.
I have several other mods so I can't say this helped it much as the motor was built with a SP at the same time.
Let me find some pictures.
Chad
Is it really worth it? Well if you have to be smogged or get emissions testing then I would say don't. Also the only thing I don't like is that I did the S4 TB mod as well and well the car when cold will not idle until about 2-3 mins of warm up time.
But other than that my car will run for a NA! Now you can only expect a gain of 5-15 Hp depending on how you do the mod.
I have several other mods so I can't say this helped it much as the motor was built with a SP at the same time.
Let me find some pictures.
Chad
Truth be told, not really. Especially if you have to deal with smogging.
If you really want more power on a GSL-SE, withOUT Forced Induction:
1) Exhaust First
2) Ignition
3) Intake (cone filter, etc)
4) Stand Alone ECU (Mega-Squirt/Haltech/AEM, etc) + Tuning
5) S5 Intake. (Plus Tuning)
That should be the economical road of choice, in that order.
Other people might disagree, but this is for bang for the buck.
#1 has the most *bang*.
Liteweight Flywheel, and Taller Gears are options that don't
add horsepower, but can move the powerband and acceleration
numbers as well.
If you really want more power on a GSL-SE, withOUT Forced Induction:
1) Exhaust First
2) Ignition
3) Intake (cone filter, etc)
4) Stand Alone ECU (Mega-Squirt/Haltech/AEM, etc) + Tuning
5) S5 Intake. (Plus Tuning)
That should be the economical road of choice, in that order.
Other people might disagree, but this is for bang for the buck.
#1 has the most *bang*.
Liteweight Flywheel, and Taller Gears are options that don't
add horsepower, but can move the powerband and acceleration
numbers as well.
Yep..thanks for the info that all makes sense to me. I will be upgrading the exh shortly and I guess deal with ignition after. The intake is easy and can be done in a day.
thanks everyone for the feedback.
Only when it is cold it will not idle. I have to hold the pedal for 2-3 mins then after that she is ok. After the first start in the morning she is good for the whole day.
You could probably fix a lot of that cold idle issue by adjusting the thermalwax plunger a bit.Its responsible for setting the cold/high idle mechanically,so its pretty easy to tinker with.
The BAC is really just for fine tuning the idle when PS and AC loads come into play.I dont know what possesed Mazda to have some many independant idle control systems on the 2nd gen engines.Im pretty sure the N/A's are like the turbo engines, some TII's have 5 or 6 different systems that control idle.....
BAC,idle screw,thermalwax,AWS,ASV,variable resistor......why cant they just use a simple idle control solenoid like everyone else!?
The BAC is really just for fine tuning the idle when PS and AC loads come into play.I dont know what possesed Mazda to have some many independant idle control systems on the 2nd gen engines.Im pretty sure the N/A's are like the turbo engines, some TII's have 5 or 6 different systems that control idle.....
BAC,idle screw,thermalwax,AWS,ASV,variable resistor......why cant they just use a simple idle control solenoid like everyone else!?
Swap vac questions
im not tyring to haigh jack im just trying to get all the info on one thread.i did this a couple of weeks ago and it wasnt that hard. i am using the og fuel system and i used a flex hose from pepboys to go from the AFM to the intake inlet the most time consuming thing was cleaning bc my 17 gallon air compressor cant handle my die grinder.
first i will say that is a very clean engine bay and looks awesome!
now i must ask a couple of things if you dont mind
1 are you using vac advance if you are where are you hooked up at, i see a "T" but i dont see where it goes
2 where are you hooked up at for you FPR from the fuel rail where does it go?
3 last what other ports are you using and for what on the intake mani.
i can post pics of mine to show you how mine is set up tell me if everything is right if you dont mind.
first i will say that is a very clean engine bay and looks awesome!
now i must ask a couple of things if you dont mind
1 are you using vac advance if you are where are you hooked up at, i see a "T" but i dont see where it goes
2 where are you hooked up at for you FPR from the fuel rail where does it go?
3 last what other ports are you using and for what on the intake mani.
i can post pics of mine to show you how mine is set up tell me if everything is right if you dont mind.
S4 intake pics
first i just want to say that in my own defense that i am still working on getting my engien bay cleaned right now im trying to get everything running right 1st.
with that said here are my pics
in the first pic the two on th efire wall side goes to the purge valve and the hose on the water pump side goes to the oil injector spider thingy
and in the second pic the FPR goes to the nipple the is next to the right angled nipple.
with that said here are my pics
in the first pic the two on th efire wall side goes to the purge valve and the hose on the water pump side goes to the oil injector spider thingy
and in the second pic the FPR goes to the nipple the is next to the right angled nipple.
The S4 intake does not cover the lower ports the stock SE lower manafold covers in the middle. For the S4 manafold they switched from middle to the outside of the manafold. The S5 intake covers these as they are the same shape as the SE.

This is a picture of a SE gasket over a S4 manafold. If you notice on bottom of the gasket the S4 LIM stops short from covering the lower port for the SE. I guess there are two options. Fill in the SE block with JB Weld or TIG weld a nice peice of aluminum onto the S4 LIM to make up the difference.
How hard is this to do, what do you need done to have this work, cuase my GSL-SE has all sorts of wacked idles, and crap, right now it won't even stay running, and I'm sick of fussing with all the crappy emissions stuff that I don't give a crap about cuase we don't have emissions checks up here.


