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I have no idea what this part is this, The bushing is gone ( if it ever had any) and it rattles.Im guessing its an idler arm, but im not sure I just need the name so I can replace is bushing, it looks easy enough as it doesn't seem to bear any weight.
That is the idler arm,replacement bushings are available from Mazda dealers,Mazdatrix ,Atkins Rotary. Recommending upgrading to a Moog idler,stout part,greaseable and will never wear out. K9369 is Moog # available at Rock Auto and other online stores.
Worthwhile upgrade,being your current idler arm is rattling,this will make your steering much tighter.
That is the idler arm,replacement bushings are available from Mazda dealers,Mazdatrix ,Atkins Rotary. Recommending upgrading to a Moog idler,stout part,greaseable and will never wear out. K9369 is Moog # available at Rock Auto and other online stores.
Worthwhile upgrade,being your current idler arm is rattling,this will make your steering much tighter.
That is the idler arm,replacement bushings are available from Mazda dealers,Mazdatrix ,Atkins Rotary. Recommending upgrading to a Moog idler,stout part,greaseable and will never wear out. K9369 is Moog # available at Rock Auto and other online stores.
Worthwhile upgrade,being your current idler arm is rattling,this will make your steering much tighter.
Funny, i was about to ask if moog parts were any good. Since im also thinking of replacing the outer tie rods
For now I think il go with the bushing and see if the rattling disappears. I'll upgrade it when I upgrade the suspension with the racing beat one!
Edit.Is it safe to buy said a part from Amazon? Iv been reading some Moog parts are made in China and are simply MOOG engineered?
All Moog parts are well made,on our cars last forever,greasable... Wasn't aware Racing Beat offered a replacement idler arm? For the cost of replacement bushings + shipping,you're over a 1/3 of cost of Moog unit.
If you're keeping the car,save your pennies...one & done. They're worth every penny.
Atkins Rotary lists oe bushing for 5.25..x2=10.50+7.95 shipping =18.45. 18.45x3=55.35.
Just trying to help...
I was just joking, Wasnt trying to be a dick or anything, sorry if it came out that way. I ended up ordering the part from Amazon! I'l take pics once I install it. Thank you all!
All good,no offense taken. Once bolted in place,grease both fittings,idler assly has only assembly lubricant in it out of the box.
That Amazon price one of the best iv'e seen.
All good,no offense taken. Once bolted in place,grease both fittings,idler assly has only assembly lubricant in it out of the box.
That Amazon price one of the best iv'e seen.
What type of grease would you recommend? I only have bearing grease laying around from when I changed the breaks on the car.
The idler arm will come with two "zerk" fittings that you'll install and will need to be greased with a grease gun. The gun accepts bulk grease or you can buy cartridges that slip into the gun.
They're not expensive,any auto parts store sells them,grease cartridges too. Generic bearing grease is sufficient. Some pics.
Last edited by GSLSEforme; Jul 22, 2017 at 03:02 PM.
The idler arm will come with two "zerk" fittings that you'll install and will need to be greased with a grease gun. The gun accepts bulk grease or you can buy cartridges that slip into the gun.
They're not expensive,any auto parts store sells them,grease cartridges too. Generic bearing grease is sufficient. Some pics.
The part came in the mail today? Is it normal for it to be incredibly stiff? ( pre grease and installation) I can't seem to turn the part with my hands, im not incredibly strong but im not exactly anorexic either. The arm has a huge bolt at the top, do I need to loosen it or is that a no no ?
So I started removing the stock arm, aside from being incredibly hard to remove, I managed to get the two bolts off, including the catsle nut with pin. I can't get the bottom bolt off ( the one wit the castle nut) . Sigh.
Do I need a pitman arm remover or a simple pickle fork ?
Also, where does the plastic cap go? in between the arm and the area, it bolts into? does it need lubrication?
The part came in the mail today? Is it normal for it to be incredibly stiff? ( pre grease and installation) I can't seem to turn the part with my hands, im not incredibly strong but im not exactly anorexic either. The arm has a huge bolt at the top, do I need to loosen it or is that a no no ?
Do NOT loosen any hardware on the new arm. It will be stiff,has no grease in it other than assembly lube. Grease it (both fittings ) after installation. It will take at least several hundred miles for it to wear in and loosen up some-this is normal. Grease til grease begins to seep out of grease boots.
Last edited by GSLSEforme; Jul 26, 2017 at 07:04 AM.
So I started removing the stock arm, aside from being incredibly hard to remove, I managed to get the two bolts off, including the catsle nut with pin. I can't get the bottom bolt off ( the one wit the castle nut) . Sigh.
Do I need a pitman arm remover or a simple pickle fork ?
Also, where does the plastic cap go? in between the arm and the area, it bolts into? does it need lubrication?
Reinstall all hardware that holds oe pitman arm to frame rail,remove the cotter pin and nut where idler arm attaches to centerlink. Use pickle fork to separate centerlink/idler arm. You're reattaching the idler arm to frame basically to hold it there while using the pickle fork to separate idler from centerlink-you'll see what i'm talking about when you start on it. Use a big hammer on pickle fork-may need to turn steering to get centerlink at a good angle to separate idler.
Take a pic and post of plastic cap you're talking about,possible thread protector for arm in packaging. I can think of the grease boot you have to install on the taper of idler arm before you connect it to centerlink. Tip: tighten nut on idler arm at centerlink til quite snug. Try to line up slots in castellated nut with hole in idler arm taper as you tighten, if not exactly lined up,tighten further til does line up and cotter pin can be installed-do not loosen nut to line up slot/hole.
Reinstall all hardware that holds oe pitman arm to frame rail,remove the cotter pin and nut where idler arm attaches to centerlink. Use pickle fork to separate centerlink/idler arm. You're reattaching the idler arm to frame basically to hold it there while using the pickle fork to separate idler from centerlink-you'll see what i'm talking about when you start on it. Use a big hammer on pickle fork-may need to turn steering to get centerlink at a good angle to separate idler.
Take a pic and post of plastic cap you're talking about,possible thread protector for arm in packaging. I can think of the grease boot you have to install on the taper of idler arm before you connect it to centerlink. Tip: tighten nut on idler arm at centerlink til quite snug. Try to line up slots in castellated nut with hole in idler arm taper as you tighten, if not exactly lined up,tighten further til does line up and cotter pin can be installed-do not loosen nut to line up slot/hole.
I tried using so many thinsg to get the damn arm to seperate yesterday. I cant get around that damn pickle fork ! Il take a picture of the little plastic cap too . Off to Harbor frieght for a cheapo pickle fork
"I can't get around that damn pickle fork" Need to use picklefork,this is one of those situations where nothing else is suitable. Keep in mind those parts have been together for 30+years.
Regarding the picklefork,there are two sizes..larger is to separate ball joints and the like. The smaller one is for steering linkage,you're looking for the smaller one. Will post some pics of different sizes. What you see here are used in an air hammer,but the business end is the same
Last edited by GSLSEforme; Jul 26, 2017 at 04:00 PM.
Ok got it off ( after a good 30 mins of cursing, a few cuts and mosquito bites) now about the plastic cap/ bushing . does it go here
Position A here or..
where
Goes on as you have it in 1st pic- position A. This is the boot that seals out weather,dirt,etc. Bolt arm loosely to frame,put grease boot on as you have it there,insert tapered stud into center link. Will require a push to get nut started,as you tighten nut,boot will mushroom and cover the ball joint section of idler arm. Finish by tightening idler arm bolts to frame. Install cotter pin,grease fittings and grease til seeps out of edge of boots.
Finished installing it and took it for a small drive, the steering feels rock solid ( and heavier), but most importantly, no more rattling! Also, the car no longer drifts to the right meaning I don't need new tie rods! Thank you GSLSEforme ! I take pictures of it tomorrow.
I also need to clean under the car, is full of oil, grease, and gunk by the oil pan/ tranny. Then I can inspect to see if anythings leaking.
