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Thermostat/electric fan question.... again

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Old 06-10-04, 08:51 PM
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Question Thermostat/electric fan question.... again

Ok..My taurus fan is installed. I picked up a termostat wiring kit for electric fans today and installed it..... there is an inline fuse between the fan and the relay, which carries all the power to drive the fan, and the fuse kept blowing......

First one to pop was a 25 amp fuse, next a 30 amp fuse. Soooo I figured rather than have the high speed setting, I would try running the low speed on the fan, so it would draw less juice. And viola, it worked.... but is that going to be enuff to keep things cool?


The taurus manual, that I happen to have handy, says....that the low speed setting will kick in on the taurus at 215 F, and the high speed kicks in at 230 F. I know that these numbers are too high for a rotary, but if it will cool something at 215 F, will it be ok to cool the rotary? The fixed thermostat that I installed, between the rad fins, kicks in at 185 F...... Can anyone enlighten me with some advice? Will I be Ok with the low speed set up? And why on the high speed, does the fuses pop? Everthing is wired correctly, and grounded good.

Sorry for the novel

Cheers
Old 06-11-04, 01:25 AM
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any1?
Old 06-11-04, 01:43 AM
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Perhaps there's a short in the motor that's causing the fuse to pop on high speed.

Try this:

Find an old headlight (Or buy one and keep it as spare when you're done.)

Use the high beam connections... Connect one end to the battery. Connect the other end of the headlight to the fan High speed connection... Connect the other high speed wire to the other side of the battery. No fuse necessary... See if the fan runs or the headlight lights...

There are three possibilities.

1.) Nothing works... (Give the fan a slight push start.) If it still doesn't work, that means either the headlight is burned out or the fan motor is dead... I don't think this is likely.

2.) The fan does not turn. The headlight is on at full brightness. This means the fan motor IS shorted out... Full power is getting to the light causing it to be bright.

3.) The fan turns slowly (Might need a push start.) and the light is very dim... This means the fan motor is good, just keep increasing the fuse size till you find one that works.

This is safe to do without a fuse because you are limiting the power you are using by lighting up the headlight...

A short circuit is dangerous because all the power flowing through a wire has to do something, so it creates heat...

Since you're limiting the power flow with a headlight, you're not gonna take enough juice to heat up a wire.

Do not concern yourself with the temp ratings in the Taurus manual. Those rating are for the thermostatic switches that're built into the Taurus. Unless you took those with the fan, they're irrelevant.

Use your temp gauge in the RX-7 or buy one of those little infra-red thermometers where you point it at whatever you wanna measure and pull the trigger. Measure the temp of the upper radiator hose or where it connects to the radiator end tank or thermostat housing.

Last edited by Pele; 06-11-04 at 01:46 AM.
Old 06-11-04, 03:16 AM
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No they suck about 35 amps. He has no short.

I used to have a taurus fan. They arent that good really. I got the $80 adjustable fan from summitracing.com (thheir brand name), which draws 2700cfm. I installed it w/ a thermostat. And i love it, the setup works great. Well worth the money spent, and my car nearly never over heats.
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