Searched, cant find anything.

First off let me start off with what I've done to the car, street ported 12a 1981, full rb exhaust, replaced upper and lower rad hoses, intake gasket, orings, thermostat.

I've placed a hose on the outlet that went to the exhaust (for backpressure I'm assuming). I plugg'd that hole up because before I did it wouldnt rev up right. After that problem with rev's seemed to be fixed, she runs smoooooth now. But I think she is burning a little bit of coolant, I know for sure at startup the coolant is burning ( I can smell it). The motor rebuild only has 30k miles on it.


So my problem being, I dont think I'm leaking any coolant ( I dont see puddles under the car), but everytime I shut the car off and let it cool down i must add coolant (not so much that I cannot see the level before I add it, but enough to make the add coolant light go off if I'm in a corner or something, sometimes when I'm just driving straight.) Also EVERYTIME I add coolant I have to empty out the res bottle (its overfilled), seems to be the car wont SUCK the coolant out of the bottle back into the rad when its low. MY hose that goes to my overflow bottle is old, and I will get it replaced...being its one of the last hoses I can replace.

IF anyone has any suggestions I'm open to it.

 

Well, I would start by replacing the radiator cap itself. If that doesn't fix it, then it would seem that you have exhaust gasses entering the cooling system, which then forces the coolant out of the radiator.

 

Remember to use a cap with the same rating that you have. Or, rather, as stock. A higher rating is NOT a performance upgrade!

 

Replaced cap as well (forgot to list it). Anything else?

 

And you used the same pressure rating as the stock cap?

 

I had a similar issue but i wasn't burning any coolent it was just all pushing out the rad cap. I found out finally that my thermostat was sticking. replaced that and it's working great. also leaving the thermostat out is not a upgrade. in fact leaving it at can cause overheating issues.

 

Leaving the thermostat out can also make your A/C system whacky if I remember correctly.

Basically, if your cooling system came with it, DONT REMOVE IT!

 

Bad as I hate to say it, this actually sounds like a coolant seal in the motor.
Has this engine ever been overheated?

 

how hard is it to replace coolant seal inside the motor? Involve a total rebuild? OR just a gasket set rebuild? IF need be I might have to yank the motor and do it anyways. The owner previous to me did recal over heating the car once, he said "The temp gauge only went up to 3/4"


to warm?

If so how much do you think will be replacment cost?? if I do all the work.. and how hard is it?

 

I think it would be more worth your time to take it to a mechanic and have them pressure test the coolant system. At least then you will know for sure if the problem lies within the engine itself or some heater hose that you cant see. Also, I have had to replace my new intake mani orings a week after replacing them the first time. Not sure if I installed the incorrectly but its worth a shot. Better to spend 15 bucks "just to make sure" than to drop way more in replacing internal engine seals and still have the same problem.

 

Also, make sure that you ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS, use a genuine Mazda thermostat when you replace.

 

If the cooling system isn't pulling the coolant back into the rad, check the over flow hose and the pickup tube in the over flow reservior for leaks, cracks, pinholes etc. If that part of the system isn't sound, it will not refill the rad. If that part checks out, do a pressure test.