Ways to extend cars life.
04-12-04, 06:57 PM
#1
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Ways to extend cars life.
Are there in ways u can extend your cars life longer, besides changing oil and keeping it good condition. Any oil brands you suggest or any parts like airfilters,exhaust that make it easier on the engine. Sorry if this is a dumb question but i want to keep my car around as long as possible.
04-12-04, 07:36 PM
#4
Read her a bedtime story before you tuck her in at night 
Where's that thread we had a while back that had all this info and the great jokes?
On the serious side : Make sure your Oil Metering Pump is working to spec, use non-synthetic oil, and don't be afraid to put the revs up from time to time. Driving with the revs low all the time promotes carbon buildup.
Other than that, keep your filters clean. This includes your fuel filter (when was the last time you changed it? Can you even remember? 5$ and 5 minutes.. definitely worth it!)
Jon
Where's that thread we had a while back that had all this info and the great jokes?
On the serious side : Make sure your Oil Metering Pump is working to spec, use non-synthetic oil, and don't be afraid to put the revs up from time to time. Driving with the revs low all the time promotes carbon buildup.
Other than that, keep your filters clean. This includes your fuel filter (when was the last time you changed it? Can you even remember? 5$ and 5 minutes.. definitely worth it!)
Jon
Last edited by vipernicus42; 04-12-04 at 07:49 PM.
04-12-04, 08:12 PM
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you should read it the story of the tortise and the 7. (its different than the tortise and the hare, the 7 wins obviously... and the tortise is made of carbon fiber and underglow kits)
Make sure you show it the picture, too!
oh, and it couldnt hurt to keep an eye on the fluid levels/quality in the tranny and diff.
Make sure you show it the picture, too!
oh, and it couldnt hurt to keep an eye on the fluid levels/quality in the tranny and diff.
Last edited by Lotus00; 04-12-04 at 08:16 PM.
04-12-04, 08:23 PM
#6
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Speaking of the oil metering pump, that's another thing that will extend engine life--- either get rid of it (use a block-off plate) and run pre-mix (about 1 cup of 2-cycle oil poured directly into the fuel tank when re-fueling), or install a metering pump adapter which feeds 2-cycle oil to the metering pump from a separate reservior rather than 4-cycle oil from the oil pan. I use an adapter on my '85 12A.
4-cycle oil is great for lubing sleeve bearings and friction surfaces, but it doesn't burn very clean in the combustion chambers. The metering pump feeds a small amount into the engine to lube the apex seals. This oil is not retrieved and is burned along with the air/ fuel mixture.
Mazda realized that customers would freak if told that their new rotary engine required a reservior of 2-cycle oil be topped up at every filling, so they instead had 4-cycle oil metered from the oil pan, even though they knew 2-cycle would burn cleaner, lube better and not clog up the seals.
Even with the stock system these engines last a long time. But they could go much longer if 2-cycle oil were used to lube the apex seals.
4-cycle oil is great for lubing sleeve bearings and friction surfaces, but it doesn't burn very clean in the combustion chambers. The metering pump feeds a small amount into the engine to lube the apex seals. This oil is not retrieved and is burned along with the air/ fuel mixture.
Mazda realized that customers would freak if told that their new rotary engine required a reservior of 2-cycle oil be topped up at every filling, so they instead had 4-cycle oil metered from the oil pan, even though they knew 2-cycle would burn cleaner, lube better and not clog up the seals.
Even with the stock system these engines last a long time. But they could go much longer if 2-cycle oil were used to lube the apex seals.
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04-12-04, 09:03 PM
#8
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Unfortunately I have no photos (or know-how to post them) but the adapter bolts on in less than an hour. Price for a 12A adapter is $76U.S. (13B adapters range between &82 and $92). On top of the adapter you will need:
Two oil metering pump-to-mounting surface gaskets--- available from Mazda for $3 each. Only required if your engine is a 12A.
A reservior that's impervious to oil. (a $5 power steering fluid reservior from the wreckers works well).
A 2-1/2 ft length of neoprene (impervious to oil) fuel hose.
A 90 degree elbow that will fit inside the fuel hose.
Some small hose clamps to hold it all together.
Total spent on these extra components: <$20.
The reservior can be mounted quite easily onto the forward portion of the RH shock tower under the hood.
To order one of these adapters and /or get more info:
Log onto rotaryaviation.com
click left menu item "aviation products"
" " " " "engine extras"
" " " " "oil inject. pump adpt."
Read info, check out prices. Then e-mail Richard Sohn at the e-mail address provided--- unicorn@gdsys.net
Two oil metering pump-to-mounting surface gaskets--- available from Mazda for $3 each. Only required if your engine is a 12A.
A reservior that's impervious to oil. (a $5 power steering fluid reservior from the wreckers works well).
A 2-1/2 ft length of neoprene (impervious to oil) fuel hose.
A 90 degree elbow that will fit inside the fuel hose.
Some small hose clamps to hold it all together.
Total spent on these extra components: <$20.
The reservior can be mounted quite easily onto the forward portion of the RH shock tower under the hood.
To order one of these adapters and /or get more info:
Log onto rotaryaviation.com
click left menu item "aviation products"
" " " " "engine extras"
" " " " "oil inject. pump adpt."
Read info, check out prices. Then e-mail Richard Sohn at the e-mail address provided--- unicorn@gdsys.net
04-13-04, 05:33 AM
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vipernicus42
in your sig you said there is no law against accelleratio, just speed.
well actually there is a law against accelleration. its called exhibition of speed. if a cop thinks a car is accellerating faster than what he deems unsafe, then you can get really busted! for example, in a street race, and if the racers see a cop but dont reach the speed limit and if they slow down the cop will bust them.BUSTED!
in your sig you said there is no law against accelleratio, just speed.
well actually there is a law against accelleration. its called exhibition of speed. if a cop thinks a car is accellerating faster than what he deems unsafe, then you can get really busted! for example, in a street race, and if the racers see a cop but dont reach the speed limit and if they slow down the cop will bust them.BUSTED!
04-13-04, 09:02 PM
#12
Rotary Enthusiast
Originally posted by MarkPerez
One big way to extend to cars life is too........ not drive it.
One big way to extend to cars life is too........ not drive it.
As for car covers, be advised that even the highest quality covers can have a very adverse effect on your finish. Many people have learned this the hard way.
Last edited by cosmicbang; 04-13-04 at 09:09 PM.
04-13-04, 09:10 PM
#13
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
Good advice up there, but the most simple one to make, that doesn't require any modifications to your car is... (drum roll please);
CHANGE YOUR OIL!
No kidding. Since the rotary gets a lot of cooling effect out of the oil system, it requires that the oil retain it's lubricity properties and cooling properties throughout it's servicable life (the oil, not the car). This means that more frequent oil changes will be beneficial to your overall engine performance and longevity.
I like to change oil at 3k mile increments, or close thereabouts - I change it sooner than this if it's driven in a lot of dusty conditions, and sometimes less than this if it's wintertime (AZ temperatures and climate), or if the car isn't seeing a lot of stop-and-go driving. Highway miles help to increase mileage before I change the oil, since highway speeds mean more cooling air through the front-mount cooler, and lower oil temperatures, overall.
High RPM running will cause more oil heat and pressure and pressure is one of the conditions that breaks oil down quickly. A test by Consumer Reports ran engine oil through a Fuel Injector at high pressure to break it down - think about that as your engine attempts to spray oil through your eccentric shaft to lubricate and cool the insides of the rotors, and you'll see that higher RPM decreases oil life and performance.
Plus, since your engine burns the engine oil through injection by the OMP, the cleaner your oil, the cleaner it will burn.
It really is that simple. Other things you can do is to take care of preventative maintenance before it leaves you stranded - that front wheel bearing growl, that loose steering from the idler arm bushings, those loose lugnuts (!)... PM does wonders to vehicle life. HTH,
CHANGE YOUR OIL!
No kidding. Since the rotary gets a lot of cooling effect out of the oil system, it requires that the oil retain it's lubricity properties and cooling properties throughout it's servicable life (the oil, not the car). This means that more frequent oil changes will be beneficial to your overall engine performance and longevity.
I like to change oil at 3k mile increments, or close thereabouts - I change it sooner than this if it's driven in a lot of dusty conditions, and sometimes less than this if it's wintertime (AZ temperatures and climate), or if the car isn't seeing a lot of stop-and-go driving. Highway miles help to increase mileage before I change the oil, since highway speeds mean more cooling air through the front-mount cooler, and lower oil temperatures, overall.
High RPM running will cause more oil heat and pressure and pressure is one of the conditions that breaks oil down quickly. A test by Consumer Reports ran engine oil through a Fuel Injector at high pressure to break it down - think about that as your engine attempts to spray oil through your eccentric shaft to lubricate and cool the insides of the rotors, and you'll see that higher RPM decreases oil life and performance.
Plus, since your engine burns the engine oil through injection by the OMP, the cleaner your oil, the cleaner it will burn.
It really is that simple. Other things you can do is to take care of preventative maintenance before it leaves you stranded - that front wheel bearing growl, that loose steering from the idler arm bushings, those loose lugnuts (!)... PM does wonders to vehicle life. HTH,
04-13-04, 09:19 PM
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Anyone have a link to the thread about the front wheel bearing growl? When I'm going about 45mph in 5th I hear a growling sound sometimes...sounds like it's coming from the back of the car though.
04-13-04, 09:34 PM
#15
Dang, so there *is* a law against acceleration!
And as for "parking it"... my car was parked for 5 years under a nice soft cotton tarp... And it's taken me another 3 years and more than $3000 to properly recover from it! Sitting is *not* how to extend a car's life!
Jon
And as for "parking it"... my car was parked for 5 years under a nice soft cotton tarp... And it's taken me another 3 years and more than $3000 to properly recover from it! Sitting is *not* how to extend a car's life!
Jon
04-13-04, 10:11 PM
#16
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Well, as far as mods go, Id suggest an E-fan, takes load off of water pump and adds power and economy, keep her in good tune with good plugs and wires and stuff. Oh, and maybe a direct fire system? clenaer burn, smoother idle and accleration, idk, seems like it would add to the life.
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