tranny fluid + rotary starting
#1
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tranny fluid + rotary starting
anyone have suggestions if a particular kind of tranny fluid is best to use and how it should be used when added inside of a 12a which has been sitting for an unknow but long ( years) period of time.
any comments, aggrements or not, thoughts variations, experiences and results appreciated.
regards:
any comments, aggrements or not, thoughts variations, experiences and results appreciated.
regards:
#2
If you're talking about gear oil for a manual tranny, I prefer Royal Purple synth. I've used both Redline and Royal Purple, and I really feel the RP made everything work smoother ... and I did notice a slight increase in fuel milage, believe it or not.
Also, I like Neo gear oil (I use that in my rear diff), but it's more pricey than either RP or Redline.
Also, I like Neo gear oil (I use that in my rear diff), but it's more pricey than either RP or Redline.
#3
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If you're talking about unsiezing an engine, any kind of oil will work. ATF, MMO, motor oil, gear oil, penetrating oil... just use a LOT in every coneivable orifice and be patient.
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Thanks for your replys:
Engine is not seized but when they sit for years I believe tne rotor seals (to housing) my not float
on their springs well due to sitting in one position for so long with deposits surrounding them and the rubber seals not having any fluids near them will start to go the leaky seal death root soon after engine starting and use and comming under pressure again. ATF has a rubber-gasket seal conditioning element in it and it is quite watery (non viscous)so it will penetrate and also penetrate the metal seals, help dislodge deposits around them and help them float faster and better; hence some compression to start the engine.
Anyone have an idea as to which ATF is best for this or will another fluid be better?
Also as I understand, once the engine starts, gently let it idle and warm up them shut off engine for a complete cooldown. This allows for all seals to "find their place without undue pressure" this should be done several times before reving engine much as any weak seal will probably end up giving way much sooner than if the above was done.
It is hard enough to start an engine that has been sitting for years (when all adjustments have been made), pouring in a large quantity of ATF seems to be counter to starting as the engine is drowning in fluid and a huge amount puddles in exhaust to smoke.
What do you think?
accuspeed - what milage increase did you get? and spacifically by doing what? what that means is that less energy is going up in heat/wear and more to the the rear wheels.
Engine is not seized but when they sit for years I believe tne rotor seals (to housing) my not float
on their springs well due to sitting in one position for so long with deposits surrounding them and the rubber seals not having any fluids near them will start to go the leaky seal death root soon after engine starting and use and comming under pressure again. ATF has a rubber-gasket seal conditioning element in it and it is quite watery (non viscous)so it will penetrate and also penetrate the metal seals, help dislodge deposits around them and help them float faster and better; hence some compression to start the engine.
Anyone have an idea as to which ATF is best for this or will another fluid be better?
Also as I understand, once the engine starts, gently let it idle and warm up them shut off engine for a complete cooldown. This allows for all seals to "find their place without undue pressure" this should be done several times before reving engine much as any weak seal will probably end up giving way much sooner than if the above was done.
It is hard enough to start an engine that has been sitting for years (when all adjustments have been made), pouring in a large quantity of ATF seems to be counter to starting as the engine is drowning in fluid and a huge amount puddles in exhaust to smoke.
What do you think?
accuspeed - what milage increase did you get? and spacifically by doing what? what that means is that less energy is going up in heat/wear and more to the the rear wheels.
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#8
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You are correct. Use ATF to help clean the carbon off of the internals and it also helps the motor to fire up. You pour ATF in the carb or spark plug holes. If its been sitting for awhile, change the oil from the get go. Then change it again in like 500 miles or so. If you are trying to recondition the internal seals, pour some atf tranny sealer in the oil(oilpan not inside the combustion area). It will recondition the oil seals and make for less smoke.
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