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I purchased a project car last year but haven't driven it much until I can address a few issues. Upon digging into it a little I discovered a loose linkage rod from the throttle shaft on the carb to the OMP. This rod should go into the hole on the end of the OMP arm but was hanging loose. Someone must have had the carb off before and never re attached it. Looks like its also missing a cotter pin and related hardware to keep it attached.
The OMP is driven off the engine but in addition, when the throttle shaft is rotated the linkage moves the arm on the OMP. Can someone tell me what the purpose of this is? Evidently, this has been disconnected for awhile. Any one know what hardware keeps it attached. The end of the rod just has 2 small holes.
There is a very small washer and then a super small cotter pin that goes through one of the holes. I don't remember which hole. It has something to do with the amount of oil.
Any damage that is done is done. No since worry about that.
Also important to note is that the OMP has a return spring on the actuating lever which uses it and gravity to return the linkage to the "less flow" position. As the throttle is opened further, it pulls UP on the linkage, which opens the ports to the oil feeder lines and allows more flow to lubricate the Apex Seals. You want to get this fixed pretty quickly. The cotter pin is TINY...
I know the previous owner only had the car for maybe a year and a half, driving it sporadically. He mentioned he had a guy rebuild the carb, but did not say exactly when it was done. I've driven it a couple times for maybe 25 miles or so and it seems to run fine, just a little temperamental (cold blooded) with an exhaust leak and (I think) leaky rear main seal. Anyways, I reconnected the linkage arm and will keep it in mind.
I had the same issue. Fixed it with a bent piece of wire through the small hole in the rod and a washer just as J_TSO pic shows. I remember finding something here on RX7Club that there should be a very tiny gap between the washer and the lever arm when the rod is in its furthest down position eg the rod should move a mm or so before it starts moving the arm.
Do make sure the lever on the OMP is actually moving. Mine was corroded so badly I could not move it at all, it was well and truly stuck in a half open position. Took the OMP apart, cleaned and lubed and now it moves easily. Was a very satisfying and easy thing to do. One thing I learned here is that the spiral shaped spring that helps return the lever to its closed position can be too weak for the job, in which case you have to wrap it around its post once before attaching it to the arm so in effect it is preloaded. Let me know if that fails to make sense.
Last edited by Slow_sevens; Apr 17, 2022 at 05:45 PM.
Reason: spelling