From what i hear, with rb exhaust, cold air induction, removed air pump and ac, with direct fire and 2nd gen coils and with a Holley carb and RB intake on my 13b 6 port i could be making about 180 hp at the wheels. If this is true or not i dont really care. But lets say it is. Now if i ran all those mods, except the carb and intake. But instead used a late model 2nd gen upper and lower intake manifolds and kept my current fuel injectors. Could i hope to come close to that amount of hp. Id really like to stick with FI.

 

More like closer to 180 at the flywheel.. even closer to 170 depending upon the engine.
An early S4 FC intake manifold would work with the stock SE EGI stuff... Im in the process of doing that before I get enough $$ to do:
A full S5 engine and intake swap with active adjustable VDI, S4 ECU and injection. Some S5 ITS racecars put down around 190 RWHP ..Id love that!

 

well is a 2nd gen Fuel injection gonna jump me up about the same amount as a holley carb rb setup?

 

I find that hard to believe, a non-ported N/A putting down 190 at the rear wheels. My S5 TurboII put down 193 at the rear wheels on a mustang dyno @ 5.5 lbs, boost, non-ported (unless the guy in Japan ported it, it was a J-Spec). And ran 13.75 @ 104.8 in the 1/4 mile. There is no car anyone's ever seen that's been THAT quick at that low boost with just a cone filter and an exhaust. I very very very much doubt a S5 N/A could put that much down without some serious prep work (like somehow handling 10,000 RPM or so and making power there too).

 

From what gauge did you see only 5.5 lbs of boost? Where was it tapped into?

 

wow, are u all half retarted. I said who gives a **** if its not gonna lay down 180 hp, but if that setup did, what could i expect from a 2nd gen Fuel injection intake from like a 90's model. No other bullshit about what it would really make OK!!!

 

A mechanical aftermarket gauge tapped off the intake manifold (strangely enough the wastegate was also sprung at 5.5 psi and the DSV wasn't opening, therefore it makes sense that it only reached 5.5 psi unless I was going uphill for a LONG time in 5th gear, in which case it hit 6 or 6.5 once in a while.

 

Ahem, calm down there big boy. ok?

 

 

Well sorry, im just tired of every thread i post getting turned into a war about what is what and who knows best. And then theres when my threads jsut get turned into im glad it worked out. Its so annoying

 

Well, the carb is the thing that's giving most of the horsepower. You will need a standalone or piggyback ecu to get more horsepower from your stock or second gen intake.

 

Understandable. I just dont want you to add fuel to teh fire.

 

how much do decent, but not top of the line piggyback or standalone ecus cost and how hard would they be to install and tune myself. I like to do all my work myself

 

it wouldnt be your work if you wernt doing it urself :P

 

yep

 

An efi will generally give some 10% more power than a stock Nikki set-up. both with performance exhaust systems. The Holley will give some 10% more power than a stock Nikki. Thus, sticking to efi will result in little difference to hp but will give you more power low down and a flatter torque curve.

It is the average power in your usual rev range that is important not the peak horsepower So all other things being equal, I suggest sticking to efi.

 

k thanks

 

Bigjim, unlike everyone else who just seems to be talking out of their ***, I actually ran a S5 N/A setup for a while. However, I dumped it in favor of carb. And belive be the car has MUCH more guts now that the carb is on it.

Heres what I'd reccommend you do. First of all forget the holley carb. IMHO weber is deffinately the way to go. My buddy has a Holley setup on his FC, and he swears every day that ge wishes he had gone with a weber. Get a 48mm DCOE or a 48IDA. You can pick these up from rotary shack. The weber makes more HP all around except for above 7500RPM. You get more useable horsepower with the weber.

Run full racing beat exhaust, remove air pump, power steering, A/C, use DLIDFIS instead of the second gen coils.

Plus one MAJOR advantage to the weber carb is it still allows your 6 ports to work. With the holley setup, the sleeves must be removed.

I used to be hell bent on using FI, but believe it or not the car starts faster with the weber. Sounds cooler too. FYI the carb setup racingbeat sells, is considered an intake UPGRADE over the stock FI.

 

so how much would the weber carb and intake that will let meuse my ports cost me? I wouldnt mind a used one since i am quite poor

 

The carb that has allready been pretuned by rotaryshack is like 500 bucks or so. The manifold is like 150. Basically the way teh manifold works is it bolts on to your stock lower manifold, allowing you to still use your 6 ports.

 

ahh k. I guess ill start saving

 

EFI won't give more peak power. It will however give a better curve due to the ability to tune it across the whole band more easily.

 

hornbm- I agree if going carby then Weber rather than Holley is better for all round performance.

The prices for the Weber 48IDA at Rotary Shack are
Carb $750, 6port manifold $350. a total some twice your thoughts so Big Jim had better start saving sooner!

On top of the carb cost, there are other expenses in changing from efi which have to be considered. Its not a straight swap. At least the costs and time spent tuning are not as bad as going the other way round, carb to efi.