rearviewmirror

How much do you lot see all original GSL-SE's going for w/ < 100k miles? Consider the cars being all original, even the radio with no major defects.

I know Edmunds and KBB aren't reliable in this case and I've checked the history on Ebay with not too much to see.

I've seen some as low as 3k and some has high as 6-7k but what really is an ideal price? (Besides free!)

Again, GSL-SE's, < 100k miles, all OE with no major flaws.

Vashner

It depends on the individual car. The prices are wild because there are just so many millions of used cars out there.

Maybe the question is.. Is it worth it? That's something you have to ask yourself in the end. If it's mint sure I think it's worth that much but that's just one persons opinion. Budget is different for everyone.

Does it make you happy when you drive it? that's what it's all about....

It's not really something you would buy for a daily driver or "best buy" for the buck. It's a unique machine that is like a samuri sword. Some not do good.. like my rusty.. some are elite like a fine sword. The value is that feeling of man and machine that is unique to each generation of the RX-7.

rearviewmirror

I understand.. I just didn't know if there was a going rate for good cars. I keep telling myself that I should get a GSL instead, I really like the carb'd cars, they're just too easy to work on.

pjr

iTrader: (8)

Here's a rule of thumb for SE pricing:

• A low mileage SE (under 45k) will run from $7500 to $9500.
• A clean medium mile (75k to 90k) run from $3500 to $5000.
• High mile cars (over 100k) that are really clean sell the $2500 to $$3500 range.

John64

^^^ huh! Where do you get those numbers? I say it all depends on the seller and how bad the buyer wants it. I picked up my mint SE with 145k for $1500. Yes it was a 4 hour drive to get it, but worth it.

pjr

iTrader: (8)

Well, I've owned four SEs in the last 5 years, all purchased "online." I've monitored a lot of ads and transactions on ebay and other sites. I've sold three of them (all online). I also bought two other non-SEs online; sold one local and dealt with insurance on the other one, a turbo that was stolen. None of these cars had over 80k miles. All were very clean cars. So, that's my knowledge base.

The more the mileage increases over 100k, the more the price drops. Hence, $1500 for a car with nearly 150K is realistic. The good news for you is that rarely does a car with that mileage remain kept in mint condition. You got a great deal to get a car so clean.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

7 prices are all over the map. Some owners think it's an old car and not worth much, others think they're gold plated. Any SE under $2500 that's low mileage, (under 100k miles), and well maintained, rust free, good body and interior is a bargain. I've seen prices for different SE's in the above condition range from 1500 to 7k. It all comes down to what the buyer is willing to pay and how much the seller is willing to deal.

85 FB

I got my -SE for $1500 with 146K miles on it. But, there were a few things that needed fixing and the body could use some touch up in some places.

rearviewmirror

I making an offer on one tomorrow. All original <70k miles. It's out of state, but judging by the pics I've seen it's well worth it.

pjr

iTrader: (8)

With that mileage, $5000, +/- $1000 all day....

rotarygod

iTrader: (1)

I bought mine from the original owner. The car had a little 100K miles on it. Garage kept straight body and decent paint. Paid $300 for it. Yes it ran.

rearviewmirror

What should I look for on a GSL-SE?

I asked about the electronics, everything works and is all original. Hot starting is good, no leaks, transmission does not grind or pop out of gear. Paint and body is all original. Has the original clutch in it still but drives fine.

Car has been in the family since 1990.

I've owned heaps of 12A RX's, but never an GSL-SE model so the FI system is new to me. I don't any other gotcha's with that model.

Rx-7Doctor

iTrader: (13)

The Se Fuel injection either works flawlessly or doesn't. If there are no idle or hot start issues, then all is well.
Best rule of thumb on the SE injection system is don't mess with it unless you have an issue. :-)

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Do the usual body checks for rust. Other than that, leaking injectors and/or pulsation dampner and carboned up aux ports are the most common problems. Post up some pics and asking price.

rearviewmirror

Here is the car I am making an offer on... 1995 GSL-SE 67k miles ~$3500 Please let me know what you think and if anyone has a VIN checking account I'd really appreciate the help. :-)

85 FB

Wow. That is nice. Whatever that guy is asking for seems totally legit IF it's not too outrageous. Wish mine looked that decent when I picked it up. What's he wanting for it?

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Is it worth 3500. probably. Some would pay much more, many of us are tightasses and wouldn't. Body, paint and interior look to be in very good condition. If the mechanicals are a reflection of the cosmetics, it may be a bargain at 3500. From what I can see in the pics, the only options it doesn't have is the glass sunroof and powersteering.

pjr

iTrader: (8)

Great price! Looks really clean!

With that mileage, check to ensure that the fuel has been maintained. If it runs sluggish, it could be tank rust in the fuel, causing all sorts of problems. I got burned on that once, and I know of others who had the same problem.

Today's fuels with the modern blends are not as stable as in past years, and are susceptible to turn to varnish after a few months of sitting unused. Stabil helps preserve the fuel in stored vehicles and keeps the tank from rusting out.

Hopefully, this is not an issue, but be aware just in case.

rearviewmirror

Thanks everyone.. Should be mine shortly. :-)

You car correct about the glass sunroof and P/S. The original owner of the car (yes I got the history back that far) actually owned an RX prior to the GSL-SE back in the day, he apparently liked the way the non-P/S car drove. I honestly prefer it w/o PS as well, I think a car this small drives so well w/o it.

The car doesn't have any rust and it hasn't sat for long periods, just never used as a DD.

85 FB

When I picked up my -SE, the P/S pump was bad. After 2 years of going through that, I replaced it. Now, I love having P/S. The car is so much more fun to drive, in my opinion.

rearviewmirror

Surely there must be completely different racks used when a car is P/S or non-P/S. Driving a car that has P/S that doesn't work is a pain to drive, much more of a pain than a car that wasn't built w/ P/S.

85 FB

IIRC, they have the same rack. My car was easy to drive with a bad P/S pump (basically no fluid whatsoever) but when it came to backing into parking spots, it was a small hassle. I've driven vehicles that weren't equipped with P/S period and they were hard as hell to turn. So I agree that a non-P/S equipped 7 is easy to drive, but once I installed the new pump, it opened up a whole new world of smoothness.

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

The P/S and non-P/S cars have different steering boxs and ratios. A P/S car without pump is harder to turn than the non-P/S version. However, some like to run the P/S box without the pump/lines (keep fluid in the box, loop a line input/output) for a quicker ratio.

As for the SE price, it really depends on many things (location, history, mileage, etc.). I think that $3500 is probably a good price. Low mileage/good condition/stock SEs are getting rarer all the time.

cpa7man

iTrader: (2)

Nice car looks to me like you would be happy with it. Let us know when you get it.

I picked up one for $1500, that needs restoration. Interior was intact and in good shape. Needs paint and a rebuild, but runs fine. I should have bought Trochoid's SE housings.

sneezix

Car looks nice, but I hate the color, and not because it's the same as mine. :-D