Transmission won’t go in
10-04-19, 10:31 PM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Transmission won’t go in
Hello, today I changed my rear main seal due to it leaking and I am having issues putting the transmission in all the way there is about an inch of a gap between the engine an transmission. We tried to spin the motor by hand to line up the splines but it won’t go anymore forward does anyone have any suggestions (car is not on a lift, motor is in the car)
10-04-19, 11:11 PM
#2
ancient wizard...
Did you replace anything else besides main seal,like pilot bearing/seal? If you did or packed existing one with grease it can form a hydraulic lock that will not let transmission input shaft enter pilot bearing and leaves transmission @3/4” from back of engine.
Did you use a clutch alignment tool when reinstalling clutch and pressure plate?
Resist temptation to pull trans up to engine with mounting bolts. If it won’t slide up to engine,pull back out and investigate for reason.
Did you use a clutch alignment tool when reinstalling clutch and pressure plate?
Resist temptation to pull trans up to engine with mounting bolts. If it won’t slide up to engine,pull back out and investigate for reason.
10-05-19, 08:55 AM
#4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Did you replace anything else besides main seal,like pilot bearing/seal? If you did or packed existing one with grease it can form a hydraulic lock that will not let transmission input shaft enter pilot bearing and leaves transmission @3/4” from back of engine.
Did you use a clutch alignment tool when reinstalling clutch and pressure plate?
Resist temptation to pull trans up to engine with mounting bolts. If it won’t slide up to engine,pull back out and investigate for reason.
Did you use a clutch alignment tool when reinstalling clutch and pressure plate?
Resist temptation to pull trans up to engine with mounting bolts. If it won’t slide up to engine,pull back out and investigate for reason.
10-05-19, 09:43 AM
#5
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
So, did you guys get it in?
The reason it won't go in is as mentioned above; the pilot bearing seal is creating a hydraulic lock on the input shaft of the trans. This could be due to using an excessive amount of grease, but if you didn't touch it, the input shaft just can't force the air out of the way past the pilot bearing seal.
What works over time is using a clamp method on the trans bosses to GRADUALLY move the Trans toward the engine. Move it a few mm, then wait an hour, advance it a few more mm, then wait an hour. This lets the air gradually escape and makes forward progress possible. You DO NOT want to install longer guide bolts and force it all at once - this can break the mounting bosses off of the trans side.
Go slow, take your time.
What works over time is using a clamp method on the trans bosses to GRADUALLY move the Trans toward the engine. Move it a few mm, then wait an hour, advance it a few more mm, then wait an hour. This lets the air gradually escape and makes forward progress possible. You DO NOT want to install longer guide bolts and force it all at once - this can break the mounting bosses off of the trans side.
Go slow, take your time.
10-05-19, 10:50 AM
#6
I've also fought with this. It can be tricky to get the splines to line up.The is why I like to take the engine and trans out together. The last time I remove the trans, I left the engine in. It took myself, wife, and son to get everything lined up. We where all laying on our backs wiggling the trans until it lined up.
Trending Topics
10-05-19, 02:17 PM
#9
ancient wizard...
Was fairly sure was going to pilot bearing related.
BEFORE you set about taking that bearing out,read some of threads here addressing that procedure...very easy to cause yourself a lot of headache and misery.
Mazda had a special tool for removing and installing pilot bearing. If you don’t have an installation tool measure depth pilot bearing is installed currently so as to duplicate it on install.
You can rent blind bearing puller set from auto parts stores to remove bearing. You only get one or two shots at removing bearing before you have to use “other methods”.
The pilot bearing has a grease seal on top of it from factory. You’ll only be able to get that from a Mazda dealer,the bearing can be found at most parts stores
When you get the bearing,1st thing you should do is fit it on input shaft of transmission to be sure it’s correct one. If you need to get this done soon as possible you can skip grease seal replacement,some do.
I mentioned this in my prior post,there’s such a thing as putting too much grease in pilot bearing.
Once installed,put your little finger in can of wheel bearing grease and get a small dab and work that into the rollers turning them back and forth to where they all have a film of grease on them- that’s all that’s needed.
Good luck with bearing r&r.
BEFORE you set about taking that bearing out,read some of threads here addressing that procedure...very easy to cause yourself a lot of headache and misery.
Mazda had a special tool for removing and installing pilot bearing. If you don’t have an installation tool measure depth pilot bearing is installed currently so as to duplicate it on install.
You can rent blind bearing puller set from auto parts stores to remove bearing. You only get one or two shots at removing bearing before you have to use “other methods”.
The pilot bearing has a grease seal on top of it from factory. You’ll only be able to get that from a Mazda dealer,the bearing can be found at most parts stores
When you get the bearing,1st thing you should do is fit it on input shaft of transmission to be sure it’s correct one. If you need to get this done soon as possible you can skip grease seal replacement,some do.
I mentioned this in my prior post,there’s such a thing as putting too much grease in pilot bearing.
Once installed,put your little finger in can of wheel bearing grease and get a small dab and work that into the rollers turning them back and forth to where they all have a film of grease on them- that’s all that’s needed.
Good luck with bearing r&r.
10-06-19, 11:11 AM
#11
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
I tried all the tricks - no go.
And that was with the engine on a stand in my garage, and just made a mess; grease, wadded up paper towels, AutoZone puller... nothing was working. I bit the bullet and bought the Mazdatrix tool, which made it a 2-minute job. Got the Mazdatrix Pilot Bearing Installer, which let me install the replacement in another 2 minutes.
Having the right tool is really important for some of these jobs that require it.
I've used a Dremel Tool and a carbide cutter to remove the race before while laying under the car, which is about like performing brain surgery in a telephone booth with a flashlight.
Having the right tool is really important for some of these jobs that require it.
I've used a Dremel Tool and a carbide cutter to remove the race before while laying under the car, which is about like performing brain surgery in a telephone booth with a flashlight.
The following users liked this post:
Gian (10-11-19)
10-06-19, 02:19 PM
#12
I too have fought with pilot bearings in the past. I bit the bullet and bought the Mazda pilot bearing removal tool and it has been a blessing to own. I've used it multiple times and it makes the job an easy job. I'm done messing around using the wrong tool or backyard methods for removal. The correct to for the job is the right way to go.
The following users liked this post:
GSLSEforme (10-06-19)
10-07-19, 01:53 PM
#14
Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: California
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hello, today I changed my rear main seal due to it leaking and I am having issues putting the transmission in all the way there is about an inch of a gap between the engine an transmission. We tried to spin the motor by hand to line up the splines but it won’t go anymore forward does anyone have any suggestions (car is not on a lift, motor is in the car)
I can feel the transmission go into the splines of the clutch so I know that it is going in.
Im going to look at it again today but if anyone has any other recommendations on what the problem might be, let me know.
And yes, while i was in there, i did replace the pilot bearing. The other one was completely shot, I could not even find any bearing needles lmao.
10-10-19, 06:58 PM
#16
It took me ~2 hours of wrestling mine by hand to get it perfectly lined up. I kept thinking I had it straight but in reality I didn't. After a long struggle it finally slipped into place. Take your time, move it around, and use a transmission jack if you have one!
10-10-19, 07:04 PM
#17
Sucker for Punishment
Doing this without a hoist is a serious PITA. I feel that the extra work to just pull the engine is worth the instant gratification you get when you see that tranny slide right in.
EDIT: If you don't have an engine crane this is also a PITA.
EDIT: If you don't have an engine crane this is also a PITA.
Last edited by Rotary Alkymist; 10-10-19 at 07:07 PM.
The following 4 users liked this post by ItzFitzyFitz:
02-24-20, 01:19 PM
#19
Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: California
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Sideways7
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
34
11-20-08 10:11 PM
nopistons13
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
7
05-19-07 10:17 PM