Randokuky

I have gotten everything I need for the most part, I have en extra coil but while I was removing it from a car the + post broke. Would it be ok to soder the wires to it? if so would it be better to use the broken coil for trailing or leading coil?

also since you leave the trailing alone, then there is no need to tuch anything that has to do with the trailing other than the spark plug wires right?

MosesX605

You mean the threaded post broke off the coil?

Soldering the connection to the coil makes it a bitch to have to take apart again if something fails or you want to relocate it somewhere else. I'd get another coil if I were you. Soldering would work, but that's pretty ghetto.

The way that I've got mine setup, I've moved all three coils together into one bracket mounted on my drivers side strut tower. That makes it easier to wire up and looks alot cleaner. I'll snap some pictures tonight.

Randokuky

Yeah, its gonna make ut harder to take off, but right now i dont have the 30 needed for a new coil. ill just solder it for now. thx for your help.

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

Soldering is a temporary fix til you get a new one. Be sure to make the wire longer to make a clean install on the new coil.

Randokuky

well i ended up beging and pleding for the money for a new coil from the girl. I have a question about how i grounded the plate tho, I have it grounded on the screw that also ground the neg batt cableon the side of the strut tower. Is this ok?

Randokuky

Is it ok to ground the plate with the igniters on the strut tower with the screw that grounds the ned cable from the battery?

blwfly

iTrader: (4)

what did you use for a bracket? got a picture

MosesX605

I was going to snap a picture or two tonight but I can't find a digicam at the moment. Hopefully tomorrow.

Randokuky

Ok, I have finnished. Is it nessary to re-set the timing? Its midnight here and the is loud as **** so I can keep it runing and tun it now. Should I reset the timing? do I still set the timing the normal way? Ill try and get pics of the install tomorrow but i dunno. Im using 2 gm igniters and the j109 thats still on the dizzy for trailing, is this ok? (as far as having 2 GM and 1 J109?) I also didnt touch the trailing and the way its hooked up, still on the dizzy the way it came stock thats the way it should be right? (other than the plug wires moved to leading)


I did start the car for a few secs, and it ran like ****......timing maybe?

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

my designs

Randokuky

Can the plate used be to thin? Because I just used an extra slab of crap that I had left over from the block off plates use in rats removal, what will happen if the plate it to small?

MosesX605

Well you want to make sure that there is a decent surface area around the ignition modules/ignitors because they do heat up and the bigger/thicker the plate they're mounted on, the more effective heat sink it can be. Some people even mount their ignitors to old computer processor heat sinks. I think that's overkill myself, but it would definately keep the modules cool.

I should have some updated pictures of my setup this afternoon. I've got some old pictures but I've changed a quite a few things since then and want to show my current setup.

sgieldon

MSD Blaster2
Best Coils Out there since you can Mount them in any Direction!
Match them with some MSD 8.5mm Wires and they will give you every Ounce of Juice you would ever need.
sgieldon
steve

Randokuky

well I have a huge slab of metal, its just thin. So im guessing cause its huge its ok. Another question. I have the trailing set-up stock (as posted many times) so for power I have the wire that power then stock, but I only have a power source to the trailing, should I split the other stock wire that went to the leading and hook up both other coils?

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

run a jumper wire from L1 + to L2 +

MosesX605

Ok, so here's how mine looks:



That's mounted to the strut tower where the main fuseable link used to be. I moved that to a convenient bolt hole on the upper front side of the strut tower.



That's located where the two coils on the fender used to be. That plate is 1/8th inch aluminum and is about 2.5 x 5 in.

Randokuky

Ok, so I got the car started and everything. Was running ruff and like ****. I check the timing and the trailing mark (red) was dead on. The leading on the other hand......was no where to be found....no matter how far I moved the dizz advance or retard the yellow notch never showed. What could cause this?


Off topic, I went to back the car out into the drive way and I guess the clutch went out........Right now I dunno if I wanna fix it or trash it...

blwfly

iTrader: (4)

awsome does it take up alot of room on the strut tower

Randokuky

So can anyone tell me why the trailing (red) notch is dead on and the leading (yellow) notch is nowhere to be seen no matter how far its advanced or retarded?

MosesX605

If it's running poorly the leading ignition may not be firing. Have you checked for spark? Are your ignition modules properly grounded? They need a good ground to function.

Randokuky

Yeah they are grounded, I even used the bolt that grounds the Neg Battery cable, I guess Ill check for spark in a sec