1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

tighting on main pulley

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Old Feb 7, 2007 | 11:59 AM
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gmanuser's Avatar
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wheres my calculus book?
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From: st. george UT
tighting on main pulley

i am not sure if i read the right part in my haynes book but the main pulley on the front end am i supposed to 72 ft lbs of torque i think it might have been a conversion error, my uncle said just get it tight enough so it wont come off, but i can tell that it is leaking oil out of thier and when i rebuilt my engine i didnt know that i needed to replace my seals on my rotor and on the e shaft any idead on what to do?
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Old Feb 7, 2007 | 12:48 PM
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From: St Joe MO
72-87 ft/lb, per the FSM. Be sure to use a good thread lock too. Is your engine leaking/burning oil? If it's leaking out around the e-shaft, you need a new washer and perhaps a front oil seal. If it's burning through the exhaust, then yes, you should have replaced the oil control o-rings.
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Old Feb 7, 2007 | 02:22 PM
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There is a copper seal washer under the head of the bolt. The copper washer must be in good shape, and it needs to stay in place when torquing the bolt. A bit of RTV Silicone between the washer and the bolt flange helps things out (helps keep it from slipping down, and may help fill slight imperfections in the sealing surfaces.)
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Old Feb 9, 2007 | 12:06 PM
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wheres my calculus book?
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From: st. george UT
its a new washer but it got oil on it the exaust is not burning an abnormal amount of oil so thats good it is leaking out of that front part but probally because i didnt tighten it i will get a new one wich ironicly i used a rocker crusher washer for a piston engine and cut out a little bit and put on and it fits perfect but i any ideas on how to keep it still while tightning i tride putting it in gear but it just makes the car move btw i feel blessed to have one the rotor gods post about my post yeay thanks trochoid.
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Old Feb 9, 2007 | 12:16 PM
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From: St Joe MO
Removing the e-shaft bolt has inherrent dangers. There is a specific proceedure for this so the torrington bearings don't drop. The clutch needs to be pushed and held, the entire time the bolt is loose/out. Read up. Use the e-brake and chock the wheels, that will help get the bolt broke loose.
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Old Feb 9, 2007 | 12:41 PM
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wheres my calculus book?
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From: st. george UT
thats what i was trying but it would just start to spin agianst the blocks and it is in gravel because thats the only place my pops will let me work on in case i spill oil wich i have many times or other types of fluids hehehe i didnt even think of having someone push in the clutch you are a flipping guiness and how do you know that they are called torrington bearings dang you a flipping guiness my man!!!
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Old Feb 9, 2007 | 02:48 PM
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From: St Joe MO
Because I read the FSM, etc, lol. Use a 2X4 to hold the pedal in, once the bolt is broke loose.
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Old Mar 1, 2007 | 03:15 PM
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From: Hotlanta
You can also use the same 2x4 to hold the brake pedal when loosening the bolt. Then switch it over to the clutch.
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Old Mar 1, 2007 | 03:24 PM
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From: Wauwatosa Wisconsin
You can also take the little tin cover off on the passengers side of the car below the rear of the exhaust manifold (two bolts). Insert something (a rectangular bar of steel or whatever) between the flywheel gear & the top or bottom of the opening (motor housing) & loosen or tighten the nut.
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