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weird noise emitting from the brakes (yes i searched)

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Old 09-11-06, 12:33 PM
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weird noise emitting from the brakes (yes i searched)

ive got an update in my project status...but its a secret. i will tell you, but only if you help me(actually as soon as i get around to taking some pics) so i was driving my car, and it was making a noise from th passenger side rear caliper(gsl). like thud thud thud. and it would get worse as i used the brakes, and i could feel the pulsating in the brake pedal, but if i got on the brakes hard, it was gone.(still a little pulsating in the pedal) and it slowly went away after driving it for a while.

me thinks it is a warped rotor, but here comes the weird part, my buddy said that it looked like the wheel was almost wobbling at slow speeds. were not sure, it looked fine on the highway, but at low speeds it looks like the wheel may be wobbling.
thanks in advance!
Old 09-11-06, 12:38 PM
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Sounds like a slightly bent axle.
Old 09-11-06, 12:40 PM
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Also, check the tire REALLY good. sometimes even a brand new tire can have a poor order defect.
Old 09-11-06, 12:42 PM
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i was afraid that it might be the axle

but the wierd thing is i drove the car almost 900 miles yesterday, and the problem almost went away. so that indicates that its not the axle

Last edited by perfect_circle; 09-11-06 at 12:48 PM.
Old 09-11-06, 01:30 PM
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you might wanna check that the wheel is on securely. One time after my friend and i were doing some work, my friend didnt put one of the wheels back on tight enough (correct ft. lbs) and i was driving along the wheel was going thump thump thump, just like you said, and the wheel just came off while i was driving. (DONT WORRY, this was on my old junky accord, not the 7) anyways you might wanna at least check that out.
Old 09-11-06, 01:37 PM
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i will check, but mine was most noticable when i got on the brakes lightly, but when i stopped quickly, i could only feel the pulsing, , and i couldnt here anything.
Old 09-11-06, 03:29 PM
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If the axle isn't bent and its not a loose wheel it could be some of the bolts that fasten the flange that holds the axles in are loose or the wheel bearing collar is coming loose behind the bearing and the axle is sliping back and forth. These would both settle down some under speed and with the brakes applied hard the calibers pull the axle back into place. Anyway, its just a guess, you probably need to take that side apart to really tell. Check the wheel bolts and the rotor first then proceed to pull the axle if they check out ok. Good luck and keep us posted.
Old 09-11-06, 03:39 PM
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im planned on it, i just wanted to see if you guys could help me pin point it. i probably wont get to wok on it for a few days.
Old 09-11-06, 03:50 PM
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Theory #1: Rotor gets hot, you hold foot on brake, pad material transfers to rotor making it pulse like a warped rotor.
Cure: Go through a bedding cycle; Drive up to 80 or so (in safe environment) and brake hard (at the edge of lockup, but again be safe), release pedal before you come to a complete stop. Repeat several times. This should clear the rotor of any pad material.

Theory #2: Rotor is grooved. This should be obvious with a visual inspection.
Cure: Have rotors turned or replaced.

As far as a bent axle goes, jack up the rear and let it idle in 1st gear (of course, use all appropriate safety measures). Watch wheel rotating.

My personal guess would be the pad material transfer. If the rotor gets hot, and you hold the pedal down (or worse, set the parking brake) then the pad material will bond to the rotor. Then on braking, everytime the pad goes over that spot you will feel it. I just went through this with my Audi this spring (what I get for letting wife drive it I guess). The re-bedding process saved me hundreds of dollars for a rotor replacement.

If you doubt me (as many have in the past on this argument) then read this article, which in my opinion should be required reading for any driver: http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml

If you type "warped rotor" into google, this is at the top of the list of returns. A very good source of information. Hope this helps.

BTW, there is an autocross in Muskegon this Saturday. Can you make it?
Old 09-11-06, 03:54 PM
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i trust you. what all do i need to compete in an autocross? id love to go.

edit: i want to avoid break fade while doing this correct?

Last edited by perfect_circle; 09-11-06 at 03:57 PM.
Old 09-11-06, 04:06 PM
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Don't worry about brake fade while bedding the pads. To compete in autocross, your car needs to pass tech which basically means:

Not dripping fluids, brake resevoir full, firm brake pedal, decent tires, battery secured (clamped down). Other than that, you pay your $20 entry fee and borrow a helmet and you're set. Don't do what I did and try to wait until your car is "perfect" before starting. I wasted years that way and now I'm kicking myself.

You can get more info on the event here: http://www.myautoevents.com/pls/mae/...86941711617473

If you can make it, you can meet me at my place and we'll drive the rest of the way together. There may be a group of us heading over. Hopefully you can make it, that would be cool. See ya!
Old 09-11-06, 04:21 PM
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I remember posting that link a while ago, a well worth read for anyone curious about brakes. It also says in there to upgrade to a semi-metallic pad from an organic to clean it up. its a better pad anyways
Old 09-11-06, 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Kentetsu
Theory #1: Rotor gets hot, you hold foot on brake, pad material transfers to rotor making it pulse like a warped rotor.
Cure: Go through a bedding cycle; Drive up to 80 or so (in safe environment) and brake hard (at the edge of lockup, but again be safe), release pedal before you come to a complete stop. Repeat several times. This should clear the rotor of any pad material.

Theory #2: Rotor is grooved. This should be obvious with a visual inspection.
Cure: Have rotors turned or replaced.

As far as a bent axle goes, jack up the rear and let it idle in 1st gear (of course, use all appropriate safety measures). Watch wheel rotating.

My personal guess would be the pad material transfer. If the rotor gets hot, and you hold the pedal down (or worse, set the parking brake) then the pad material will bond to the rotor. Then on braking, everytime the pad goes over that spot you will feel it. I just went through this with my Audi this spring (what I get for letting wife drive it I guess). The re-bedding process saved me hundreds of dollars for a rotor replacement.

If you doubt me (as many have in the past on this argument) then read this article, which in my opinion should be required reading for any driver: http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml

If you type "warped rotor" into google, this is at the top of the list of returns. A very good source of information. Hope this helps.

BTW, there is an autocross in Muskegon this Saturday. Can you make it?
All good advice, but would would this explain the wabbling tire? I'd deffinately be concerned about that.
Old 09-11-06, 04:26 PM
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well heres the deal, i still have to get the car legal, and i would like to do a 60k mile tune up to it. and my rad shakes a little bit cause one of the mounting ears is broken. do you thin they would fuss about the rad? but ill do my best to make it. i have a buddy with an fc, and he may come as well.

about the wheel though, that could have just been a figment of our imaginations. we may have just been seeing things, but either way, i plan to look at it as soon as i can get the car around a jack and stands.

Last edited by perfect_circle; 09-11-06 at 04:32 PM.
Old 09-11-06, 04:29 PM
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None of that should be an issue 4u. It will be good for you to get your feet wet now, then have the whole winter to do stuff to your car to get ready for next year. PM me if you're going to make it and I'll shoot you my phone# and address (right off the freeway)...
Old 09-14-06, 05:25 PM
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ok, well im pretty sure the axle is bent. i lifted it, and and the tire wobbled, and then took the tire off and the brake was wobbling. so tell me how safe is this to drive? and what axles can i use to replace it? does it have to be from the same model? i will search, but someone may be able to answer this faster. thanks
Old 09-15-06, 12:02 PM
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Have you checked the Wheel bearing play? I had a similar pedal feel but the rotors were fine. Turned out to be a slightly bad bearing. It took me a while when I had it out to find the flat spot but once I did, there was no doubt the bearing was bad. Swapped out the bearings on both sides and not noise and great pedal feel.

OOPS, just reread the original post and it is a rear wheel

Never mind...Although I did lose a wheel bearing in my FC once and it caused some noise, but not the bad pedal feel.

Last edited by imabyter; 09-15-06 at 12:15 PM.
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