Vacuum diagrams for stock 79-80 12A
06-10-11, 02:55 PM
#1
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Vacuum diagrams for stock 79-80 12A
I just recently got my other 1980 RX7 to start up, and I'm having problems with the idle of my car. I believe the vacuum lines are the culprit, being that some are missing, and plugged.
I have the Haynes manual, and it's pretty informative, but very brief. I have another 1980 RX7 that I'm comparing the vac lines to, but the air cleaner and carb are slightly different.
My cars are titled 1980, but built in 1979, one 7/79 the other 12/79. They both have minute changes mostly to the air cleaner fittings, and the carb fittings.
I'm not sure which one I should follow, because of these differences. The idle compensator line goes two different places, as well as the lines from the coasting valve, and a few others in that area.
I'll take some pics, and note the exact lines in question. If you have some detailed pics, can you please post them also?
Thank you,
beej
I have the Haynes manual, and it's pretty informative, but very brief. I have another 1980 RX7 that I'm comparing the vac lines to, but the air cleaner and carb are slightly different.
My cars are titled 1980, but built in 1979, one 7/79 the other 12/79. They both have minute changes mostly to the air cleaner fittings, and the carb fittings.
I'm not sure which one I should follow, because of these differences. The idle compensator line goes two different places, as well as the lines from the coasting valve, and a few others in that area.
I'll take some pics, and note the exact lines in question. If you have some detailed pics, can you please post them also?
Thank you,
beej
06-10-11, 03:35 PM
#2
Are you missing the stickers inside the hood that shows vacuum routing?
Are your cars Fed, Canadian, or California spec? Vacuum changes slightly in some cases.
Here are what I have in the way of already-on-line pix from my 80 California spec:
Are your cars Fed, Canadian, or California spec? Vacuum changes slightly in some cases.
Here are what I have in the way of already-on-line pix from my 80 California spec:
06-11-11, 12:27 PM
#5
Senior Member
If there are lots of plugs and everything it is possible the person before you may of taken off all the emissions and rat's nest. There have been several people saying on here that if that is done wrong then it can cause many problems with the cars. If you are missing all of that and don't really have access to it you could try and check out
http://maz_tutorials.ten15.net/Tutorial_1.pdf
Maybe if that is what they did then you can maybe go step by step to either make sure it was done right or replace all the items you are missing. But that's only really useful of they took all that out.
http://maz_tutorials.ten15.net/Tutorial_1.pdf
Maybe if that is what they did then you can maybe go step by step to either make sure it was done right or replace all the items you are missing. But that's only really useful of they took all that out.
06-12-11, 01:31 PM
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Nice ride DD! Also great pics! After further ispection, I noticed my Anti-Afterburn Valve has been removed, and my Air Control Valve has been blocked off.
Should I cap the fitting from the ACV to the AAV?
I believe my cars are Federal models, there not from Canada, and were never registered in California.
My latest find is, I don't believe my Oil Metering Pump is working. While the engine is idling should I see oil flowing through the OMP tubing?
Thanks,
beej
Should I cap the fitting from the ACV to the AAV?
I believe my cars are Federal models, there not from Canada, and were never registered in California.
My latest find is, I don't believe my Oil Metering Pump is working. While the engine is idling should I see oil flowing through the OMP tubing?
Thanks,
beej
06-12-11, 02:44 PM
#7
The general rule is "cap anything not connected," though I'm uncertain if it would make a diff in your case.
Oil flowing through the tubing for the OMP is hard to spot unless you can see a bubble. It moves in surges (one tube, then the other), and quite slowly... total flow is measured in partial CC's per minute.
If you can spot a bubble (most likely after the car's sat a while), you'll see it move forward only at a rate of something like an inch every second or two.
Oil flowing through the tubing for the OMP is hard to spot unless you can see a bubble. It moves in surges (one tube, then the other), and quite slowly... total flow is measured in partial CC's per minute.
If you can spot a bubble (most likely after the car's sat a while), you'll see it move forward only at a rate of something like an inch every second or two.
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06-14-11, 01:53 AM
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The general rule is "cap anything not connected," though I'm uncertain if it would make a diff in your case.
Oil flowing through the tubing for the OMP is hard to spot unless you can see a bubble. It moves in surges (one tube, then the other), and quite slowly... total flow is measured in partial CC's per minute.
If you can spot a bubble (most likely after the car's sat a while), you'll see it move forward only at a rate of something like an inch every second or two.
Oil flowing through the tubing for the OMP is hard to spot unless you can see a bubble. It moves in surges (one tube, then the other), and quite slowly... total flow is measured in partial CC's per minute.
If you can spot a bubble (most likely after the car's sat a while), you'll see it move forward only at a rate of something like an inch every second or two.
The OMP lines are hard to see through, and I'm still unsure if its working. I was thinking the oil would be darker, coming from the pan and all. For now I made some pre-mix. (128:1) 1 gal gas - 1 oz oil, does this sound about right?
06-14-11, 02:29 PM
#9
I've never used pre-mix, but lots of folks here do so hopefully someone will chime in on that.
The factory-recommended test for the OMP is quite simple; disconnect the lines with the engine running at a specific RPM and measure the output over a certain period of time. And inject a small amount of oil into the carb by hand to keep things lubed during testing.
Details in the FSM (page 2:5) : Spec is 2.0-2.5cc of oil from both tubes together, over 6 minutes, at 2,000 rpm. I use a hobby syringe to inject oil down the primaries during the test, & an old cough-syrup measuring cup to capture the 'test' oil.
The factory-recommended test for the OMP is quite simple; disconnect the lines with the engine running at a specific RPM and measure the output over a certain period of time. And inject a small amount of oil into the carb by hand to keep things lubed during testing.
Details in the FSM (page 2:5) : Spec is 2.0-2.5cc of oil from both tubes together, over 6 minutes, at 2,000 rpm. I use a hobby syringe to inject oil down the primaries during the test, & an old cough-syrup measuring cup to capture the 'test' oil.
06-16-11, 01:32 PM
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06-16-11, 01:40 PM
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I've never used pre-mix, but lots of folks here do so hopefully someone will chime in on that.
The factory-recommended test for the OMP is quite simple; disconnect the lines with the engine running at a specific RPM and measure the output over a certain period of time. And inject a small amount of oil into the carb by hand to keep things lubed during testing.
Details in the FSM (page 2:5) : Spec is 2.0-2.5cc of oil from both tubes together, over 6 minutes, at 2,000 rpm. I use a hobby syringe to inject oil down the primaries during the test, & an old cough-syrup measuring cup to capture the 'test' oil.
The factory-recommended test for the OMP is quite simple; disconnect the lines with the engine running at a specific RPM and measure the output over a certain period of time. And inject a small amount of oil into the carb by hand to keep things lubed during testing.
Details in the FSM (page 2:5) : Spec is 2.0-2.5cc of oil from both tubes together, over 6 minutes, at 2,000 rpm. I use a hobby syringe to inject oil down the primaries during the test, & an old cough-syrup measuring cup to capture the 'test' oil.
Thank you,
beej
06-17-11, 01:37 PM
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