abeomid

I can acquire the whole front left and right suspension and brake assembly (rotors, struts, srpings, calipers, hubs, spindles, etc.) for a really good price off of a TII. what else do i need to swap these into my GSL-SE. I know the TII suspension has a little bit more height that mine, but I will be changing the struts and springs on them. I just thought this would be the best setup since later on i can upgrade and/or change parts easily.

Any help would be appreciated.

moremazda

iTrader: (4)

Do a little research on the threads for the brake lines. You should try and get those also. And the bolt pattern is 2-3mm different for the strut top. So the holes will have to be ovaled towards the out side of the pattern.

peejay

You'll need the T2 lower control arms, because the way the balljoints are set up is totally different. And then you'd need the subframe, because the other end of the control arm is different too. Forutnately it's apparently not that hard to put the FC subframe in an SA/FB, but you're on your own as to making the rack work with the steering column, or fitting the FC column to the car. Or doing the engine mounts.

But... it has been done before a few times.

abeomid

ok, this is getting too much. maybe i should do what Max has on his site
http://max7.rx-7.org/modifications/BigBrakes/index.htm

it's pretty simple and way better brakes

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

Do you have brake problems?

The SE brakes with good pads (hawk), racing brake fluid, stainless/steel lines, and being properly balanced/bled will yield all the braking power you could want. Even with much more HP.

The added bonus is that no mods are done. If you just "have to", then get some slotted rotors.

peejay

FWIW I think I have a way of using FC struts without swapping subframes... it would involve a little work though... basically adapting the balljoints to the FB control arms, using the left strut/knuckle on the right and vice-versa to put the steering arm on the back instead of the front, then drilling the tie-rod hole's taper out and using rod-ends for the outers, which would allow correcting the bump steer.

Okay, more than "a little" work It's a neat idea, not sure if it'd even work (I worry about welding suspension parts... one can never trust a weld that he's done himself) but I won't worry about it until I start running out of brakes.

abeomid

well i don't want to do this like tommorow. I am doing the turbo upgrade and will be running around 400RWHP hopefully. so i will need bigger brakes especially for autox which i'm doing right now. But i want to have most of the parts here when i start the project

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

I don't Auto-X, but don't they have rules about turbos and such, putting you in different classes against the big boys?

Also, a Turbo hitting boost in the middle of a tight apex, is not a good feeling (as you lose control) in a race.

abeomid

yeah i would be in Mod class. But 400RWHP should be enough to take care of those "big boys". As for boost hitting in the apex, there are ways to take care of that.

nimrodTT

drift

yayarx7

What mod class would that put you in?

abeomid

C-mod, the highest class (CACC, Canadian, almost same as SCCA) A-mod and B-mod are for open-wheel cars

peejay

Really? C-Mod?

I seem to recall a 1st-gen with a SBC conversion, huge tires, and no roof/windshield running in E-Mod.