capt murph

[IMG]I removed the tension rods to replace the old rubber bushings and discovered that the retainer/spacer- it looks like a 2" dia. dished washer - is disintegrated.

Since these were part of the original soft rubber bushings, do I really need these retainers with the harder plastic poly type of bushings? I don't think I do.
Anyone have an opinion they care to add?

[IMG]

capt murph

I forgot to add that the local dealer does not show this retainer as an available part.

(The bracket hole for the spacer is enlarged too - about 1/8 clearance around the new spacer, but I think I'll have my welder fix that problem)

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Yes you need the washer/retainers. The poly bushing needs to 'captured' on both sides for it to perform properly. Without the retainers, the nuts on the tension rod will eat away at the bushing, not to mention it's absence will probaly add some slop in the lower arm with more fore/aft movement.

If you are talking about the interior retainer on the rearward side, while it may not be as critical as the outboard ones, I would still find a replacement for it.

capt murph

It is the INNER retainer that disintegrated. The outer ones are ok but those are just flat washers, and I agrre they are a must have.
Yep, the inner one doesn't seem critical for a hard plastic bushing. However, I would like to have them. I'm searching for those, so if anybody has 2 good ones, would you let me know.

riceburner1r2001

iTrader: (4)

u need both i just did mine a few months ago and make sure u mark where u took them off and dont crush them when putting them back on. helped me and my alignment

capt murph

What would you mark? The new bushings seem so thick it looks like I will have to back off the rear nut to get it together.

capt murph

I just learned that the inner spacer is spot welded to the bracket.

I found 2 brackets!!!

riceburner1r2001

iTrader: (4)

u mark where they r at before u take them off

capt murph

I don't understand the need to mark anything. The parts removed - the old tendsion rod bushings, were in such bad condition, nothing was where it should be. I could see no need to mark anything. I understand the final assembly shown in the tech manual shows a 10.75 mm dimension which can be achieved at re-assembly rather easily. Am I missing something?

P.S. Removed the end links and tension rod brackets last night. Awaiting new brackets.

riceburner1r2001

iTrader: (4)

where the bolts were on both sides u should have marked where they were so u have an idea where the alighnment might be then u just have to go to a alighnment shope then they can adjust your alighnemtn better. man i use alignment too much.. haha

capt murph

I guess you mean the 2 big nuts, right? OR if you mean the 2 bolts at the end of the tension rod...oh then I'm screwed. I just yanked them babies out and was unaware the 'small end' of the tension rod was an adjusting point... I see...oh well to the alignment shop anyway...the rust/dirt pattern will get me in the ball park. Thanks for the input.

riceburner1r2001

iTrader: (4)

yeah it tells u n the haynes book to mark it, well u didnt no u live n learn i got lucky and my alighnment has been good ever since

REVHED

The way the Haynes manual tells you to mark it is wrong anyway.

jgrewe

iTrader: (1)

You are dealing with your caster adjustment when you move these. The more caster, the more camber gain you'll get when you turn (outside wheel). DO NOT crank these bushings down tight, you will make the trailing link part of the spring system. I'd just use the front half of anything stiffer than rubber because almost all of the load is to the rear on these bushings.

Unless these are the cool spherical type made of delrin...

riceburner1r2001

iTrader: (4)

yeah but u atleast mark it

jgrewe

iTrader: (1)

I always went as far as the threads would allow and then make sure the two sides match.

kenn_chan

Murph how is the "former Sabi Monster" doing? the allighnment will be off slightly if you don't mark is as ricebirner suggested, however if your bushings were totally shot then marking it will make no difference, jsut take it to a allighnment shop and tell them what you replaced so that they know to check your caster also.

v/r
kenn

Rx7carl

That measurement happens to coincide with the cotter key hole. After its all installed loosely, put in the cotter key, then back the front nut up to it, then tighten the rear nut to the spec. Thats how I do it anyway.

capt murph

the 'former' Sabi Monster is doing very well kenn. Hope to get a photo posted soon.

The alignment previous to disassembly HAD to be VERY questionable because of the bushing deterioration. Even the sleeve on the rod was completely shot. AND the cup shaped spacer which is spot welded to the bracket was 60% dust. That can't be good...


Another rusty item is the driver side end link which I CANNOT !&^#@! GET OFF THE CAR. The 6"+ bolt/link is frozen to the sleeve/spacer and will not separate. Tried heat, no help. Time to start cutting something...

ON alignment, I verified that the rear position of the tension rod is fixed, so the any alignment adjustment would be from the big nuts on the bushing end. And as Rx7carl pointed out, setting the front nut to that dimension and then torqueing the rear to spec should get me in a better position than when I started. I'll keep you'll posted.

capt murph

Still waitng for new brackets which are in transit; due here 1/16. Cleaned up parts and painted; tension rods, sway bar, inner fender wells, front suspension.

Saw CALIPER PAINT on the store shelf. Hmm. They could use some TLC, so I bought it and painted the calipers. Did not disassemble... paint went on good (brush) and covers nice. That was a blessing to get that paint, because I discovered the upper BOLT holding the caliper in place was BROKEN. The end was a little rusted, indicating it was broken for some time. Brakes worked OK, but I suppose that if I hit the brakes hard in reverse, things may have come loose.

kenn_chan

Well that would have scared the snot out of you wouldn't it goes to show we need to check our toys on a regular basis. lol

kenn