1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Tips for starting a -SE after 5 years.

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Old 06-13-03, 10:29 AM
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Tips for starting a -SE after 5 years.

Im going to go look at another -SE today and just wanted to know Are there anything speical precedures i should follow before starting it after being stoped for ~5 years. The car was stored indoors if it makes a difference...
Old 06-13-03, 10:51 AM
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You let me start it (and buy it) j/k

Probably a good idea to take a small oil can and pull the trailing plugs and put some oil on each face of each rotor. I'd wouldn't let it run to long as that coolant and gas are probably no good.

If possible flush and fill all the fluids first. But if you wanna just see if it starts, at least put some oil in the housings! Cuz it won't get oil for the first couple of minutes (if everything works properly)
Old 06-13-03, 12:35 PM
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if that oil won't help... try ATF... make sure battery is good...
Old 06-13-03, 03:49 PM
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drain the old gas, new plugs, fresh battery... a little aft and a lot of good luck she will fire right up...
Old 06-13-03, 08:50 PM
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You know what to do jimmy. take a battery with you.
some gas in a can, some MMO, or oil. do you know WHY
it has been parked for so long. think about it !! I'd pull the plugs and turn it over first just to see if it will turn
with the starter before anything else,,,you know ?
Old 06-14-03, 12:52 AM
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The AUTO DOCTOR

 
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yea when i did my last sitting car i bought(was hit in the front HARD but didnt kill the rad.) i pulled the plugs, a little (just a little to lube the seals)atf in the holes, a good battery and a big *** charger/starter box.... i had to clean the starter cables they were nasty... spun it over a good 5 times for 10-15 sec each time.... sounded good and strong... tossed my mazda tester on it... oh yea GREAT #'s... i tossed in a set of good cleaned plugs in it yanked the fuel pump fuse(gas was NASTY so i drained it) had the filter box open and had somebody spraying "starting fluid" in the afm... she fired right up... look over the guages... yep oil shoots up... volts... ok... the friend (skilled rotorhead) keeps her running on the starting fluid.... hell it even idled great... RIGHT ON... i only ran it about 45 -75 sec... ok it runith.... YANK THE MOTOR...
after i removed the tank and pump (going in the l.e. for the t2 swap) i found out the tank was coated in old *** SLUG/TAR stuff that i would assume was at 1 time in its life a t rex and also gasoline... now its something like dead dino again

Last edited by BadAssRX-7; 06-14-03 at 12:57 AM.
Old 06-14-03, 07:48 AM
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The reason the car was stopped was it was hit in the back quaterpanel and he stopped driving it, he was going to get it repaired (not too much damage) but then decided it wasn't worth it, so he drove it once and a while up and down his street until he just stopped. He claims to have a compression test done a little before he put the car away, which he is going to show me. I can see he took good care of the car though...Interior is SPOTLESS, no rips in leather, not faded, nothing..ENgine bay is pretty clean aswell. It also has a car starter from the 80's or maybe early 90's....It has a HUGE remote, bigger than a tv remote with a giant antenna! LOL

Im going to pick it up sunday and Follow what you guys said... So i use acutal ATF? i've seen alot of people latley say to use a MMO style product?


Too my suprise though, the underside of the car isn't too rusty...of course im going to have to cut out wheel wells but thats not much of a deal...Been throught it all before....
Old 06-14-03, 02:53 PM
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Forget the ATF. Just use regular motor oil or 2-cycle oil. Much cleaner...and it won't clog your cats or foul your O2 sensor like ATF will.

All your are trying to do is build compression in the motor so it will turn.

Good luck...and make sure to rest your starter..
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