I have a 1985 GSL rx-7 w/ just over 59k miles. It's in overall decent shape, but the choke doesn't go in after the 10 - 70 seconds like the owner's manual said it would. Also, my dad said he thought the timing should be adjusted. I think he was talking about the timing of the spark plugs. He said this because you have to keep a little gas going to the engine or it will die. Whenever I'm braking, it'll just stop, and i'll have to crank it again. Could it be something else besides the timing? Also, what would you guys check or replace after buying a used car? It belonged to an older woman who just let it sit in here backyard for the past 7 years. Thanks.

 

FUEL FILTER

put Marvel Mystery Oil in the gas- not only will it clean up your fuel system, it will help lube your apex seals. (it's designed for this)

check the plugs- if they are 4 prong NGK's, you're good (check to make sure they're in good condition)

take a good look at the cap and rotor - if they are worn, replace, same with the wires... if they look like they've been in there a long time, go ahead and replace them too.

as for the choke- does it go in at all by itself? It's cold, so it will take longer. mine goes in at a certain temp. so should yours.

 

I'm not sure about the choke, something could be wrong with the magnet. Stalling when coming to a stop could be a vaccum leak however, make sure that all your hoses are connected to where they're supposed to be and that there are no cracks, etc.

 

good point on the cracked hoses- a notorious hose to break is the one below the carb on the passenger side that goes to the firewall (brake booster) You'll recognize it because it is bent to hell. (stock)

 

I agree with everything metallic_rock says. But also check and re-check all vacuum hoses. Some of what you describe could be the result of vacuum leaks. They are likely to be a bit hard at this age and not sealing well. Of course, I'm assuming the emissions controls are stilll there.

Make sure you look at the hose from the intake manifold to the antiafterburn valve. It's at the rear of the manifold, down at the bottom, and runs up to the rear of the carb. It often splits right where it takes a 90* bend near the manifold.

You said it dies when you brake. Do you mean the idle changes a lot when you press on the brake pedal?

What is the idle speed? Again, if it only idles when set well over 1000 rpm, I'd look for vacuum leaks. You can find them by letting the engine idle and spraying carb cleaner around the carb, listening for changes to the idle quality. If the idle changes, you have a leak where you sprayed.

I can't recall what releases the choke magnet. Sorry.

Good luck!

EDIT: Damn! I'm a slow typist. I agree with metallic_rock AND matt.

 

where can you get some of that Marvel Mystery Oil?

 

autzone, napa, most autoparts stores

 

You can tell if it's going to die because it will start shaking a little and it seems like the engine isn't getting enough gas. It'll drop below 1000 rpm's and die. The usual idling speed is about 1500. After I come to a stop and put it in park the rpm's climb fairly high, usually around 2500 - 3100.

 

Wow! Idle should be anywhere from 750-850. Hood sticker will tell you exactly. If its idling that high and when you hit the brakes it kills it, I would say vac leak somewhere and a carb rebuild.

 

Carb rebuild

 

its an auto! thares a valve deal near the back of the carb that have a habit of breaking, cant remember the name of it or the exact possition. sorry i cant be more spesifick...

 

All right, it's pretty late now, but I'll try checking into it this weekend. A little off the subject, but is a tranny swap hard to do? I'm wanting to put in a manual.

 

Ok, more bad news. My dad thinks he broke the choke. It helps a little to pull the choke out when you start it, but when you put it in neutral or in park, the rpm's go way up, between 3500 - 4000. It's crazy, my idle is around 30 - 40 mph.

 

Do you have anything on the physical linkage doing this, choke or cruise cable? Have you used at least 2 cans of carb cleaner in out and some while its running? Careful with the 4000 rpm though, see if you can physically move the linkage to slow it down. Good luck, keep us updated. Why does your pops think he broke the choke?

 

Whenever you buy a new car:



Change ALL the fluids. That includes not only the motor oil but,

Transmission
Rear Diff
Brake Fluid
Clutch Fluid
P/S Fluid
Gear Box Fluid
Engine Coolant

Check belts & hoses as well as brake lines & wheel cylinders love to leak over time.

Goodluck

And for the non - rotry people don't forget that timing belt!!

 

Here's what you do, start the car and let it idle. Then get a bottle of propane and wave it around all the vacuum hoses, if the car's idle picks up and starts running smoothly and at a higher rpm then you have a vacuum leak. And check your timing, and tune your carb.