What to do with a GSL-SE 13b with no rotors?
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What to do with a GSL-SE 13b with no rotors?
I have a completely disassembled GSL-SE engine that's been sitting on a shelf in my shed for about 6 years. It blew an apex seal, then the previous owner decided to use the rotors for an art project instead of rebuilding it.
What I still have is two housings, three irons, an eccentric shaft that's been sitting on it's side for 6 years, a box of bolts with a counter weight and that's it. No oil pan, front cover or engine mount brace. Sold those a few years ago.
I now have an 82 GSL that I daily drive. I'd love to put a 13b in, but I don't know if this is the right engine to start with. I would want to rebuild/port any 13b I wound up with. Is there any advantage to using what I have versus a fresh start?
What I still have is two housings, three irons, an eccentric shaft that's been sitting on it's side for 6 years, a box of bolts with a counter weight and that's it. No oil pan, front cover or engine mount brace. Sold those a few years ago.
I now have an 82 GSL that I daily drive. I'd love to put a 13b in, but I don't know if this is the right engine to start with. I would want to rebuild/port any 13b I wound up with. Is there any advantage to using what I have versus a fresh start?
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Depending what route u plan on going as far as keeping it street or race,carb or turbo.6 port is a good engine to port & get a nice weber carb set up.u will have plenty of power to have fun on the street.go with s5 n.a rotors.they r high compression.pertfect for carb application.
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you have 2 choices!
1. use the 12A irons, gsl-se rotor housings, and your choice of rotating assembly* and do a 4 port
2. like #1, but use the gsl-se center, and use EFI.
*the 89-91 NA rotating assembly is the best, but the S4 one is fine
1. use the 12A irons, gsl-se rotor housings, and your choice of rotating assembly* and do a 4 port
2. like #1, but use the gsl-se center, and use EFI.
*the 89-91 NA rotating assembly is the best, but the S4 one is fine
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premix, for f's sake
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Not realistically. The se housings have the coolant orings grooves machined into them, while s4 and later rx7 13b's have those grooves machined into the side plates. Combine the 2 and u will have an oring seating against another oring = leaks everywhere. For the most part,without some ingenuity and custom fabrication/modification the housings and irons need to be of the same era. IE all pre 86 housing and irons will work together, and all 86 and newer housings and irons work together
#7
Thanks for the reply stink. I forgot about the o-ring grooves in the pre-86 housings. I have an se jdm block that has been sitting for some time now. i will be breaking it down shortly. If any of the parts/rotors are in good condition, I'll let you know. I will not be using any of them.
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My goal would be to keep my 12a, factory carb and exhaust manifold/good cat in storage for the bi-annual smog here in California. I'm lucky enough to have a GSL that passes smog pretty easily. Is there a reason not to use the GSL-SE irons and housings + S5 NA rotating assembly? I assume I would need a GSL-SE front cover and oil pan again.
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Once u swap in a 13b,ur chances of passing smog will be very slim to none unless u do a full fc efi swap w all emmisions attached & get it bar ref'd,keeping it 12a will be ur best bet,just add catback exh.
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My plan was to keep the 12a in storage, and swap it back in come smog time.
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My goal would be to keep my 12a, factory carb and exhaust manifold/good cat in storage for the bi-annual smog here in California. I'm lucky enough to have a GSL that passes smog pretty easily. Is there a reason not to use the GSL-SE irons and housings + S5 NA rotating assembly? I assume I would need a GSL-SE front cover and oil pan again.
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Be even sweeter to find a 12a 6 port carb intake from europe....
Leave the rats next on an functional...
Go the extra length and grind off the 13b stamping and just jbweld to fab 12a stampings.
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