Thoughts on this fb?
06-06-15, 10:49 PM
#1
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Thoughts on this fb?
Hey guys some of you may know that I am looking for an rx7. I want either an fb or fc and happen to come across one that is about 2 hours from me and looks to be in nice condition.
I just wanted to get you rotary gurus to look at it and give me an idea of what I should do.
https://knoxville.craigslist.org/pts/5058416766.html
Thanks
also did the later model fbs come with the 13b instead of the 12. I was looking in the stickie thread but alot of the links are dead.
I just wanted to get you rotary gurus to look at it and give me an idea of what I should do.
https://knoxville.craigslist.org/pts/5058416766.html
Thanks
also did the later model fbs come with the 13b instead of the 12. I was looking in the stickie thread but alot of the links are dead.
06-06-15, 11:38 PM
#3
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Thanks for the reply. I have emailed the guy but haven't heard back so I guess I will give him a call tomorrow.
Hopefully there is nothing wrong with the car at all. Other than the ac not working and the leak.
Hopefully there is nothing wrong with the car at all. Other than the ac not working and the leak.
06-07-15, 02:44 AM
#4
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A really good price for a clean SE. I paid that for one in much worse shape... Mine had 147k when bought it.
The oil cooler leak usually means a new oil cooler if it's the original, so factor that into the price to fix it up. Also if the steering is vague with lot's of play, might need a new steering box (mine did) and thats a nice chunk of change! Listen for any "clunks" when getting on or off the gas. Usually means a bad drive shaft and/or transmission mounts. Mine needed both. Check the clutch master cylinder and if it's original and looks corroded, that will need replacement, but that's fairly cheap. And as always, check condition of hoses and belts. Mine still had the original hoses after 30 years! replacing all 7 or so of those can be a pain in the butt! My A/C didn't work either and ended up needing a new compressor and conversion to the newer freon.
The oil cooler leak usually means a new oil cooler if it's the original, so factor that into the price to fix it up. Also if the steering is vague with lot's of play, might need a new steering box (mine did) and thats a nice chunk of change! Listen for any "clunks" when getting on or off the gas. Usually means a bad drive shaft and/or transmission mounts. Mine needed both. Check the clutch master cylinder and if it's original and looks corroded, that will need replacement, but that's fairly cheap. And as always, check condition of hoses and belts. Mine still had the original hoses after 30 years! replacing all 7 or so of those can be a pain in the butt! My A/C didn't work either and ended up needing a new compressor and conversion to the newer freon.
Last edited by Cameron38; 06-07-15 at 02:47 AM.
06-07-15, 08:05 AM
#5
Looks solid and complete. Pre-purchase procedure...
1.Drive it, listen for noises in the front or rear (popping or squeaking in steering and suspension).
2.Feel for wonder steer. Plan on putting over $1000 into ball joints, tie rods, idler arm, pitman arm, shocks, struts, and springs.
3.Inspect for oil leaks.
4.Inspect for coolant leaks and condition of hoses.
5.After running the car good and hot, turn it off and inspect the coolant overflow for anomalies.
6.Pull the spark plugs for a visual, bump the engine over with one plug out each rotor and listen to the compression or use a compression gauge if you have one.
7.Restart the engine several times to ensure no hot start issues.
1.Drive it, listen for noises in the front or rear (popping or squeaking in steering and suspension).
2.Feel for wonder steer. Plan on putting over $1000 into ball joints, tie rods, idler arm, pitman arm, shocks, struts, and springs.
3.Inspect for oil leaks.
4.Inspect for coolant leaks and condition of hoses.
5.After running the car good and hot, turn it off and inspect the coolant overflow for anomalies.
6.Pull the spark plugs for a visual, bump the engine over with one plug out each rotor and listen to the compression or use a compression gauge if you have one.
7.Restart the engine several times to ensure no hot start issues.
06-07-15, 09:03 AM
#6
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My only concern is I won't be able to go and look at it until the weekend after next and by then it might be gone...
also do you guys think I should trailer it home or drive it home?
also do you guys think I should trailer it home or drive it home?
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06-07-15, 11:07 AM
#8
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that is kinda what I had in mind. I called him waiting on a reply right now. I figured he is in church or something since I haven't heard back from him yet.
06-07-15, 11:09 AM
#9
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his pics aren't really good enough to tell much. it looks decent, interior looks clean. i've written this longer before, but...
1. look for accident damage, the FB is easy for this. the under coat goes to the rocker panel, and goes most of the way around the car, so its easy to tell if its missing, and or the wrong texture. Mazda put a little tape protector thing on the bumper slides, and you can see them, the tape is clear and should be over the paint. if the tape is missing, or painted over, its been in a body shop. third, the body is assembled, seam sealed and then painted, so there should be an unbroken seam sealer on the fenders and headlight assemblies. the rubber parts were put on after paint, so they should not have overspray on them. it is good to look for this stuff, obviously a fender bender isn't a big deal, but some of these were in huge wrecks and fixed, so you want to know what you're buying.
2. leaks, look underneath for leaks. the GSL-SE oil cooler is notorious for leaking, the fitting cracks. the fix is pretty easy, as it can be welded up.
3. it should start right up, and be smooth and quiet and drive like a normal car. its an old sports car, but these were quiet and smooth from the factory, if it isn't something is wrong.
3a. a puff of smoke on startup is acceptable, but that is it.
3b. the starting procedure is to get in and turn the key, anything more, means there is something wrong.
4. rust, its a good idea to pull the bins out and look for rust, it takes 20minutes and phillips screw driver.
5. all the electrical stuff should work, although the switches get dirty, sometimes they need to be cycled a few times.
5a. the windows should just go up and down. you should plan on pulling the regulators, cleaning and regreasing them.
1. look for accident damage, the FB is easy for this. the under coat goes to the rocker panel, and goes most of the way around the car, so its easy to tell if its missing, and or the wrong texture. Mazda put a little tape protector thing on the bumper slides, and you can see them, the tape is clear and should be over the paint. if the tape is missing, or painted over, its been in a body shop. third, the body is assembled, seam sealed and then painted, so there should be an unbroken seam sealer on the fenders and headlight assemblies. the rubber parts were put on after paint, so they should not have overspray on them. it is good to look for this stuff, obviously a fender bender isn't a big deal, but some of these were in huge wrecks and fixed, so you want to know what you're buying.
2. leaks, look underneath for leaks. the GSL-SE oil cooler is notorious for leaking, the fitting cracks. the fix is pretty easy, as it can be welded up.
3. it should start right up, and be smooth and quiet and drive like a normal car. its an old sports car, but these were quiet and smooth from the factory, if it isn't something is wrong.
3a. a puff of smoke on startup is acceptable, but that is it.
3b. the starting procedure is to get in and turn the key, anything more, means there is something wrong.
4. rust, its a good idea to pull the bins out and look for rust, it takes 20minutes and phillips screw driver.
5. all the electrical stuff should work, although the switches get dirty, sometimes they need to be cycled a few times.
5a. the windows should just go up and down. you should plan on pulling the regulators, cleaning and regreasing them.
06-07-15, 11:30 AM
#10
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06-07-15, 02:15 PM
#11
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Just heard back from the guy. Really nice and he is the 2nd owner and bought it back in '95. When he bought it, it had a little under 100k on the clock. The reason he is selling it is his wife said its time for it to go.
He also told me that the rear windshield wiper doesn't work which doesn't bother me and that there is a small tear on the driver seat where the cloth meets the vinyl.
He seemed like a genuine guy and not from around here. Maybe Australia.
Anyways I am the first person to contact him about it so I have first choice. Hopefully no one will come along before I can go and see it the weekend after next.
He also told me that the rear windshield wiper doesn't work which doesn't bother me and that there is a small tear on the driver seat where the cloth meets the vinyl.
He seemed like a genuine guy and not from around here. Maybe Australia.
Anyways I am the first person to contact him about it so I have first choice. Hopefully no one will come along before I can go and see it the weekend after next.
06-07-15, 06:31 PM
#14
Engine bay passenger side, just below the hood line, stamped into the body above the model info plate.. also a riveted plaque in the top of the driver side dash, visible thru the "lower right' corner of the windshield as you face the car.
06-10-15, 08:39 PM
#17
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Thread Starter
Well I am going to look at this rx7 this coming sunday. Hopefully I will be joining the ranks of yall soon. I am unsure I can get the guy down any on the price plus its a good deal as far as i can see right now but that may change when he goes to start it and it idles bad and barely runs then ill offer like 1500 but other than that i will offer maybe a little lower than he is asking if not give him what he is asking.
06-15-15, 06:41 PM
#18
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So over the weekend I went and looked at this car. It ran great when I met the guy and drove it around. Went to drive back home and got half way to the interstate and the car just died. wouldn't start back for about ten minutes. then once started it ran fine. the car would surge in first gear but i was throwing that out the window with it being an old fuel injected car. but if you punch it, it would never rev over 4500 rpm. and after you drove it a few miles it would eventually die again. I think the clutch fan was never kicking off because if you revved it in neutral you could hear the fan spin up with the motor and eventually the belts would start to squeal. I only had it rev over 4500 once and that was when it was in neutral so i thought it had something to do with it not getting enough fuel because it would bog randomly and if you punched it, it acted like it was starving by hickuping then kinda going but not real well.
The owner took it back and is taking it to his mechanic to see what is wrong with it. Hopefully he can fix it and I can have it.
Where is the normal operating temp on the gauge. this was an inducator to me that the fan was never quitting because on his car it was reading a quarter of the way above cold.
Any thoughts would be great thanks
The owner took it back and is taking it to his mechanic to see what is wrong with it. Hopefully he can fix it and I can have it.
Where is the normal operating temp on the gauge. this was an inducator to me that the fan was never quitting because on his car it was reading a quarter of the way above cold.
Any thoughts would be great thanks
06-15-15, 07:37 PM
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normal operating temp is just below half, give or take about a needle width. fan comes on just after halfway, so if it was only a 1/3rd of the way up, it should have stayed off.
06-16-15, 10:00 AM
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06-17-15, 06:35 AM
#23
If only you knew about the jumper connecter near the ECU. You can build a check engine light and read codes telling you whats wrong. Being an old JetTronic EFI theres only 5-6 codes so its easy to diagnose. If no codes then its either fuel or spark.
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