Transmission hybrid questions.
#1
Transmission hybrid questions.
I know there is a 2 to 3 inch difference in the sa and fb transmissions but my question is can you make a hybrid between the two?
Is it possible to take the shifter piece of a sa transmission and put it on a fb transmission to keep from cutting up the center console of you car?
Or can you swap gear boxes between the two?
The fb's have a remote shifter so I just don't know how that effects everything.
Is it possible to take the shifter piece of a sa transmission and put it on a fb transmission to keep from cutting up the center console of you car?
Or can you swap gear boxes between the two?
The fb's have a remote shifter so I just don't know how that effects everything.
#5
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I know there is a 2 to 3 inch difference in the sa and fb transmissions but my question is can you make a hybrid between the two?
Is it possible to take the shifter piece of a sa transmission and put it on a fb transmission to keep from cutting up the center console of you car?
Or can you swap gear boxes between the two?
The fb's have a remote shifter so I just don't know how that effects everything.
Is it possible to take the shifter piece of a sa transmission and put it on a fb transmission to keep from cutting up the center console of you car?
Or can you swap gear boxes between the two?
The fb's have a remote shifter so I just don't know how that effects everything.
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so basically the guts of a later 1980 transmission are the same as the guts of an 81+ trans, so swapping the tail housing was easy. it may be that the 79 stuff works too, and actually since the only difference on the tailshaft housing is the shift rod, this would be easy to change over
#10
talking head
all the rear sections swap.. even those from piston variants
( the forward most piston engine "M" gearbox position is desirable for those with r100 )
there is a couple of minor pitfalls
often you have to swap over the appropriate fingers
( ie.. if using a s1 rear section on a later box,, you need to grab the claws / fingers )
and as noted ,, very early version had grub screws,, later ones have dowel pins
and some later ones have a detent piston on one of the claws to stop it jumping out of gear
its a swap i have done many times ( and ive also modified dozens of boxes for revised shifter position using the old 103mm measure and cut shut for extension housing )
pins
different tail housing shift position types
half on floor is s1 position .. next to it is the shifter position from an 85 courier , next to that is the s2 box ( sans shifter turret ), with a 103mm cut shut to approximate the s1 position
and foreground in a 12aT gearbox.. with rear section removed
..i had just put together a s1 box.. with the 12at fingers .. and the 12at shifter extension housing ,, back into the HB cosmo it came out from
( this 12at box is buggered and will typically overselect at the hubs, leaving two gear engages and the box locked up , and needs the hub selection forks bronzed up )
the 103 mm cut shut to a s4T "R" box extension housing .. "M" box principle is identical ( indeed the shift extensions are derived from each other )
( the forward most piston engine "M" gearbox position is desirable for those with r100 )
there is a couple of minor pitfalls
often you have to swap over the appropriate fingers
( ie.. if using a s1 rear section on a later box,, you need to grab the claws / fingers )
and as noted ,, very early version had grub screws,, later ones have dowel pins
and some later ones have a detent piston on one of the claws to stop it jumping out of gear
its a swap i have done many times ( and ive also modified dozens of boxes for revised shifter position using the old 103mm measure and cut shut for extension housing )
pins
different tail housing shift position types
half on floor is s1 position .. next to it is the shifter position from an 85 courier , next to that is the s2 box ( sans shifter turret ), with a 103mm cut shut to approximate the s1 position
and foreground in a 12aT gearbox.. with rear section removed
..i had just put together a s1 box.. with the 12at fingers .. and the 12at shifter extension housing ,, back into the HB cosmo it came out from
( this 12at box is buggered and will typically overselect at the hubs, leaving two gear engages and the box locked up , and needs the hub selection forks bronzed up )
the 103 mm cut shut to a s4T "R" box extension housing .. "M" box principle is identical ( indeed the shift extensions are derived from each other )
#11
So making a hybrid is possible?
If we had both transmission lying side-by-side a direct swap is a possibility?
You will need to grab the claws and fingers from the s1 transmission?
Is this something that can be done in a garage or parking lot or is a professional required?
If we had both transmission lying side-by-side a direct swap is a possibility?
You will need to grab the claws and fingers from the s1 transmission?
Is this something that can be done in a garage or parking lot or is a professional required?
#12
talking head
you can do it at home.. all you need is the pin punch, a couple of sockets/ spanners and some RTV silicone
there is several methods to get the rear section back on , some move all the fingers to the neutral position and drop the rear section on with a slight twist to get the oil feed rail in
others select reverse in both fingers and in the shifter tower .. still a bit of a knack to it
others drop the roll pin out of the shifter cup inside the shift tower, and remove the selector rod entirely,, fitting this into the fingers,, then sliding the rear section back over the lot
there is several methods to get the rear section back on , some move all the fingers to the neutral position and drop the rear section on with a slight twist to get the oil feed rail in
others select reverse in both fingers and in the shifter tower .. still a bit of a knack to it
others drop the roll pin out of the shifter cup inside the shift tower, and remove the selector rod entirely,, fitting this into the fingers,, then sliding the rear section back over the lot
#14
talking head
go with what fits,, you have two lots of everything.. i expect both will be roll pin anyhow
.. at worst you may need a tap and drill bit but dont think it will go that far
( and if fitting s1 rear housing then disregard the last suggestion on how to fit the rear housing as it will not apply to the "internal" type select rod )
.. at worst you may need a tap and drill bit but dont think it will go that far
( and if fitting s1 rear housing then disregard the last suggestion on how to fit the rear housing as it will not apply to the "internal" type select rod )
#16
talking head
nope , stick everything to neutral and drop the rear on with some angle , then a twist to both clear the drip rail , and engage the selector rod into the claws