titanium?
hey guys,
i was just thinking of ways to spend money i dont have and came up with the idea of using titanium in the engine. do you guys think there would be any benefits in using titanium for apex seals or maybe stationary gears? any other ideas you guys think would be cool?
ttyl,
joe
i was just thinking of ways to spend money i dont have and came up with the idea of using titanium in the engine. do you guys think there would be any benefits in using titanium for apex seals or maybe stationary gears? any other ideas you guys think would be cool?
ttyl,
joe
-check the temperatures at which Titanium softens and liquifies to ensure it can withstand that level of heat
-check it's dimensional stability across a heat range to see how much it expands/contracts. If it'll be too loose to seal when cold or to tight to allow a rotor to spin when hot, you're screwed
Someone proposed magnesium rotors a few weeks ago, singing the praises of how such a lightweight rotor would improve the engine, without realising that magnesium actually burns quite readily.
-check it's dimensional stability across a heat range to see how much it expands/contracts. If it'll be too loose to seal when cold or to tight to allow a rotor to spin when hot, you're screwed
Someone proposed magnesium rotors a few weeks ago, singing the praises of how such a lightweight rotor would improve the engine, without realising that magnesium actually burns quite readily.
ok i found somewhere that a certain alloy (they call it alpha alloy) can be treated to resist up to 1000 degrees farenheit. that is also with very little creep. yeah magnesium is a bad idea. my dad used to throw oldd VW blocks made of magnesium into bonfires, run a safe distance away, and watch the show. hehe. anyone else have opinions or ideas on this titanium thing?
My Brother owns a factory which makes turbine blades for jet engines and guided missiles all milled from titanium. Thus it is unlikely to be a problem except the cost which even the aviation industry thinks high.
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Titanium is highly notch sensitive. That means cracks start easily at the slightest nick, gouge, or scratch.
Also, ask anyone who's ever rode a bike with Ti parts... That stuff is flexible as all hell. Ti seatposts, stems, and handlebars make it feel like you're riding a noodle. Solution is to increase the cross-sections for increased rigidity, but this isn't a possibility when dealing with things of a fixed size like in a preexisting design.
Also, ask anyone who's ever rode a bike with Ti parts... That stuff is flexible as all hell. Ti seatposts, stems, and handlebars make it feel like you're riding a noodle. Solution is to increase the cross-sections for increased rigidity, but this isn't a possibility when dealing with things of a fixed size like in a preexisting design.
Hm peejay, you ride mountain?
BUY MY CROSS COUNTRY BIKE!!!
um... oh yeah... ti..... Yeah its great. Really rubbery tho.
Full suspension TI mountain bikes dont need a rear pivot, and they have around 2.5-3" rear travel. REALLLL bendy them's is.
BUY MY CROSS COUNTRY BIKE!!!
um... oh yeah... ti..... Yeah its great. Really rubbery tho.
Full suspension TI mountain bikes dont need a rear pivot, and they have around 2.5-3" rear travel. REALLLL bendy them's is.
They use pure, 3Al/2.5V, and 6Al/4V depending on several factors. (For instance 6Al/4V is incredibly hard to work so it's not used for tubing, but it's good for dropouts and other weld-on bracketry)
Titanium, as well as aluminum, are significantly LESS rigid than steel. However, they are both much lighter, so they can increase the cross section of the metal (huge diameter frame tubing, for example) to increase the stiffness. For parts that must be a fixed dimension, though, such as handlebars or seatposts which must be a standard diameter, you do not have this option and you really feel how whippy the stuff is.
ioTus I've been paring down my collection
I went from about 20 bikes to 3 main ones. I stayed away from Ti, because it's really not significantly lighter for the money. My cross country/trials bike weighs about 22lb and is laterally stiffer than plaster, as opposed to my 20-lb 70's Vitus-tubed steel road bike (it's very retro, I felt ashamed for putting clipless pedals on it!) which I cannot hammer uphill on or the frame flex will cause the chain to come off on the front... and my "normal" bike is a 30lb full suspension bike (Schwinn URT "Sweet Spot" design) with fenders and slicks on it - call it a complete mutt and a bit confused about its mission in life. 
At my peak I weighed 190lb and I went through parts like I was eating them. I grew to hate titanium.
I'll admit, it was nice to feel how my (lighter, weaker) friends' bikes were a tad lighter.
And I'm just about to go back to the garage and straighten the rear wheel on the roadie, again... *sigh* Too worried about theft to ride the valuable bikes to the store!
Titanium, as well as aluminum, are significantly LESS rigid than steel. However, they are both much lighter, so they can increase the cross section of the metal (huge diameter frame tubing, for example) to increase the stiffness. For parts that must be a fixed dimension, though, such as handlebars or seatposts which must be a standard diameter, you do not have this option and you really feel how whippy the stuff is.
ioTus I've been paring down my collection
I went from about 20 bikes to 3 main ones. I stayed away from Ti, because it's really not significantly lighter for the money. My cross country/trials bike weighs about 22lb and is laterally stiffer than plaster, as opposed to my 20-lb 70's Vitus-tubed steel road bike (it's very retro, I felt ashamed for putting clipless pedals on it!) which I cannot hammer uphill on or the frame flex will cause the chain to come off on the front... and my "normal" bike is a 30lb full suspension bike (Schwinn URT "Sweet Spot" design) with fenders and slicks on it - call it a complete mutt and a bit confused about its mission in life. 
At my peak I weighed 190lb and I went through parts like I was eating them. I grew to hate titanium.
I'll admit, it was nice to feel how my (lighter, weaker) friends' bikes were a tad lighter.And I'm just about to go back to the garage and straighten the rear wheel on the roadie, again... *sigh* Too worried about theft to ride the valuable bikes to the store!
Last edited by peejay; Oct 14, 2002 at 07:23 AM.
I've often thought about making parts out of 718 stainless steel. I work at machine shop where we make parts for industrial electric generators. Many of the nuclear power plants require that we use 718 stainless in the steam generators, because it maintains it strength up to 1600 degrees farenheit. Might be good for seals and such. Definitely wouldn't use it for stationary gears, the metal is too flexible. As for stationary gears, I think you're just better off with the old gas nitriding method, as I understand, their failure rate is quite low.
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From: Richland, WA
Originally posted by peejay
They use pure, 3Al/2.5V, and 6Al/4V depending on several factors. (For instance 6Al/4V is incredibly hard to work so it's not used for tubing, but it's good for dropouts and other weld-on bracketry)
Titanium, as well as aluminum, are significantly LESS rigid than steel. However, they are both much lighter, so they can increase the cross section of the metal (huge diameter frame tubing, for example) to increase the stiffness. For parts that must be a fixed dimension, though, such as handlebars or seatposts which must be a standard diameter, you do not have this option and you really feel how whippy the stuff is.
ioTus I've been paring down my collection
I went from about 20 bikes to 3 main ones. I stayed away from Ti, because it's really not significantly lighter for the money. My cross country/trials bike weighs about 22lb and is laterally stiffer than plaster, as opposed to my 20-lb 70's Vitus-tubed steel road bike (it's very retro, I felt ashamed for putting clipless pedals on it!) which I cannot hammer uphill on or the frame flex will cause the chain to come off on the front... and my "normal" bike is a 30lb full suspension bike (Schwinn URT "Sweet Spot" design) with fenders and slicks on it - call it a complete mutt and a bit confused about its mission in life. 
At my peak I weighed 190lb and I went through parts like I was eating them. I grew to hate titanium.
I'll admit, it was nice to feel how my (lighter, weaker) friends' bikes were a tad lighter.
And I'm just about to go back to the garage and straighten the rear wheel on the roadie, again... *sigh* Too worried about theft to ride the valuable bikes to the store!
They use pure, 3Al/2.5V, and 6Al/4V depending on several factors. (For instance 6Al/4V is incredibly hard to work so it's not used for tubing, but it's good for dropouts and other weld-on bracketry)
Titanium, as well as aluminum, are significantly LESS rigid than steel. However, they are both much lighter, so they can increase the cross section of the metal (huge diameter frame tubing, for example) to increase the stiffness. For parts that must be a fixed dimension, though, such as handlebars or seatposts which must be a standard diameter, you do not have this option and you really feel how whippy the stuff is.
ioTus I've been paring down my collection
I went from about 20 bikes to 3 main ones. I stayed away from Ti, because it's really not significantly lighter for the money. My cross country/trials bike weighs about 22lb and is laterally stiffer than plaster, as opposed to my 20-lb 70's Vitus-tubed steel road bike (it's very retro, I felt ashamed for putting clipless pedals on it!) which I cannot hammer uphill on or the frame flex will cause the chain to come off on the front... and my "normal" bike is a 30lb full suspension bike (Schwinn URT "Sweet Spot" design) with fenders and slicks on it - call it a complete mutt and a bit confused about its mission in life. 
At my peak I weighed 190lb and I went through parts like I was eating them. I grew to hate titanium.
I'll admit, it was nice to feel how my (lighter, weaker) friends' bikes were a tad lighter.And I'm just about to go back to the garage and straighten the rear wheel on the roadie, again... *sigh* Too worried about theft to ride the valuable bikes to the store!
Ti wouldn't be my choice for bike frames either. I've seen some really nice Aluminum ones, and some great cromoly steel, double and tripple butted. The problem with both Ti and Al is that it has a considerably shorter fatigue life than steel.
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Joined: Sep 2002
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From: Richland, WA
Originally posted by metalliman
I've often thought about making parts out of 718 stainless steel. I work at machine shop where we make parts for industrial electric generators. Many of the nuclear power plants require that we use 718 stainless in the steam generators, because it maintains it strength up to 1600 degrees farenheit. Might be good for seals and such. Definitely wouldn't use it for stationary gears, the metal is too flexible. As for stationary gears, I think you're just better off with the old gas nitriding method, as I understand, their failure rate is quite low.
I've often thought about making parts out of 718 stainless steel. I work at machine shop where we make parts for industrial electric generators. Many of the nuclear power plants require that we use 718 stainless in the steam generators, because it maintains it strength up to 1600 degrees farenheit. Might be good for seals and such. Definitely wouldn't use it for stationary gears, the metal is too flexible. As for stationary gears, I think you're just better off with the old gas nitriding method, as I understand, their failure rate is quite low.
However, while heat and stress are very important for design in nuclear components, neutronics plays a HUGE role. What that means is that radioactive flux from Alpha, Beta, and Gamma play a very large part in the life of a component. Alpha and Beta will actually plate out on the metal surfaces and change the metals grain structure, and gamma has similar effects to thermal stresses.
The largest reason for using high quality stainless is so there is no galvanic corrosion passed to the fuel bundles. Fuel corrosion is a huge problem if it happens, and can contribute to fuel pin failures, which means lots and lots of $$$ to clean up and fix. (It doesn't affect public safety, just the ratepayers costs for electricity)
Electrochemistry in metals under such high temperatures and with such enormous water flow rates are giant headaches waiting to happen. Our condensor is made from admiralty brass, and we've encountered some spalling corrosion with copper deposits on our last fuel cycle (mostly the 4th burned stuff, most people don't realize that only about 1/4th of the fuel is actually replaced during a refueling, the rest is shuffled to achieve optimal performance). No big deal, just something like a couple of hundred million $$$$ to replace the condensor, which is going on 20 years old.
The really ironic thing is that most all coal and gas fired steam electricty producing plants are allowed to run at higher temperatures and pressures than we do. Add the word nuclear to anything and you've trippled or quadrupled the price of a component because it now is way over-engineered to meet the ASME boiler codes for Nuclear, as well as seismic and safety classifications.
Last edited by Strider; Oct 16, 2002 at 08:11 PM.
So let's say I got my hands on some Ti and machined some apex seals...would you use them in your engine?
I get the feeling they would bend and let pressure leak past before they would shatter, and maybe that's a better scenario than with the steel ones?
I get the feeling they would bend and let pressure leak past before they would shatter, and maybe that's a better scenario than with the steel ones?
i think it would be fun to buy a cheap motor from a junkyard and try that out. i would totally do it if i had the funds and the time...just run it hard to see what i could stand up to. it is a costly undertaking though.
Joined: Oct 2001
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From: Fort Branch, Indiana
Originally posted by 82transam
Spending money you don't have is fun.
Spending money you don't have is fun.
That happens quite a bit around here doesnt it

Oh and directly at the exhaust manifold on a turbo rotary its hot enough to crack cast iron. I think Ill keep the regualr rotors
I've heard that for bikes, the best material is beryllium, it is 35% lighter than alluminium, and 60% lighter than titanium, and is stiff, elastic(returns to original shape, not soft), and has a melting point of 1500+ K (around 2300 F). Anouther plus, is that it tends to form only covalent bonds unlike magnesium, and titanium, which is why they are flammible'(highly exothermic). the bad part about beryllium is: 1) 86x the cost of titanium
2) highly controlled substance due to its ability to reflect neutrons, making the critical mass of plutonium half of what it would normally be. So it is a key to making small/cheap nuclear weopons.
I've heard that a pair of bikes were made using beryllium, they cost something like $30,000. So.... interesting but impossible to use.
2) highly controlled substance due to its ability to reflect neutrons, making the critical mass of plutonium half of what it would normally be. So it is a key to making small/cheap nuclear weopons.I've heard that a pair of bikes were made using beryllium, they cost something like $30,000. So.... interesting but impossible to use.
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Joined: Sep 2002
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From: Richland, WA
Originally posted by fatboy7
I've heard that for bikes, the best material is beryllium, it is 35% lighter than alluminium, and 60% lighter than titanium, and is stiff, elastic(returns to original shape, not soft), and has a melting point of 1500+ K (around 2300 F). Anouther plus, is that it tends to form only covalent bonds unlike magnesium, and titanium, which is why they are flammible'(highly exothermic). the bad part about beryllium is: 1) 86x the cost of titanium
2) highly controlled substance due to its ability to reflect neutrons, making the critical mass of plutonium half of what it would normally be. So it is a key to making small/cheap nuclear weopons.
I've heard that a pair of bikes were made using beryllium, they cost something like $30,000. So.... interesting but impossible to use.
I've heard that for bikes, the best material is beryllium, it is 35% lighter than alluminium, and 60% lighter than titanium, and is stiff, elastic(returns to original shape, not soft), and has a melting point of 1500+ K (around 2300 F). Anouther plus, is that it tends to form only covalent bonds unlike magnesium, and titanium, which is why they are flammible'(highly exothermic). the bad part about beryllium is: 1) 86x the cost of titanium
2) highly controlled substance due to its ability to reflect neutrons, making the critical mass of plutonium half of what it would normally be. So it is a key to making small/cheap nuclear weopons.I've heard that a pair of bikes were made using beryllium, they cost something like $30,000. So.... interesting but impossible to use.
Another example of this is the development of the Harrior Jump Jet. The Brits spent like two decades developing it. The original design requirement was to be able to launch an aircraft from a really short flight deck, (STOL). While they were still tinkering around with their designs for 20 years, within a single year we were strapping on rocket boosters to existing aircraft. Problem solved.
Beryllium huh? hmmmm....I think that I would prefer carbon fiber. One thing though. Extreme rigidity is not that desirable in a bike frame. Its better to have a frame that will flex just a little, and the more rigid, generally the shorter the fatigue life.
Since we're dreaming and all, I would like some depleted uranium for loading shotgun shells for goose and duck hunting. That Federally mandated steel shot just doesn't hit hard enough
Since we're dreaming and all, I would like some depleted uranium for loading shotgun shells for goose and duck hunting. That Federally mandated steel shot just doesn't hit hard enough





