timing.
04-11-09, 12:46 AM
#26
Mike,
The engine should stop running when you disconnect the trailing ignitor not the leading as the trailing is tied in with the fuel pump circuit. Are you sure you are getting spark to the leading (lower plugs)?
The engine should stop running when you disconnect the trailing ignitor not the leading as the trailing is tied in with the fuel pump circuit. Are you sure you are getting spark to the leading (lower plugs)?
Today I disconnected the 2GCDFIS and went back to stock, just to see if there was any difference. The only difference I noticed was that with the stock leading coil, I was able to see the leading timing mark all the time----no disappearing acts.
But the car pretty much ran the same. It's running real rich, stumbling, rough idle, and stumbles terribly if I up the RPM's by hand. I checked fuel pressure, and it was good. Tomorrow, I want to check fuel volume, as well as check fuel pressure again, only this time with the pressure reg vac hose disconnected like the FSM says. The car ran much better when I had a huge vacuum leak last week.
I thought that the trailing might not be working, but when I disconnected the trailing ignitor, the car did stumble noticeably. When I disconnected the leading ignitor, it died-----as it should. I still believe there is something not right in the dizzy. I was able to get a .35 feeler gauge in the pickup coils, which is the maximum I believe, but I don't think that the pickups are causing the problem. Any other ideas?
Another thing I think I need to look at is the AFM. Even though it moves freely, it just seems like the engine is not getting the air it needs. I also checked for vac leaks again, and didn't find any. I would appreciate any further suggestions.
Mike
But the car pretty much ran the same. It's running real rich, stumbling, rough idle, and stumbles terribly if I up the RPM's by hand. I checked fuel pressure, and it was good. Tomorrow, I want to check fuel volume, as well as check fuel pressure again, only this time with the pressure reg vac hose disconnected like the FSM says. The car ran much better when I had a huge vacuum leak last week.
I thought that the trailing might not be working, but when I disconnected the trailing ignitor, the car did stumble noticeably. When I disconnected the leading ignitor, it died-----as it should. I still believe there is something not right in the dizzy. I was able to get a .35 feeler gauge in the pickup coils, which is the maximum I believe, but I don't think that the pickups are causing the problem. Any other ideas?
Another thing I think I need to look at is the AFM. Even though it moves freely, it just seems like the engine is not getting the air it needs. I also checked for vac leaks again, and didn't find any. I would appreciate any further suggestions.
Mike
04-11-09, 10:25 AM
#27
84 SE
Thread Starter
Yeah doc, I meant to say that, I just got the leading and trailing mixed up. When I disconnect the T it dies. I'm going to do some further checks and post what I find.
BTW----I really need to know what year/generation your escort e-fan is from. My friend manages a junk yard and is allowing me to pick out an e-fan of my choice for free.
MM
BTW----I really need to know what year/generation your escort e-fan is from. My friend manages a junk yard and is allowing me to pick out an e-fan of my choice for free.
MM
04-11-09, 06:26 PM
#30
84 SE
Thread Starter
Is it normal that the leading vac advance hose, when disconnected, has like twice as much suction as the trailing? I'm asking because the sources/routing of my vac hoses are not 100% stock since I did the S5 intake swap, and I just want to verify that this is normal.
04-11-09, 09:50 PM
#31
I don't know where you came to the conclusion that I have a Escort fan? I was running a Fiero V6 fan and since you stated you want to run the A/C that fan will not work with A/C, it is too big and will not allow the usage of the lower accessory pulley.
Yeah doc, I meant to say that, I just got the leading and trailing mixed up. When I disconnect the T it dies. I'm going to do some further checks and post what I find.
BTW----I really need to know what year/generation your escort e-fan is from. My friend manages a junk yard and is allowing me to pick out an e-fan of my choice for free.
MM
BTW----I really need to know what year/generation your escort e-fan is from. My friend manages a junk yard and is allowing me to pick out an e-fan of my choice for free.
MM
04-12-09, 07:51 AM
#32
Lives on the Forum
Without the rat's nest, I run on the 1st nipple forward at the base of the carb. Seems to work well.
For the Efan, I'm not sure if you'll get into mounting difficulties running the MR2 fans with A/C or not. But if they will fit, then it just comes down to the fan controller you use. It will cost a bit more, but get a controller that has the A/C function with it. That allows it to run when the A/C is on, whether the coolant is hot enough to turn it on or not....
For the Efan, I'm not sure if you'll get into mounting difficulties running the MR2 fans with A/C or not. But if they will fit, then it just comes down to the fan controller you use. It will cost a bit more, but get a controller that has the A/C function with it. That allows it to run when the A/C is on, whether the coolant is hot enough to turn it on or not....
04-12-09, 11:15 AM
#33
That's an all-or-nothing valve, fed from the carb; if you've got "half as much" vacuum there, you've likely got a small leak somewhere.
04-13-09, 02:30 AM
#34
This is a Se, FI, no carb and different system.
Without the rat's nest, I run on the 1st nipple forward at the base of the carb. Seems to work well.
For the Efan, I'm not sure if you'll get into mounting difficulties running the MR2 fans with A/C or not. But if they will fit, then it just comes down to the fan controller you use. It will cost a bit more, but get a controller that has the A/C function with it. That allows it to run when the A/C is on, whether the coolant is hot enough to turn it on or not....
For the Efan, I'm not sure if you'll get into mounting difficulties running the MR2 fans with A/C or not. But if they will fit, then it just comes down to the fan controller you use. It will cost a bit more, but get a controller that has the A/C function with it. That allows it to run when the A/C is on, whether the coolant is hot enough to turn it on or not....
04-13-09, 12:33 PM
#37
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04-13-09, 12:36 PM
#38
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using two seperate hoses to 2 nipples on the intake sounds incorrect. also the nipples do different things, so you have to find the right one. takes literally 2 minutes with a vacuum gauge
04-13-09, 09:44 PM
#39
84 SE
Thread Starter
Update:
One problem that I noticed is that when the engine is revved and then comes back down to normal idle 800-900, the timing is really advanced----I mean like 20 degrees advanced. So I disconnect the vac hoses to the L/T vac diaphragms, and the timing comes back to normal. Rev up the RPM's and then let it come back down to idle, sure enough the timing is way off again. Conclusion----something is hanging up inside the dizzy----at least that's what I'm thinking now.
One problem that I noticed is that when the engine is revved and then comes back down to normal idle 800-900, the timing is really advanced----I mean like 20 degrees advanced. So I disconnect the vac hoses to the L/T vac diaphragms, and the timing comes back to normal. Rev up the RPM's and then let it come back down to idle, sure enough the timing is way off again. Conclusion----something is hanging up inside the dizzy----at least that's what I'm thinking now.
04-13-09, 10:50 PM
#40
Or something is holding vacuum longer than should be. If it was a mechanical hangup, unplugging the hoses wouldn't make it go away.
Oh, and I looked over the stock emissions plumbing for a GSL-SE (only one I had diags for, an 83)... there's a vacuum control solenoid valve for EACH advance mechanism, leading and trailing.
Oh, and I looked over the stock emissions plumbing for a GSL-SE (only one I had diags for, an 83)... there's a vacuum control solenoid valve for EACH advance mechanism, leading and trailing.
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