Weber 48IDA on Stockport 12a
05-11-09, 07:19 PM
#32
motor in pieces
I ran a weber 48mmDCOE on my stockport 12a for a while. It ran like a bat out of hell above 3500, ran like complete crap below that. I played with jets and what not for quite a while. The idle wasn't that great cause it was large and it will bog/stumble if you get on the gas below 3 grand. It would start ok with 3 to 5 pumps of the pedal. I replaced that with a 45mm that started and ran alot nicer for a daily driver, but just didnt pull hard up top like the 48 did. If you can live with the really crappy low end, it will scream up top well past 7k.
05-11-09, 07:36 PM
#33
its all in the tuning...
IMHO, a 45 is a waste of hard earned cash. It looks nicer than a Nikki but performance wise, I'm not impressed. Ask mazda83 for his opinion. he upgraded from a 45 to a 48 IDA plus he has ridden in that SA with stock 12-A and IDA.
IMHO, a 45 is a waste of hard earned cash. It looks nicer than a Nikki but performance wise, I'm not impressed. Ask mazda83 for his opinion. he upgraded from a 45 to a 48 IDA plus he has ridden in that SA with stock 12-A and IDA.
05-11-09, 07:37 PM
#34
I ran a weber 48mmDCOE on my stockport 12a for a while. It ran like a bat out of hell above 3500, ran like complete crap below that. I played with jets and what not for quite a while. The idle wasn't that great cause it was large and it will bog/stumble if you get on the gas below 3 grand. It would start ok with 3 to 5 pumps of the pedal. I replaced that with a 45mm that started and ran alot nicer for a daily driver, but just didnt pull hard up top like the 48 did. If you can live with the really crappy low end, it will scream up top well past 7k.
You dont have any dyno runs with both setups, do you? Can you estimate how much hp you got over the 45 with the 48 in top end?
Thanks.
05-12-09, 05:39 AM
#36
...i had a 45, and my car ran like crap
...the 48 is the way to go...i just put mine on a couple of weeks ago and i am very happy with it, it even gives your exhaust a better deep sound... it's just the way to go...and there's alot of advantages if you get the 48... for example, easy to work on
, easy to take apart, can tune it to any setup you want to upgrade in the future...if you don't believe me, test drive a 45 then a 48... The SA with the stock 12-A and 48IDA was one of the most impressive runs almost crapped myself on the canyon run
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Jaden 7551L (09-10-17)
05-12-09, 10:33 AM
#38
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I ran a weber 48mmDCOE on my stockport 12a for a while. It ran like a bat out of hell above 3500, ran like complete crap below that. I played with jets and what not for quite a while. The idle wasn't that great cause it was large and it will bog/stumble if you get on the gas below 3 grand. It would start ok with 3 to 5 pumps of the pedal. I replaced that with a 45mm that started and ran alot nicer for a daily driver, but just didnt pull hard up top like the 48 did. If you can live with the really crappy low end, it will scream up top well past 7k.
Slammed gsl finally told me that he loves his finally tuned yaw..but driving mine the other day..there is a noticeable power difference...now he's going 13b and a weber 48..
05-12-09, 11:08 AM
#39
Waffles - hmmm good
iTrader: (1)
One of the things a lot of folks don't understand about progressive 2 barrels like
webers, dellortos, mikunis, etc is that for a stock port rotary you have to use the
right sized venturis so that the idle and the progression circuits work well upto full throttle.
Lots of times folks put a 48 whatever on there with the biggest venturi on a stock
port and then get upset when it doesn't perform well except at WOT. The problem is
without a smaller venturi in there at idle the stock port can't get enough velocity for
the air and fule to mix.
webers, dellortos, mikunis, etc is that for a stock port rotary you have to use the
right sized venturis so that the idle and the progression circuits work well upto full throttle.
Lots of times folks put a 48 whatever on there with the biggest venturi on a stock
port and then get upset when it doesn't perform well except at WOT. The problem is
without a smaller venturi in there at idle the stock port can't get enough velocity for
the air and fule to mix.
05-12-09, 02:43 PM
#40
motor in pieces
n0ferz, the car would idle fine with the 48. It just had to be set a little higher, like around 1000 to really be happy. As wackyracer said, i didn't enjoy the 45mm. As for seat of the pants dyno, i would say the 48 put down around 15 extra horses, especially in third. The carb transitioned alot better in third fourth and fifth than it did in the lower gears because the rpm changes so quickly in first and second.
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Jaden 7551L (09-10-17)
05-12-09, 03:11 PM
#41
65F10 idle jet
120 holders
37mm Chokes
135 main
120 air
All correct? I will be ordering them tonight if this is good. I tried PMing Rotaryshack to see his recommendations and if he sells the jets but still no answer
Thanks to everyone so far!
05-12-09, 03:36 PM
#42
n0ferz, the car would idle fine with the 48. It just had to be set a little higher, like around 1000 to really be happy. As wackyracer said, i didn't enjoy the 45mm. As for seat of the pants dyno, i would say the 48 put down around 15 extra horses, especially in third. The carb transitioned alot better in third fourth and fifth than it did in the lower gears because the rpm changes so quickly in first and second.
....I will start saving to buy a 48 IDA just for the hell of it.
05-12-09, 07:13 PM
#44
As I always recommend, invest on index and number drill bits. Drill them out until you find the size that fits your driving habit. then go to the partshouse and purchase the correct size. this is what you do when the 48 IDA you just purchased came with VW specs (smaller jets etc etc)
05-12-09, 07:37 PM
#45
There is a great deal on ebay under "weber jets" from 'carbpartsdirect'(which is actually pierce manifolds) They will sell you 24 mains for $25 plus shipping, IIRC about $10 for 2 day. They were all 115's when I got them so you can punch them out to anything usable for us.
By the way, I had just had a full bridgeport 12A on the dyno this week. We are forced to run 40mm vents but I got the AFR flat at 13.5 from 4000-9500rpm with 240 mains, 170 airs, F11's. If the car gets below 4K rpm when its running we have bigger problems than afr's but it was just a little rich down low.
You can make these carbs work on just about anything.
By the way, I had just had a full bridgeport 12A on the dyno this week. We are forced to run 40mm vents but I got the AFR flat at 13.5 from 4000-9500rpm with 240 mains, 170 airs, F11's. If the car gets below 4K rpm when its running we have bigger problems than afr's but it was just a little rich down low.
You can make these carbs work on just about anything.
05-13-09, 03:52 AM
#48
great looking car...
05-15-09, 02:59 AM
#49
Jeezus. Clear out your PM inbox and your sent items. I'm posting my reply to your PM here.
Goodnight.
Thats new
So I would need 65F10 Idle jets, F11 E tubes, ??? airs, 190 mains, and the 38mm chokes.
How much would you sell the E-tubes for?
yea that's about right. you might be able to go smaller on the mains stay between 170-200 and keep the air correctors between 120-170. It all depends on how strong your engine still is, and your elevation, how humid your area is. That's why noone can just give you a gaurenteed setup. $35 shipped for the e-tubes.
Goodnight.
Thats new
So I would need 65F10 Idle jets, F11 E tubes, ??? airs, 190 mains, and the 38mm chokes.How much would you sell the E-tubes for?
05-15-09, 10:00 AM
#50
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
i replied to his pm too.. i think he is trying to buy one set of jets one time and have the car run perfect. not going to happen.. each car is different so your going to need to buy a combination of jets and play around until you find your cars sweet spot. te most we can do is point you in the right direction