Well I am getting parts together for my rebuild. My friend just done a rebuild and didnt have everything together. So I am tring to make sure i have everything I am gonna need before I start. Like Misc. nuts and bolts. My friend was lucky what ever he didn t have he took off the spair motor he had. I already took apart all my motors so I need to make sure I have all those bolts.

Here is a link to my parts adding more pics every day. Let me know if you see something I am missing.

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/ncw812.../ph//my_photos

 

are you replacing the bearings?

 

Do you have all the tools necessary?

That held me up during my rebuild- stuff like flywheel nut wrench, hylomar, flywheel stopper, etc.

 

Yah, you might also want to have (or borrow) a magnetic base dial indicator for the final stage of the rebuild.

As well, maybe a die grinder and some carbide tips for those housings????

 

0-1" and 3-4" micrometers, dial indicator with magnetic base, as mentioned, to check endplay and an engine stand for assembly. No need for the stand adapter. Red and Blue Permatex thread lock, anti-sieze compound, assembly lube or Slick 50 and MMO. Metric tap and die set for cleaning and chaseing threads. 3/8" and 1/2" torque wrenches, I can usually get by with only the 1/2" one.

When installing the coolant o-rings, use Hylomar. Many builders say Vasoline is ok, but it will cause the outer rubber o-rings to swell and grow, then they won't stay in place if not assembled and torqued in one session. Vasoline works great for holding the rest of the springs and seals in place. Large rubber bands to hold the apex seals in the rotors during assembly.

Lay every part out on a clean surface. A Formica counter top works well, don't use the one in the kitchen, a large sheet of butchers paper taped down on a smooth workbench can be substituted. I had galvanized sheetmetal bent up to fit my worktops when I built the shop. Cleanliness is of prime importance, think of it as doing surgery on your engine, mask is not needed.

One of those small magnets that extend, the shirt pocket type and a proffesional dental pick, metal, come in handy too.

 

Yes I am plaining on replaing all the bearings.

 

Yea I have most of that. Ordering some Hylomar when i order some more parts I need. The apex seals a used but I will be using new.

 

Keep in mind that new bearings take longer to break in than apex seals and extend the breakin period.

 

I got my new engine stand in today. TQ wrenches I got Sockets. A dial indicator I will be borrowing so it might hold me up a day or 2 waiting for my friend to bring it buy. When I mad this I was thinking about bolts? I got teh front and rear gear bolts oil pump bolts. I am still waiting on the gasket kit bearings and apex seals and springs. Havent taken a pic of the front cover i will be using or the oil pump i will be using yet.

 

Yea but I think the bearings need replacing I might just do the main bearings. Depends on which rotors I go with.

 

Might as well do all 4 bearings while you're at it. Just make sure the e-shaft is in perfect condition for the new bearings.

 

upgrade the oilpump to a gsl se one its 17.5mm i think

 

I was thinking about it but i dont think i have 1 in the shop. I am gonna be using a 3rd gen OPR.

 

atkins gotem..
are u getting a new chain?
messure the chain slack if its 1/2" it needs replacing the spec is 3/8"

 

You can easily mod the 1st gen opr too. Go with the bigger oil pump, PM Dan Atkins, he may have a good used one.

 

Yea any parts you need nick just let me know and I will do my best on the prices...

Dan

 

Man something i al most for got was the oil pick up.

 

Ok got my order from mazdaspeed today no bearings? Dono why but I do know my gasket kit was going to be coming in later. Also I have changed my mind on rotors I am going to be running 82 rotors. I got those cleaned and working on spec ing some of the hard seal this weekend. To save money should i reuse a set of Apex seals pulled from a wrecked 85 motor that only had 64 or 68k miles? I am gonna be updating some of the pics with new ones of some of the parts i have cleaned this weekend.

 

Why do you want to run the heavier rotors and do you have the matching front weight and flywheel for the 82? You can reuse apex seals, if they are in spec, but imho, if they show more than 50% wear, buy new ones if you want a long lasting engine.

 

Well one of the 85 has where on 1 of the side seal spots and dont fell safe using it. It is where a side seal broke. Yes i have a matching front counter weight and an 80 auto rear counter weight or the stock 82 5 speed flywheel. The apex seals are in spec. I wish I could find the bearing so i can get them in asap.

 

Try again on the sideseal expaination, I'm not following you. How much in spec are the seals? They aren't that much from Atkins, and if you are getting parts from Mazdacomp, they could be even cheaper.

 

OK where a side seal broke in the rotor is put a nick in the rotor I didnt like the feel of teh side seal in that spot so instead of taking a chance I pulled out a good set of 82 rotors cleaned them and I am working on spec ing the side seal corned seals and so on. I ll have to find the bag the the apex seal but i wanna say we determand they only had 20 or 25 % wear. I am gonna replace all the bearings for sure. Gonna go pull an eshaft out tomorrow and try to find the best 1. Gonna get started cleaning the front cover and plates tomorrow.

 

Post a pic of the rotor damage, it may not present a problem. If the apex seals are that close to new for specs, yeah, I would reuse them.

 

Ok i ll get a pic of the side seal area tomorrow. I need to clean a few more side seals i had some that i had cleaned that was not in spec. I broke a couple of corner seals to tring to spec the seals but everything is ok now. I might go ahead and get soild corner seals. I couldnt find the apex seal I ll have to see it they are out in the shop. I am gonna call mazdaspeed monday and find out about my bearings. And hope they can tell me when i ll get my gasket kit in.

 

Ok i tried to take a pic but the problem wouldn't show up. All i can say when running asideseal through the side seal groves is when you can really tell it.