I have done some searching and didnt find awhole lot about a T2 swap into a FB.

Correct me if im wrong but here is a list of things i would need to do this:
1.S5 or S4 Turbo engine
2. A high pressure fuel pump
3.Engine wiring harness/ ECU right?
4.S4/S5 transmission

Here are questions on each point.

1. How well do these engines fit and since the intercooler is on top do i have to put a hood scoop on my car? Is it possible to relocate the stock IC somewhere else? Do TurboII motors last a long time in know 3rd gen motors need rebuilt every 100,000. Are T2's much more reliable?

2. I started a thread earlier about fuel pumps but what pump would best feed a T2?

3. Is wiring it all up very difficult? Do i just need to find a stock ECU and put it on there?

4. Do i need a new master cylinder etc to hook up to the TII transmission?


Can this swap be done on a 1200 - 1500 dollar budget?

EDIT: just found "The chronicles of the TII swap" hopefully it will help.

 

I think that you also need an SE oil pan. And if you are using an S5 engine, the electric omp will not work so you will need to convert to a manual or do something iirc. Correct me if I'm wrong people as I have not done this. This is just what I remember from reading threads on the subject.

I would reccomend switching to a fmic instead of using the tmic.
I would think that you want more than $1500 before beginning this project. I have heard of it costing much more than that. Especially because any engine that you get for cheap it will probably be a good idea to rebuild and a good rebuilt engine will cost more than 1200. Good luck, and I'm sure others can answer the other questions (and possible add to/correct my post).

 

Cant find any info!!!?
This has been beaten to death,especially lately.
Yes the TII is a reliable engine,100K is not uncommon.But thats on a new engine thats taken care of.I did my initial TII swap with a junkyard engine and I only got 6 months of life out of it.Yea,it only cost 1500 bucks to do the whole thing,but you get what you pay for.Afterwards,I paid $4500 for a FULLY built,nearly new Mazdatrix S5 engine and its been running strong for 30K miles with 0 problems at 14psi.Again,you get what you pay for.
S5 can be adapted to the FB mounts,but it takes custom work.The S5 ECU wont work without the electric OMP.Its been covered numerous times in the last couple weeks.
The TMIC is OK,not great.It will fit under the hood,but its recommended you cut a slat in the hood or build a scoop.The stocker will work fine but it will get heat soaked after repeated runs.
Stock clutch master will work the TII slave just fine.
Wiring is easy,you just need an FSM and a custom harness consisting of about 10-15 wires to power the ECU,coils,fuel pump and CAS.

 

like steve said... do it right the first time. you could make things easier by going stand alone... plus this can yeild alot more power no matter what the setup. get a walbroh 255 fuel pump atleast and a good RRFPR (aeromotive comes to mind).

 

A rising-rate fuel pressure regulator rises the rate of fuel pressure to boost pressure (ie. 2:1) instead of keeping it equal (ie. 1:1). If you are runnig a stand-alone ecu, there's no need to use a RRFPR, as they are generally only considered when the stock injector timing cannot be changed (ie. you can't afford a stand-alone) and so the fuel pressure is compensated instead of the injector timing.

 

I was thinking more along the lines that you need a constant 42psi spray. When you build boost, it lowers that pressure, and has a tendency to force the fuel the wrong way. That's why you used a RRFPR. And the 1:1 regulator moves the pressure up 1 psi per 1 psi of boost. That's all you really need, whether stand alone or not. You can max out the duty cycle on smaller injectors, so you gotta use larger injectors. It's not really the timing of the injectors, it the duty cycle that you need to be worried about.

 

****** christ, not going thru the RRFPR debate again. get a FPR that raises fuel pressure 1psi per 1psi of boost. even with stand alone this is neccessary because it can force the fuel back thru the lines. i've seen it first hand, watching cars lean out when the pressure doesnt go up, but the map is fine on the stand alone. switch regulators, problem solved. but yes there is no need for say.. a 2:1 rrfpr or anything.

 

Here is what you will need:

Front Cover
SE gas tank
Aftermarket fuel pump(walbro 255 $100)
Stock T2 ECU
Driveline
IC
Engine(of course)
T2 Tranny
Down pipe
A little welding experience

I am sure that I have missed something...

I agree this has been beaten to death!

Can it be done with 1500? No The engine alone will cost you 1000. The cheapest that I have ever seen for a good T2 swap build has been just under 3k. And that is with the guy doing most of the work.

Now go to the FAQ's!!!

 

Like I said,I did it for 1500 bucks.Its not impossible,thats the greatness of PickNPull.:-)
You can score a complete engine,trans,ECU wiring....EVERYTHING for 400 bucks.Less, if you go on a weekend deal day.(50% off!!)
This of course requires a lot of luck,but its not impossible!And like I said,you get what you pay for.My junkyard engine turned out to have a bad water seal,but it still smogged,raced and generally got me around for a few months before the leak manifested itself.
The majority of the $1500 cost went to new gaskets,seals,hoses,injector cleaning and the few custom fabrication points needed to get running.Exhaust system,driveshaft and gas tank fab.I left those 3 things up to a pro simply because it was the right thing to do.The rest of the work I did strictly myself,so there was no labor payout,which can spiral any custom project out of control.I actually spent another $1500 on upgrade stuff during the initial swap,but that wasnt NECCESARY to make it run and put out the stock 182-200HP.I just wanted to upgrade while I had the dough and the engine on a stand.End result was a $3000,4 month project that made about 250HP.If I had been REALLY lucky,I would have scored a healthy engine right off the bat and it may still have been running to this day.But that wasnt to be,such is the life of a custom engine swap.


And the RRFPR thing.......heh,heh...thats one the beauties of running th stock ECU.Everything is handled by the ECU.The TII engine runs bigger injectors than the N/A engines of the same displacement.The ECU cuts voltage to the fuel pump at cruise and idle to reduce fuel delivery pressure to about 30psi.When the throttle/boost comes up, it restores 12V to the pump,which automatically increases fuel pressure/delivery.By going bigger with the injector sizes and trimming pump output electrically,they made it unneccesary to raise the fuel pressure beyond 45psi when boosting.

 

I agree with Z beater except one thing. Your 13b would bolt right up to the old 12A transmission..I've done it myself. The t2 transmission is stronger and better so its highly recomended but not absolutelt necessary. I an running a turbo13B on a 12A tranny now and so far its held up fine. I did change over to amsoil gear lube and replaced the front main bearing and carrier and beefed up the clutch. My budget was shot so I had no choice. If you can wait and get the T2 tranny it would be the smart thing to do.

 

Yep I have heard that you can do it with a 12a tranny but I did not want to risk it. Those turbo trannys are built heavier for a reason.

Steve nice work 1500 is amazing!

 

I must have missed out on the original debate. I just don't want any of the new guys to get confused and start calling a regulator something it isn't.