Ok so i have been collecting parts for my N/A13B i want to put in the FB and i will be using the turbo housing, plates and intake with fuel only ecu (12a dizzy for spark). Anyways if i wanted to turbo it all i would have to do is just change the internals, slap a turbo on and tune the ecu for it? Whats your thought on it?

 

You can turbo an N/A engine without any real problems. Aaroncake is running about 380RWHP at a modest 13 or 17 PSI (I can't remember which) and he still has plenty of room to turn up the wick. That is on an 86 N/A engine. On top of that there's a number of guys running 2nd Gen Turbo parts on 12A's and N/A 13B's. You can leave the internals alone but make sure you get a very good tune on the ECU, a properly sized turbo and a proper fuel delivery system.

 

Nearly all rotaries have boost friendly compression ratios,so if you dont get nuts you can usually leave the engine alone internally.
The two most important things to make it reliable is to start with a healthy engine and of course to keep the tuning in check.Dont get hot,dont run lean,dont advance the timing too much.

 

And be looking for a 12AT distributor while you're at it, as it'll incorporate a boost retard. I wonder how tough it would be to make a boost-friendly advance mechanism to drop into a S3 dizzy setup.

 

well i will put the lower comp rotors in if i ever do the turbo thing, but a normal 12A dizzy isnt ok for it? i am probelly only want to do 300rwhp with the turbo, NA 200rwhp

 

You're dreaming at those hp numbers on a 12A NA at 200. That will take nearly a full bp for rwhp and low comp 12A rotors only came on the 12ATs. The 12AT dizzy retards timing as boost/rpm increases, which helps prevent detonation. There's nothing wrong with running high comp rotors on a turbo, tuning, no mater what the compression, is the key to engine longevity. Finding 12AT rotors and dizzy will prove to be a fruitless search since they are so rare and never were imported to North America.

 

+1, finding 12AT rotors is next to impossible, i had thought about it, then changed my mind

 

As I said, many people have turbo'd their 12A's without changing a whole lot, many run blwo thru systems which eliminate the need for a computer. The only reason you should have to pull the motor is to have it rebuilt/ported. Leave your internals alone, unless they absolutly need replacing. And if you do find 12AT parts, which is highly unlikely, you should put them under glass and show them off.

 

Lol, yeah i was thinking of swapping out my 12A for a S4 or S5 TII but now i am leaning more towards a blowthrough on my 12A

 

no its going to be a 13B NA or 13B turbo

 

Well then you dont need to worry about finding anything 12AT related. Just turbo, fuel, and tuning. Sorry most of us have 12A's so we sometimes forget about 13B's in 1st gens. That being said your still not going to get 200 N/A RWHP. Maybe at the e-shaft. However with a turbo the sky is almost the limit. Well your wallet is the limit.

 

if Yaw Power is able to get 210rwhp with theres so why can't I? link for it http://www.yawpower.com/sep2004.html

 

As previously stated by almost everyone the n/a internals can take it if its tuned properly and you dont go nuts

not seeing the figures from that link. Seeing that they used tII parts and N/A parts, with a 12A dizzy. Which i think has been covered.

So what are you wanting to know?

 

Well, if we all had Yaw's years of experience and knowledge, 200 NA hp is probably possible. However, if you spend time reading through the 2nd gen forum, you'll find very very few who have hit the 200 hp mark. It's not an easy task and takes every tweak and trick in the book.

I missed the 13B in your 1st post and assumed you were working with a 12A. While a 13B will be easier to hit the mark than a 12A, it's still going to be a task, good luck with your efforts.

 

Also considering they were going after cheap horsepower, doing the porting in house drops a few bucks off the top, so it wouldn't be shocking if it was a running a full BP. Again mentioning that they didn't really specify what was done with the engine other than the general stuff. Also as you can see by the pictures, cheap for them, still looks very expensive. So if your going for an N/A, drag/race only vehicle than that would be the route to follow. However after reading a number of posts on that topic and it's streetability, I've decided to go with a large streetport. Because I can't honestly say that this car will see enough track time to justify the driveability issues most have, on top of the risk I would be taking with assuming that I would share the experiences of the few people that have had no problems at all on the street.

 

ya i am going to large streetport motor with a race exhaust port. i have done the same and read that Bridge-port is not really the best for the street. well i am going to slowly build this motor and once it gets on its way i will start posting the progress and try and see if i can hit that 200RWHP!!!

 

There ya go. A goal of 200 RWHP is OK, as long as you understand you may never get there, and have it actually turn out to be worth the effort. I sometimes chuckle when people mention their HP goals, when really all you can do is mod it with the best parts available, and the right parts, and just be happy with the HP outcome. My goal is just to put a decent carb on, a healthy SP, and the current exhaust, and the supporting stuff, and just be happy with what I get. Good luck to you.

 

Here Is A Cartech Blow Through 13b 4 Port
$1300