weber 45 dcoe sidedraft question
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weber 45 dcoe sidedraft question
Ok, so I just bought my new weber sidedraft and I have a couple of questions.
1. Do you need any kind of gasket between the upper and lower manifolds? I can't find one anywhere.
2. Just wanted to confirm that the vaccum advance on the dizzy will just be left open...anything else on that?
3. Can I just go to pep boys or something and get the air cleaner assimbly?
4. How will I vent the "crankcase"
And any other little tips you guys have got.
:EDIT:
Oh yea, there doesn't appear to be a fuel return line?!?!? WTF???? Do I just block that off?
1. Do you need any kind of gasket between the upper and lower manifolds? I can't find one anywhere.
2. Just wanted to confirm that the vaccum advance on the dizzy will just be left open...anything else on that?
3. Can I just go to pep boys or something and get the air cleaner assimbly?
4. How will I vent the "crankcase"
And any other little tips you guys have got.
:EDIT:
Oh yea, there doesn't appear to be a fuel return line?!?!? WTF???? Do I just block that off?
Last edited by calvinpaul; 03-17-05 at 09:11 PM.
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no, you need a regulator that has a return port. yes, you need a gasket there, just do what i did and go to napa and get their gasket sheet kit. trace and cut. works perfectly. probably won't find the air filter assembly at a local shop.
#3
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call rb or mazdatrix for the upper intake gasket. if not, a dab of silicone will do-yeah, the one in tube and not the one you suck on!!!
leave the vaccuum lines open and tap the stock nikki brass fittinng in the manifold for omp, thats if you dont have one yet.
also, you can get the air filter assembly from rotary reliability in santa ana.
venting the crankcase, drill a hole in the oil cap and put a 90* fitting in there.
depending on your pump, if its not more than 7 psi, no need for a return line.
leave the vaccuum lines open and tap the stock nikki brass fittinng in the manifold for omp, thats if you dont have one yet.
also, you can get the air filter assembly from rotary reliability in santa ana.
venting the crankcase, drill a hole in the oil cap and put a 90* fitting in there.
depending on your pump, if its not more than 7 psi, no need for a return line.
Last edited by Siraniko; 03-17-05 at 09:26 PM.
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So why would I not just leave the hose on the oil filler neck off and not cap the hole? Isn't that the same as a hole in the lid?
Also I have a holley 1-4 psi FPR and a carter pump, so does that mean that I should hook up the FPR to the return line instead of a guage? If so, how do I know what pressure I am running? Or do I even need a FPR?
Also I have a holley 1-4 psi FPR and a carter pump, so does that mean that I should hook up the FPR to the return line instead of a guage? If so, how do I know what pressure I am running? Or do I even need a FPR?
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nah, dont worry about the return line then. dead heading that setup will be fine. use the gauge. that fpr will go higher than it's stated 4 psi, atleast mine did back in the day
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get a filter at www.piercemanifolds.com its kandn, and they give you everything you need. i think its like 80$ for the assembly and the filter
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they push the power band around a bit. not sure of which way tho, i think the shoter runners have more high end power and the longer ones give more low end grunt. i dunno, just eaten a block of cheese over here.
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Originally Posted by calvinpaul
So why would I not just leave the hose on the oil filler neck off and not cap the hole? Isn't that the same as a hole in the lid?
#10
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Cool, I'll do that then. I just gots to figure out what the different size thingys mean...and then start learning how to tune this thing. Still not quite sure what the hell venturies are...
Thanks for the help gents.
Thanks for the help gents.
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