kickinwing

Ok so we are trying to replace the clutch in my 1st gens trans, we got the driveshaft disconnected all the exhaust shields removed etc. We pulled 7 bolts out of the transmission but we can get it to break loose from the engine, we have tried everything we shook it pulled it, and shook it some more and it still wont slide back so we can work on the clutch. So I was wondering if anyone had any ideas as to why my transmission won't release from where it is at. Also when we shake the engine it has spots where you can see it is wiggling away from the engine slightly but it isn't enough to even slide like a putty knife or anything into it if that makes any sense.

cletus

Did you get the ones under the starter?

kickinwing

Yes there is one left and I thought it went to the transmission but I am pretty sure it is part of the engine and isn't holding the trans in anyway.

kickinwing

Trans is out and sitting on a Jack we already replaced the throw out bearing but where is the pilot bearing located? And how do I remove it/the fly wheel?

Crit

iTrader: (6)

You need a pilot bearing puller. The bearing is in a hole in the back of the e-shaft and it supports the input shaft when the clutch is disengaged. If you replace it, be sure to replace the seal as well. It's always listed separately, and not included in clutch kits. Many previous owners do a clutch job, or have one done, and never even know to replace the seal, so it's often missing. Autozone/Advance has a pilot bearing puller that you can borrow that sucks moderate *****, but sometimes works well. You can also chisel it out (break up the bearing) or use the badass tool available at Mazdatrix and Atkins.

On second thought, a local dealer might also have that tool.... Anyway, you pull the bearing out with a puller, replace it by tapping it in with a socket, and then tapping the seal in behind it.

teddyrx2

iTrader: (33)

+1

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

Sometimes it helps to toss the new pilot bearing in the freezer before installing. Grease it up, toss in a ziplock bag, and freeze. It'll make it easier to slide in.

If you get creative, you can make your own puller of sorts. What I have done in the past is grind a washer so it looks almost like a rectangle (with round edges on the short sides). Put a nut through the pilot bearing, then the modified washer, and then a bolt. You sometimes need an air socket wrench to get started to keep the nut from slipping. When you tighten the bolt, the washer/nut will push the pilot bearing out.

Another way is to do the opposite. Slide a bolt with a modified head (or modified washer) head first into the pilot bearing, put a socket (say 16mm or 18mm) over the bolt, then add a washer/nut. When you tighten, the bolt will pull the pilot bearing out into the cup (socket).

Either way works pretty well and it is a cheap option. Might take a few tries on the grinder to get the washer just right (needs to slide in the pilot, but catch the edges when tilted up).

Crit

iTrader: (6)

The only time I've had the parts-store loan-a-tool puller work, I had to file it. Take a hand file and work the edges of the puller, sharpening the little ledges until they're sharp, and get the inner radius of it nice and tight. There's not much bearing to grab when the puller expands, so you want to get as much bite on the backside as you can.

I like Kent's idea, though, of threading a bolt into the rollers of the bearing (maybe even an NPT tap) and just pulling it out. I've never tried it, and can't tell you what sizes to use, but it sounds interesting.

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

I'll see if I can find my puller and will post a pic. I'm going to help a guy with a tranny swap in about two weeks, so I need to find it or make another anyway.

Once to get it to fit, you just need to get the nut started (easier said than done since you can't get a hold of the nut). Once it catches, the tension will keep it from spinning. The bolt pushes against the e-shaft and out the pilot bearing comes. The bolt head first (with a socket for the receiving cup) is probably the easier option as you can hold the bolt when you put on the nut. Probably best to use a long, smallish bolt (M8, M10) with a small head and use a modified washer for this option.

Crit's experience with the rental pullers seems to match the experience of others. The autozone pullers do not seem to fit our pilot bearings well and often have to be modified a bit to work. The Mazda tool would be really nice, but most people do not want to spend $120-$140 for a tool that they will probably use only once or twice.

Crit: I do not grab the rollers with this puller. The washer slides in (laying down) behind the pilot and is tipped up (catches the edges of the bearing). The bolt then slides through the washer and into the nut. If you have an air socket wrench, you can spin it fast enough to get the nut started without being able to grab on to it. Get some tension on it and finish with the air ratchet or a normal ratchet.

Crit

iTrader: (6)

Makes sense. FWIW, if anyone in the Atlanta area wants to borrow the Mazdatrix puller, they can borrow mine for a refundable deposit (just 'cause it's an expensive tool).

By the way, guys, the Mazdatrix tool is a freaking brilliant setup. 20 seconds, every time, no problems.

74RX4

iTrader: (10)

Clutch and transmission pictures...https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/84-gsl-gslse-clutch-transmission-pictures-743410/
Pilot bearing is several posts down.