First off, I want to swap the FMOC from my -SE into my GS. Will everything I need to do this (besides new seals and washers etc.) swap right off the -SE to the GS, such as the oil filter adapter? GS still has the 12a...


Also, I'm wanting to swap the power steering from my -SE parts car into my GS. What all will I need to remove from the -SE, and what will I need to do to the GS for this to work?

Searched but didn't quite find any complete answers...


- Jesse

 

Guessing that your Gs is in the 83-85 catergory with the beehive cooler?

It is a straight forward swap using the lines and mounts off the SE. Also the filter adapter also.

As far as the P/S goes. You will need to change steering boxes and of course the p/s mounting brackets. The only thing that will not be activated is the pressure switch to enhance the steering at lower speeds which is controlled by a seperate processor in the Se.

 

Yes, 84. The beehive oil cooler is leaking, so I figured instead of trying to fix that, I'll just swap over the FMOC.

Good to know it'll all work.

Thanks!

 

There has been some disagreement, but have found it easier to swap the steering box and column as a unit. Be careful when removing the steering wheel so that you don't break the pin that allows the column to collapse in case of an accident.

As doc said, you should have everything you need for the swap. Be sure to replace the 2 o-rings under the pedistal mount and new crush washers are a must.

 

Thanks for telling me, I'll be sure to be careful with that.



Are these the o-rings I'll be needing?

http://mazdatrix.com/getprice.asp?partnum=10-1601-9954

 

Probably, but you can take the pedistal to your local parts store and have them match the size you need from the box they keep under the counter. No shipping and much cheaper.

 

Oh alright, cool.

 

You can also mic the old o-ring to figure the size and use that to find a cheaper source. I take the old o-ring and measure the outside diameter, giving me the o.d. needed. I then measure the thickness of the flattened o-ring and add .5 millimeters to obtain the true thickness needed. Since the old ring is dried and hard the measured thickness represents the actual clearance between the two mating surfaces. The reason it leaks is there is no compression factor left in it. I have found the hard way an extra .5 mills is that factor. So if I mic an old o-ring with a 10mil o.d. and a 1 mil thickness I need a 10 o.d X1.5.

I would have my reservations on taking the pedestal for someone to size the o-ring. They can tell the o.d. needed but the thickness could just be a visual guess. Too thin it leaks, too thick and the mating surfaces will not fit flush and may cause one to crack, I found out the hard way and only with an extra .5mil too much.

 

Going to the parts store and sourcing the o-ring is what I did when I added my 2nd gen fmoc. I have had no issues with it at all, otherwise I would not have made the suggestion.

 

Ditto. I got the copper sealing washers at the same place. Less than $5 for 6 copper, and 2 rubber rings.