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Somewhere along the line someone removed all emissions from my 79, including the choke parts attached to carb. I’d like to have that part working or rig a manual choke.
Any tips?
ok when you pull the choke you see the little limiter move Ig you can call it a limiter, it basically allows the choke to be able to move. well if you tie the arm for the choke itself to that limiter arm it will work. unfortulently the spring on the choke will pull the choke back unless you hold it there, or remove the spring. a twist tie or paperclip may work. it's similar to how you swap to mechanical secondary.
ok when you pull the choke you see the little limiter move Ig you can call it a limiter, it basically allows the choke to be able to move. well if you tie the arm for the choke itself to that limiter arm it will work. unfortulently the spring on the choke will pull the choke back unless you hold it there, or remove the spring. a twist tie or paperclip may work. it's similar to how you swap to mechanical secondary.
Thanks but all I have is the choke cable loose, nothing to attach to. I can rig it up to pull choke closed with the cable. Maybe that spring isn’t strong enough or correct .
Thanks but all I have is the choke cable loose, nothing to attach to. I can rig it up to pull choke closed with the cable. Maybe that spring isn’t strong enough or correct .
Here's an active for sale ad, that includes a couple of "parts" carbs. I f you need some misc. parts to complete yours, maybe these could provide.
Take the cable out of the bracket. Remove the black circular object. Spin the nut up the threads up to near the end of its travel. Install the cable back into its position and set/adjust the free-play slack using the nut.
Take the cable out of the bracket. Remove the black circular object. Spin the nut up the threads up to near the end of its travel. Install the cable back into its position and set/adjust the free-play slack using the nut.
Thanks Jeff, any idea which carb this is?
Also it’s adjusted all the way back, still too much slack. I’m obviously overlooking some
thing
mwpayne, I think something in the linkage down on the shaft is effed up. Correct it, and it will bring the upper connection piece to where it is supposed to be. The cable ought to fit properly once the linkage is sorted.
mwpayne, I think something in the linkage down on the shaft is effed up. Correct it, and it will bring the upper connection piece to where it is supposed to be. The cable ought to fit properly once the linkage is sorted.
Agreed. Hoping someone has a pic I can use to figure out what’s what.
Here's a pic of my old stripped Nikki. The bi-metal coil is removed but it still has that linkage your working on (which controlled high idle). I'll see if I can find any other pics (sold the carb).
Here ya go, this shows what your looking for.... again, the coil is removed but here's the orientation of the links/rods. Hope this helps.
Here's a pic of my old stripped Nikki. The bi-metal coil is removed but it still has that linkage your working on (which controlled high idle). I'll see if I can find any other pics (sold the carb).
Here ya go, this shows what your looking for.... again, the coil is removed but here's the orientation of the links/rods. Hope this helps.
awesome many thanks! Kinda looks like the cable bracket needs to be farther back somehow. Once weather improves I’ll see what’s what.
mwpayne, perhaps you could take a few photos showing more of the linkages? Something from the top showing the whole choke/fast idle arm, as well as one from the side showing the linkages (if you can get to it) would be really helpful. One of the linkages where they attach to the primary shaft would also be helpful as Jeff noted the issue might be there.
Oh, yeah that's it. I totally missed that photo in post #10.
mwpayne, you'll have to pull off a couple pieces to get that flipped around, namely the throttle cable bracket and the bimetal spring bracket. It will be easiest to do with the carb off, as I don't know how you'd get to some of those screws otherwise. Now I'm wondering what the deal is with the fast idle rod.
When that linkage is correct, it should be essentially parallel to the top of the throttle cable bracket. After fixing this you may have to readjust your fast idle linkage depending on how it is right now.
Edit: Looking at it again, you might be able to just turn the linkage ccw without removing anything (besides maybe the fast idle rod). This could be done without removing the carb, although you might still want to pull off the bimetal spring bracket for easier access. Also, that little flange (in the picture: lower part of the rotating linkage, sticking out to the left near the spring) is what the spring should be caught on.
Last edited by Benjamin4456; Jan 6, 2020 at 05:35 PM.
Actually since I’m going to be painting car and engine bay, I’ll be sending engine to RR for a rebuild. So I’ll have carb off. Once I do that maybe I can post better pics so I can better understand what you guys are trying to help with, or even perhaps send carb to someone to get all this straightened out.
