trailer hitch
09-18-07, 09:48 PM
#3
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I had one for years before the final paint and widebody went on.
It was more than capable,I delivered up to 1000lbs of rental equipment (for work) with my car, on a regular basis.I even towed my little D50 pickup home once on a dolly after the timing belt broke.You have to watch the tongue weight,but the pulling and handling is just fine if you need to haul say,a dirtbike,jetski or small fishing boat.Its VERY convenient if you dont have a truck or vehicle with a bumper hitch.
I also hooked up a small enclosed Uhaul trailer once and road tripped 400 miles down to Santa Barbara to pickup my widebody kit from Mariah.I hit 120mph a couple times and smoked an Integra trying to beat me, coming down an on-ramp......he didnt try to pursue!!....heh,heh.
Got mine through Uhaul (I was a dealer).....its a simple bolt on hitch made by Brophy.I cut the ball mount tang off and welded a 1"x 1" square tube in its place for a Class1 receiver hitch.It was cleaner that way and allowed me to raise the ball to a better height......and the ball didnt permanently block my license plate, since I could pull it out easily (you can get ticketed for obscuring the plate #'s)
It was more than capable,I delivered up to 1000lbs of rental equipment (for work) with my car, on a regular basis.I even towed my little D50 pickup home once on a dolly after the timing belt broke.You have to watch the tongue weight,but the pulling and handling is just fine if you need to haul say,a dirtbike,jetski or small fishing boat.Its VERY convenient if you dont have a truck or vehicle with a bumper hitch.
I also hooked up a small enclosed Uhaul trailer once and road tripped 400 miles down to Santa Barbara to pickup my widebody kit from Mariah.I hit 120mph a couple times and smoked an Integra trying to beat me, coming down an on-ramp......he didnt try to pursue!!....heh,heh.
Got mine through Uhaul (I was a dealer).....its a simple bolt on hitch made by Brophy.I cut the ball mount tang off and welded a 1"x 1" square tube in its place for a Class1 receiver hitch.It was cleaner that way and allowed me to raise the ball to a better height......and the ball didnt permanently block my license plate, since I could pull it out easily (you can get ticketed for obscuring the plate #'s)
09-18-07, 11:29 PM
#5
13b P-port on a budget
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I am looking to just pull a small tire trailer to autocross events and possibly pull a parts RX7 back home to be taken apart. I pmed you.
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09-19-07, 12:22 PM
#9
Pull another RX-7? No way. Sure you can get it going down the road. What about stopping it? A car on a tow dolly will push a 1/2 ton pickup.
09-19-07, 12:33 PM
#10
This is my trailer. I put about 12,000 miles on it since construction. Tows great. In the original configuration, I still had a fuel tank and pump in it and used a dry-break to re-fill the main tank of my peripheral port tow vehicle. Now that I tow it with a GSL-SE, I removed the tank which makes the trailer lighter and more stable.
If you want a receiver hitch, I made a bunch to sell. $125 plus shipping. It replaces the rear bumper and you just put a bumper cover over it, with a notch where the reciever is. Very stealthy. I drive with mine on full-time and no one notices. I will post some pictures if you are interested.
If you want a receiver hitch, I made a bunch to sell. $125 plus shipping. It replaces the rear bumper and you just put a bumper cover over it, with a notch where the reciever is. Very stealthy. I drive with mine on full-time and no one notices. I will post some pictures if you are interested.
09-19-07, 01:04 PM
#12
Here is a picture of the prototype hitch back when we made it in 2003.
Here it what it looks like with a bumper cover over it. (The painter didn't understand that I wanted to keep the black trim...oh well).
Here it what it looks like with a bumper cover over it. (The painter didn't understand that I wanted to keep the black trim...oh well).
09-19-07, 01:08 PM
#13
Oh, and the license plate bracket is part of the bumper hitch. It has safety chain hook holes as well. For the trailer wiring, I used a powered converter from U-haul that converts the separate amber turn signals to combined brake/turn lights. That makes it compatible with typical trailer light setups.
09-19-07, 11:44 PM
#14
FB+FC=F-ME
No arguement there.
Ive pulled some crazy loads with my RX and my Samurai.......but I tow 10,000+lb loads everyday behind regular pickups, for a living.I wouldnt recommend hauling another car with a 1st gen, except in an emergency.Like I said,about 1000lbs is doable and controlable,but youll feel it back there.
Im very cautious about renting out my trailers to anyone without a 3/4 ton or better.Its all about controling mass and safe braking,and the light little 1st gen does lack in those areas, when towing.
09-22-07, 12:39 AM
#18
FB+FC=F-ME
Heh,heh......luckily,in my line of work payload has little bearing, since I deal with trailers and trailered equipment almost exclusively.I laugh when I see guys come in with their little old Toyota mini PU's that say "3/4 TON" on the tailgate.They dont understand that it doesnt mean they are ok to TOW the same load as a "real" 3/4TON full size truck.Ill set them up with a 5x8 trailer,max weight 3000lbs including the trailer,but nothing more.
I also **** off a LOT of people who come in with their "3/4 TON" Bronco,Blazer,Tahoe,Expedition,Durango,Navigator or Tundra and want to haul out an 8000lb tractor on a 3000lb trailer.....aint happening.And I dont care if its got a 454 with Procharger......pulling power has nothing to do with safety 99% of the time.Sure,some 1/2TON trucks can haul 10,000lbs,but only with a weight distributing hitch,sway links and electric brake controllers.Ive yet to see a 1/2TON come in setup for it and all my trailers have surge brakes anyhow.
09-22-07, 08:59 PM
#20
FB+FC=F-ME
Anything can be done if you have the nerve to try and concentration enough to make safe decisions while underway.
I get all kinds of crazy looks hauling my boat with my Samurai.It looks like a tug pulling a cruise ship,but she does OK.It takes a bit of special attention and smooth inputs from your feet and hands to make it stable and controlled,but it works.
I get all kinds of crazy looks hauling my boat with my Samurai.It looks like a tug pulling a cruise ship,but she does OK.It takes a bit of special attention and smooth inputs from your feet and hands to make it stable and controlled,but it works.
09-26-07, 03:35 PM
#22
13b P-port on a budget
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Ok I am gonna work on the wiring the next couple of day anyone do this before that can help would be great. Its a simple 4 white i will ground to the body, brown goes to the taillight whigh is ether green or red with green stip, yellow is left turn, green is white. I get confused left would be drivers side right? both side also seam to use the same color wire green with yellow stip but that dont seam right.
09-26-07, 10:25 PM
#23
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The vast majority of trailers have a 3 wire system which integrates the turn signals and brakes into one bulb per side......like many American cars do.
Most Imports and many modern Domestic cars have whats called a 5 wire system,where there are seperate turnsignals and brake lights.
A standard 4-way Flat trailer plug has 4 wires.....
White - Ground......not 100% necessary since the ground will travel though the hitch.
Green - Right turn/brake
Yellow - Left turn/brake
Brown - Tail/marker lights
Some 4 flats (especially Uhaul) have 2 brown wires, or brown/yellow and brown/green wires.......these are just seperate running light wires for each side.The yellow and green stripes on the 2 brown wires simply indicate the side of the trailer the wire leads to.
On a 3 wire car,its a direct setup with no issues except a heavy duty flasher to handle the extra load of the trailer bulbs.On a 5-wire car,the 3 wire setup will not work without some mods or comprimises.Running lights are no problem,but the turn/brakes are.You can either hook up brake lights only,or turnsignals only but in order to hook up both,you either need to install a diode converter box to split the signal or attach 2 seperate turnsignals to the trailer and run 2 more wires out to them.The diode box is easy enough to buy and install,it will cut out the brake light signal to the appropriate side when a turnsignal is activated.When no turnsignals are on,both brake lights will resume working.
Most Imports and many modern Domestic cars have whats called a 5 wire system,where there are seperate turnsignals and brake lights.
A standard 4-way Flat trailer plug has 4 wires.....
White - Ground......not 100% necessary since the ground will travel though the hitch.
Green - Right turn/brake
Yellow - Left turn/brake
Brown - Tail/marker lights
Some 4 flats (especially Uhaul) have 2 brown wires, or brown/yellow and brown/green wires.......these are just seperate running light wires for each side.The yellow and green stripes on the 2 brown wires simply indicate the side of the trailer the wire leads to.
On a 3 wire car,its a direct setup with no issues except a heavy duty flasher to handle the extra load of the trailer bulbs.On a 5-wire car,the 3 wire setup will not work without some mods or comprimises.Running lights are no problem,but the turn/brakes are.You can either hook up brake lights only,or turnsignals only but in order to hook up both,you either need to install a diode converter box to split the signal or attach 2 seperate turnsignals to the trailer and run 2 more wires out to them.The diode box is easy enough to buy and install,it will cut out the brake light signal to the appropriate side when a turnsignal is activated.When no turnsignals are on,both brake lights will resume working.
09-27-07, 12:54 AM
#25
hehe i put a 1ton of 1/4minus gravel in my 1ton toyota poor thing was hurrting my leafsprings were banana the wrong way and i could only drive 35mph on the highway lol
so just cause it say's 1ton dont mean it can handle lol..
was fun thos luckt i didnt pop my tire,
so just cause it say's 1ton dont mean it can handle lol..
was fun thos luckt i didnt pop my tire,
