Tension rod Kits
#1
Tension rod Kits
It seems I cant find these kits. I know G-Force was making them. 7s only made a few too. But now I can't find anyone that has them for sale.
I have someone that will make them for me. But first I want to know if there is any interest for them
I know this is more for racers. Mostly because of rules, And T3 and other mono ball set ups are readily available. Though, these transmit less noise then the Mono ball/Heim joint style.
So I can get kits made for $60-$80. If I can get a few people to let me know they are interested.
I have someone that will make them for me. But first I want to know if there is any interest for them
I know this is more for racers. Mostly because of rules, And T3 and other mono ball set ups are readily available. Though, these transmit less noise then the Mono ball/Heim joint style.
So I can get kits made for $60-$80. If I can get a few people to let me know they are interested.
#3
I'd be interested. I don't like the factory set up. But dont want to spend the money on noisy system. Not familiar with this, but I'd take it this replaces the end nut, bushing and large washer? And a crows foot still needed for the back nut to torque it to specs? Thanks in advanced.
#5
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
The front Radius Arms on the SA / FB are designed to locate the Lower Control Arm fore and aft, while also preventing excessive movement that affects caster under braking. If the Radius Arm bushings (*basically huge rubber washers sandwiched between huge metal washers) have gotten old, or the rubber bushings have deteriorated over time, they allow too much movement, which results in darty handling under heavy braking, as the weight transfer allows the wheels to lose caster, increasing steering sensitivity - and right when you're most likely to feel it.
One old school racer solution was to install a Heim Joint (metal pillow-ball bushing, sometimes with a Delrin plastic insert) at the stock Radius Arm mount, but this is a very tight tolerance fitting and results in noisy front suspension and transmission of shock and vibration through the Radius Arm and Lower Control Arm. For a pure track car, this is a good solution, as it will hold adjustment well and prevent flex under braking.
These radiused bushings shown above seem to be a ball-and-socket design for the bushings which would allow for rotation - which you want - but severely limit fore and aft movement. Depending on what materials were used, they could transmit and shock and noise, or be fairly quiet if made of high durometer polymers or rubber; maybe the designer can chime in here.
Point being, for street driving, you could go with polymer bushings of the conventional design and get 80% of the benefit of special joints built for race purposes. That's what I've done my DD SE and it really increases the feeling in the front without being too harsh on city streets. I will say that it's prudent to check your 19mm nuts at the front that locate the Radius Arm as my driver's side nut came loose last year and resulted in squirrely steering under heavy braking - like trying to drive you into oncoming traffic. I found that the front nut had vibrated loose over time and backed itself all the way up to the Cotter Pin. These are easy to inspect by looking inside the front air inlet, and should be part of any visual inspection when you're down there doing stuff.
One old school racer solution was to install a Heim Joint (metal pillow-ball bushing, sometimes with a Delrin plastic insert) at the stock Radius Arm mount, but this is a very tight tolerance fitting and results in noisy front suspension and transmission of shock and vibration through the Radius Arm and Lower Control Arm. For a pure track car, this is a good solution, as it will hold adjustment well and prevent flex under braking.
These radiused bushings shown above seem to be a ball-and-socket design for the bushings which would allow for rotation - which you want - but severely limit fore and aft movement. Depending on what materials were used, they could transmit and shock and noise, or be fairly quiet if made of high durometer polymers or rubber; maybe the designer can chime in here.
Point being, for street driving, you could go with polymer bushings of the conventional design and get 80% of the benefit of special joints built for race purposes. That's what I've done my DD SE and it really increases the feeling in the front without being too harsh on city streets. I will say that it's prudent to check your 19mm nuts at the front that locate the Radius Arm as my driver's side nut came loose last year and resulted in squirrely steering under heavy braking - like trying to drive you into oncoming traffic. I found that the front nut had vibrated loose over time and backed itself all the way up to the Cotter Pin. These are easy to inspect by looking inside the front air inlet, and should be part of any visual inspection when you're down there doing stuff.
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Gian (11-04-19)
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#8
@KansasCityREPU Yes and no. Yes rod end or "Hiem" joints work and are ultimately better. But are not legal in SCCA IT, Pro7 or Spec7 rules.They also transmit more road noise.
This kit gives you the benefits that rod ends do. They are aimed more for racers complying to rule sets.With a side benefit of less noise.
This kit gives you the benefits that rod ends do. They are aimed more for racers complying to rule sets.With a side benefit of less noise.
#10
needs more track time
iTrader: (16)
@KansasCityREPU Yes and no. Yes rod end or "Hiem" joints work and are ultimately better. But are not legal in SCCA IT, Pro7 or Spec7 rules.They also transmit more road noise.
This kit gives you the benefits that rod ends do. They are aimed more for racers complying to rule sets.With a side benefit of less noise.
This kit gives you the benefits that rod ends do. They are aimed more for racers complying to rule sets.With a side benefit of less noise.
#12
Have you tried sending a letter to the CRB? Tell them the existing parts are NLA and drivers of 1st gen rX7s need a solution. Ask for the rod end aka heim joints as that is readily available. This won't really provide a performance improvement so I can't see why they wouldn't allow...
#17
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (3)
@KansasCityREPU Yes and no. Yes rod end or "Hiem" joints work and are ultimately better. But are not legal in SCCA IT, Pro7 or Spec7 rules.They also transmit more road noise.
This kit gives you the benefits that rod ends do. They are aimed more for racers complying to rule sets.With a side benefit of less noise.
This kit gives you the benefits that rod ends do. They are aimed more for racers complying to rule sets.With a side benefit of less noise.
From the March 2019 GCR - Improved Touring Category Specifications 9.1.3.5.d.6.:
Bushing material, including that used to mount a suspension subframe to the chassis, is unrestricted. This includes the use of spherical bearings, so long as no suspension component is modified to facilitate their installation. Retention of spherical bearings by use of tack welds is allowed, as long as the welds serve no other purpose.
The problem with this design relative to the SCCA is how the forward rod end is attached to the bracket. On my Improved Touring RX7 we installed a bearing cup in the OE bushing location. Also, my RX7 had spherical bearings in every suspension location....from back in the year 2000.
#18
Seem that rule has changed. Wounder if Street Prepared rules changed too.
Things have changed for me too. I'm moving up to ST3. NASA new ST rules are much different. So I don't need these and the guy, who also does the same type for the 510 world, has stopped communicating with me. But if they become available, I will post here.
Things have changed for me too. I'm moving up to ST3. NASA new ST rules are much different. So I don't need these and the guy, who also does the same type for the 510 world, has stopped communicating with me. But if they become available, I will post here.
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alexdimen
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