rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

posted in the 2nd gen section last night, 11 views so far but no replys so ill post here as well. i'm looking into replacing the thermal pellet in the e-shaft and i'm wondering which one u guys r using. the one racingbeat offers is different than that of atkins and mazdatrix. besides the obvious, what's the difference and will either work? why can't i just remove the small spring and washer that's obviously missing from the replacements?

Racing Beat: $8.75


Atkins: $10.50
Mazdatrix: $8.94

Midwest 7's

iTrader: (4)

you need a 85 or older 13b e-shaft.
no thermal pellet at all.

darkfrost

iTrader: (1)

http://fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/OTB/otb.html

robs_seven

iTrader: (1)

That procedure posted says to brace off with a breaker bar and then turn the engine over for a split second. I understand this being i have tried to break my pulley lose by hand, and it is not going to happen you just cant get the back pressure of friction on the belts i have tryed everything. so a while back i posted a thread about removing the front pulley, and numerous people warned me about doing so. they said that with pressure on the e-shaft from the clutch/pressure plate it could cause somthing to happen to the bearings???? not sure if this is true or if it is just a myth?? therefore i have not yet changed my front pulley. can anyone for sure confirm this or not.

thanks robert

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

1st, the e-shaft bolt holds the pully boss on, the pulley then bolts to the boss. No need to remove the e-shaft bolt or pulley boss if you are changing the pulley. 2nd, yes, removing the e-shaft bplt can allow the torrington bearings to drop out of place and be crushed when the bolt is reinstalled. Front cover needs to be removed to set the bearings back in place.

rxtasy3, sorry, I'm no help for your question other than use one of the replacements or ReTeds mod.

peejay

We're not using thermal pellets. 1st-gen and earlier engines didn't have that crap.

robs_seven

iTrader: (1)

well i dont have the orignal pulley on the eshaft. When the motor was rebuilt it had a RB undersize pulley put on and it just wont charge enough. With the smaller pulley on the alt also, both pulleys cause it lose 35 % alt rpm. If im not mistaken the RB pulley is a one piece billet aluminum. I might be wrong.

Trochoid, is it true that if the clutch pedal is pressed in and held in place while you remove the and replace the pulley you have no worries??? the haynes manual says to remove the eshaft bolt only when the motor is off the tranny and the clutch/ pressure plate is removed. I thought maybe this would go alonf the lines of keeping pressure of the eshaft. I just replaced my motor and tranny and all and just dont want to think about pulling the cover, its a new rebuild and would rather not mess with it. but then again i want to do it right, less headache later.

sorry to get off topic

thanks for the info robert

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Correct, pushing in the clutch, and keeping it there, should keep enough pressure on the bearings so that they don't slip. Pressure must be maintained the entire time the bolt is out and hope that your clutch hydrauilics don't leak.

13BT_RX3

bolt is out or pulley is off?

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

ok, for midwest7's and peejay, i know pre-86 don't use these pellets. but i posted here cause i haven't gotten any replys from the 2nd gen guys and i know some here have these engines in their 1st gens. i put an '86 eshaft in my '74 13b when i did the build.

darkfrost, the link u posted, is that supposed to be some way of "modding" the pellet to dissable how it was meant to work without buying these other versions?

trochoid, what's this ReTed mod?

82transam

iTrader: (18)

Can't help you with the pellet, but mazdatrix has a faq about removing the pully and the problems with the torrington bearings: http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/pulley.htm

RX3SP

iTrader: (62)

[QUOTE=robs_seven]well i dont have the orignal pulley on the eshaft. When the motor was rebuilt it had a RB undersize pulley put on and it just wont charge enough. With the smaller pulley on the alt also, both pulleys cause it lose 35 % alt rpm. If im not mistaken the RB pulley is a one piece billet aluminum. I might be wrong.


Yes, the RB main pulley is one piece aluminum so you will have to remove the main pulley bolt to replace it. Trochoid is correct. If you can keep continuous pedal pressure on the clutch while you have the bolt loose and/or removed, the bearings will stay in place.

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

i'm not stupid, i know all about this. why has this gone all astray from the original question? never mind. i'll just cut the spring and washer off and take my chances. sorry about the rant, just got done speaking my mind in my other post in the 2nd gen section.

on second thought, maybe the second part of ur post wasn't meant for me.

82transam

iTrader: (18)

Relax, I wasn't attempting to insult yours or anyones intelligence by posting that link. Sorry your thread went off topic, just seemed like there was some debate over removing pully's etc, though that link would be of some help to someone. next time I'll just shut the **** up.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

http://fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/OTB/otb.html Most of the 1st gen guys don't know, but http://fc3spro.com is ReTed's site. The 1st link is his take on the pellet.

82transam

iTrader: (18)

After looking at his site, I'm not sure why you wouldn't just remove it completely, or am I missing something...

RX3SP

iTrader: (62)

Don't cut the spring and washer off. That's the last thing you want to do. Take a look at this link. It's a pretty easy fix. I posted it on the 2nd gen forum but maybe you didn't see it there.
http://pineappleracing.com/Eccentricbypass1a.pdf

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

yeah i saw it, thanx. i started getting replys in the 2nd gen section after my second post there. i appreciate all the replys i've gotten. i'm concerned tho just how do u know that this mod actually works, i mean, there's no real way to tell. i guess it's just knowing how the thing works. going by that link on the pineapple site about the oil pressure being insufficient to open the squriters, mine should be enough to open them(85-90@3000) even without the mod.

RX3SP

iTrader: (62)

Even with 85-90psi oil pressure when there is a totally open hole at the end of the eccentric where the oil is bypassing, it is unlikely there will be enough oil pressure in the e-shaft to open the squirter check ***** so that the rotors get oil.

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

ok, then why not just remove the check ***** in the squirters during rebuild could be another option? i always thought that spring and washer worked kinda like the thermostat does. that's why i mentioned removing them.

from reted's site:"You'll need to shim the oil thermo pellet to at a minimum of 6.0mm." anyone know what the maximum is? wouldn't want to put too many in there.