What pumpkin will fit my 84 gsl-se?
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What pumpkin will fit my 84 gsl-se?
Ok I tried searching here but everything was about putting the gsl-se lsd into another first gen. What I'm wondering is if there is another lsd that is stronger and can take 300+ hp. I have completed my tII swap into mine but I broke the axle. I have heard that you can take one from the early miata's called a kaaz? i think, or taking the 3rd member from a fox body stang. Has anyone heard about any of these? Can you use the original driveshaft or does one need to be custom made? Any help would be great.
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
#4
FB+FC=F-ME
If you broke an axle,how is a stronger 3rd member gonna help?
You can get Moser axles for the stock 1st gen rearend.The 3rd member should be able to handle a TII swap.Mine has been working just fine for almost 5 years now,daily driven.Its seen some track use and I run 245's out back,so theres plenty of hookup.
Are you beating on it?!
You can get Moser axles for the stock 1st gen rearend.The 3rd member should be able to handle a TII swap.Mine has been working just fine for almost 5 years now,daily driven.Its seen some track use and I run 245's out back,so theres plenty of hookup.
Are you beating on it?!
#5
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Originally Posted by steve84GS TII
If you broke an axle,how is a stronger 3rd member gonna help?
i have "heard" that Series 2 rearends hold up better because the housing is not as flimsy as the Series 3 unit, and the lack of deflection makes for less axle breakage. "Some" people who have done this reported replacing the axle shafts every X number of miles as preventative maintenance.
Or you could just put a backplate on your Series 3 housing and be done with it, just make sure that the housing doesn't get warped. Then you get a beefy housing and larger axles.
Bear in mind: The Series 3 axle diameter is actually larger than the Turbo II halfshafts. The problem is not the axles, and it's definitely not the differential.
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Originally Posted by peejay
Exactly.
i have "heard" that Series 2 rearends hold up better because the housing is not as flimsy as the Series 3 unit, and the lack of deflection makes for less axle breakage. "Some" people who have done this reported replacing the axle shafts every X number of miles as preventative maintenance.
Or you could just put a backplate on your Series 3 housing and be done with it, just make sure that the housing doesn't get warped. Then you get a beefy housing and larger axles.
Bear in mind: The Series 3 axle diameter is actually larger than the Turbo II halfshafts. The problem is not the axles, and it's definitely not the differential.
i have "heard" that Series 2 rearends hold up better because the housing is not as flimsy as the Series 3 unit, and the lack of deflection makes for less axle breakage. "Some" people who have done this reported replacing the axle shafts every X number of miles as preventative maintenance.
Or you could just put a backplate on your Series 3 housing and be done with it, just make sure that the housing doesn't get warped. Then you get a beefy housing and larger axles.
Bear in mind: The Series 3 axle diameter is actually larger than the Turbo II halfshafts. The problem is not the axles, and it's definitely not the differential.
edit: it all would be going into 85 SE rear end
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kaaz is a brand of lsd's that are a beefier version of the standard clutch and plate style that you already have. i was gonna get one for my FD but the price was too much when i could get one out of a 2nd gen for alot cheaper and not having to worry about breaking the stock TORSEN unit.
and THAT is what you may be referring to out of the miate. i have one and am putting it in my GSL-SE at some piont in time. it will not help you though because without modifications, you will LOSE around 8-10mm of spline contact. i dont plan on doing anything outlandish with my SE so im not worried about it as some guys have even raced with the setup as is with no problems. i just wanted a posi that doesnt wear out and the torsen is it.
and THAT is what you may be referring to out of the miate. i have one and am putting it in my GSL-SE at some piont in time. it will not help you though because without modifications, you will LOSE around 8-10mm of spline contact. i dont plan on doing anything outlandish with my SE so im not worried about it as some guys have even raced with the setup as is with no problems. i just wanted a posi that doesnt wear out and the torsen is it.
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Originally Posted by steve84GS TII
If you broke an axle,how is a stronger 3rd member gonna help?
#10
FB+FC=F-ME
Originally Posted by 3rd and final 7
so what your saying that even stronger axles wouldnt be all that much better? i was thinking about getting the axles from respeed and going with a 5 lug and big brake kit and stonger axles pretty much all in one? not meaning to high jack sorry!
It may be nice to be able to drive with reckless abandon,but that usually means overbuilding everything to the point that its either too heavy, or too expensive.If your gonna triple the HP of any car,youd better learn to respect the weak points and adjust your driving habits to suit....thats why Ive yet to break,twist or bend my stock 100K mile old SE rearend/axles.I did have to pull it once,for a loud pinion bearing,but that was a matter of milage and age,not driving habits.
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Originally Posted by steve84GS TII
Anything can be broken, if you try hard enough.Its not a matter of sheer HP or axle strength....its all about traction and torque APPLICATION.
It may be nice to be able to drive with reckless abandon,but that usually means overbuilding everything to the point that its either too heavy, or too expensive.If your gonna triple the HP of any car,youd better learn to respect the weak points and adjust your driving habits to suit....thats why Ive yet to break,twist or bend my stock 100K mile old SE rearend/axles.I did have to pull it once,for a loud pinion bearing,but that was a matter of milage and age,not driving habits.
It may be nice to be able to drive with reckless abandon,but that usually means overbuilding everything to the point that its either too heavy, or too expensive.If your gonna triple the HP of any car,youd better learn to respect the weak points and adjust your driving habits to suit....thats why Ive yet to break,twist or bend my stock 100K mile old SE rearend/axles.I did have to pull it once,for a loud pinion bearing,but that was a matter of milage and age,not driving habits.
ok i pretty much understand now!
Peejay was also said something aqbout putting a plate on the rear of the pumpkin? would that stiffin that up at all and who as in mechanics do that kind of work?
#12
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Peejay, all:
1. Will any of the Turbo 3rd members fit in a 1st gen rear axle housing? The ring gear is an 8" vs. the FB 7", and the spline count is 28 vs. FB GSL-SE 26. Looks like it would make for a stronger setup.
2. Can you elaborate on the rear axle bracing? Are we guarding against fore-aft flex where the tubes join the center section?
1. Will any of the Turbo 3rd members fit in a 1st gen rear axle housing? The ring gear is an 8" vs. the FB 7", and the spline count is 28 vs. FB GSL-SE 26. Looks like it would make for a stronger setup.
2. Can you elaborate on the rear axle bracing? Are we guarding against fore-aft flex where the tubes join the center section?
#13
FB+FC=F-ME
The FC 3rd member is nothing like the 1st gen.Its an extended unit with 3 pinion bearings and support brackets for the IRS.Some of the LSD guts might be interchangable with the 84-85's, but its pretty much a different unit.
The fabricated sheetmetal rearend housings are quite strong.Since they are one welded unit and they taper down smoothly from the housing to the tube,they can take a lot of torque.
The "press and weld" cast iron/steel tube style axles (Dana Spicer) have a tendency to twist at the axle tube junction and they are heavy for their strength rating,because of all the cast iron.Ive twisted a couple Dana44 housings under my Samurai with only modest HP and gear reduction.My stock 1st gen rearend has taken years and years of 300HP driving without so much as one problem,except for the noisy pinion bearing I changed out.
Like I said before......you planning on beating it? :-)
The fabricated sheetmetal rearend housings are quite strong.Since they are one welded unit and they taper down smoothly from the housing to the tube,they can take a lot of torque.
The "press and weld" cast iron/steel tube style axles (Dana Spicer) have a tendency to twist at the axle tube junction and they are heavy for their strength rating,because of all the cast iron.Ive twisted a couple Dana44 housings under my Samurai with only modest HP and gear reduction.My stock 1st gen rearend has taken years and years of 300HP driving without so much as one problem,except for the noisy pinion bearing I changed out.
Like I said before......you planning on beating it? :-)
#14
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And yes -- I know that anything can be broken. But if you start out with a stronger setup, you're less likely to break it.
#15
FB+FC=F-ME
LSD parts.....as in the internal discs and torque plates,not the ring,pinion or carrier.
No chance the pinion from the 2nd gen is gonna fit,the thing is over a foot long with 3 bearings.
The ring is bigger,so it wont bolt to the carrier,nor is it likely to fit in the housing anyways.
Besides all that,the weak link in the 1st gen housings tends to be the axle shafts anyways.The ring and pinion are strong,heres mine after years and years of high HP driving.......
Creativity and custom fabrication are applaudable,but why re-invent the wheel and try to make a crazy hybrid that no one has made before,and might not even be possible?If you dont want to risk even the possibility of a rearend failure,then save the hassel and just install a Ford 8.8" and be done with it.Plenty of guys are taking that route,as we speak.
Stock 1st gen rearends are strong,I and plenty of others have proven that.There will always be people that can pop them with stock,101HP 12A engines and plenty of abuse and neglect,but that doesnt mean they are weak or unreliable......just that certain people are tools, and should be shot for beating up on a 25 year old car that has the original rearend oil in it!
No chance the pinion from the 2nd gen is gonna fit,the thing is over a foot long with 3 bearings.
The ring is bigger,so it wont bolt to the carrier,nor is it likely to fit in the housing anyways.
Besides all that,the weak link in the 1st gen housings tends to be the axle shafts anyways.The ring and pinion are strong,heres mine after years and years of high HP driving.......
Creativity and custom fabrication are applaudable,but why re-invent the wheel and try to make a crazy hybrid that no one has made before,and might not even be possible?If you dont want to risk even the possibility of a rearend failure,then save the hassel and just install a Ford 8.8" and be done with it.Plenty of guys are taking that route,as we speak.
Stock 1st gen rearends are strong,I and plenty of others have proven that.There will always be people that can pop them with stock,101HP 12A engines and plenty of abuse and neglect,but that doesnt mean they are weak or unreliable......just that certain people are tools, and should be shot for beating up on a 25 year old car that has the original rearend oil in it!