Tach Buzzer wont stop Buzzing HELP!!!
05-14-07, 09:38 AM
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Tach Buzzer wont stop Buzzing HELP!!!
my Tach just started not working for me wich doesnt really bug me but the damn Redling buzzer will not STFU and i have to drive 200 miles for work evry weekend PLEEEEAAAAAASSSSSEEEEEE stop this god awfule noise anyone know wich fuze i can pull?? or how i might be able to fix this problem?? evryonce and a while it will start working again but then the next morning the same horrible noise...
05-14-07, 09:48 AM
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anyone know where i can get a diagram of the fuze box wich shows wich ones go where?? i could just start pulling random ones untill it stops but will that hurt anything???
05-14-07, 11:33 AM
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nope deff the tack it wont read above 1,500 RPM's and it bounces along with the buzzz then sometimes it just goes away and the tach starts working again
05-14-07, 11:35 AM
#6
yeah try unplugging the oscillator, it's a little black plastic box mounted just behind the left headlight. If the noise goes away, that's the problem. Like Ken said, do a search for "oscillator" and you will find out all kinds of things about this amazing device, except what it does, which nobody seems to know.
05-14-07, 11:41 AM
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well its deff somthing to do with my tack but i will deffinatly give it a try if the noise goes away and the tack still doesnt work i guess that would be half way there
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05-14-07, 11:51 AM
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alrighty im gunna unplug the Oscithingy and if that doesant work then im just gunna start my car and start pulling random fuses untill it stops or untill someone who knows can help
Thanks again everyone this noise must stop one way or the other lololol
Thanks again everyone this noise must stop one way or the other lololol
05-14-07, 03:34 PM
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ya i went out at lunch and it wasnt dooin it anymore but i can guarantee tomarrow morning it will the last 3 days now evry morning it does it and yesterday it did it all day
05-15-07, 01:37 PM
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I had a similar problem, it wasn't the tach buzzer it was the door ajar-lights on buzzer it turned out to be the switch inside the car was set to "door". My interior light does not work so that could of been setting the buzzer off. What I did to fix this was I set my light switch to "off". I don't know if it will help but it would not hurt to try.
05-16-07, 01:06 AM
#16
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If the oscillator gets any moisture in it at all, then it will activate continuously until it dries out again. This sound is unmistakable to anyone who has heard it before.
Imagine taking an ice pick, slowly inserting it into your left ear, then begin tapping on the handle while swirling it around. Multiply that 100 fold and you're begining to get close. It will literally make the car undrivable.
Mine first did this after I cleaned the engine bay, but later would act up on rainy days from time to time. I unplugged it. You might not want to.
The oscillator is there to alert you if certain critical failures occur. I believe these include; low water level, low oil level (or pressure/temp?), and all kinds of really really important stuff. (maybe Trochoid will stop by, he knows what they all are).
Anyway, most of these warnings also have correspoding idiot lights on the instrument panel. I feel that I check my gauges, etc. often enough that I will catch any issues before they get serious. But I'm almost religous when it comes to this, which I'm sure not everyone is.
This is why I say that simply unplugging the damned thing might not be the best solution in your particular case. Anyway, I hope that this information will help someone else in the future. But here is also a solution that will satisfy anyone in this situation:
Problem: The oscillator is prone to moisture.
Solution: Moisture proof the oscillator.
Instructions:
1. If your oscillator is currently acting up, then the first thing you need to do is get the residual moisture out (we'd hate to seal that in there). How you do this is entirely up to you, but I'm sure that your devious little mind will come up with some way to do this which will surprise and thrill us all. The one bit of advice I have for you is this; don't even think about going anywhere near that microwave!
2. The oscillator is located just in front (toward the front of the car, duh) of the battery. It is mounted on the metal wall that separates the battery from everything in front of it... Does that make sense? More heiny's please! Okay, where was I... It looks like (well, actually it is) a little black box. I'd say its maybe a 1"x1"x1" cube with a tab on it that has a screw through it.
3. Okay, now has everybody managed to correctly locate and identify their oscillator? Alright, well the slow ones will just have to catch up. Now, on the bottom side of the oscillator is a bundle of wires that plug into it. You'll want to unplug those wires (its just one plug) and remove the mounting screw. The oscillator should now be in your hand (check to make sure).
4. Moisture proof the oscillator. Spray the hell out of it with some high quality undercoating, coat it in silicone, dip it in goat **** for all I care. However you seal it up is up to you. Just make sure that ALL of the moisture is out of it before you do.
5. Reinstall the oscillator. If you can't figure it out, just read these instructions backwards and then go to bed.
The critics may now sharpen their quills.....
Imagine taking an ice pick, slowly inserting it into your left ear, then begin tapping on the handle while swirling it around. Multiply that 100 fold and you're begining to get close. It will literally make the car undrivable.
Mine first did this after I cleaned the engine bay, but later would act up on rainy days from time to time. I unplugged it. You might not want to.
The oscillator is there to alert you if certain critical failures occur. I believe these include; low water level, low oil level (or pressure/temp?), and all kinds of really really important stuff. (maybe Trochoid will stop by, he knows what they all are).
Anyway, most of these warnings also have correspoding idiot lights on the instrument panel. I feel that I check my gauges, etc. often enough that I will catch any issues before they get serious. But I'm almost religous when it comes to this, which I'm sure not everyone is.
This is why I say that simply unplugging the damned thing might not be the best solution in your particular case. Anyway, I hope that this information will help someone else in the future. But here is also a solution that will satisfy anyone in this situation:
Problem: The oscillator is prone to moisture.
Solution: Moisture proof the oscillator.
Instructions:
1. If your oscillator is currently acting up, then the first thing you need to do is get the residual moisture out (we'd hate to seal that in there). How you do this is entirely up to you, but I'm sure that your devious little mind will come up with some way to do this which will surprise and thrill us all. The one bit of advice I have for you is this; don't even think about going anywhere near that microwave!
2. The oscillator is located just in front (toward the front of the car, duh) of the battery. It is mounted on the metal wall that separates the battery from everything in front of it... Does that make sense? More heiny's please! Okay, where was I... It looks like (well, actually it is) a little black box. I'd say its maybe a 1"x1"x1" cube with a tab on it that has a screw through it.
3. Okay, now has everybody managed to correctly locate and identify their oscillator? Alright, well the slow ones will just have to catch up. Now, on the bottom side of the oscillator is a bundle of wires that plug into it. You'll want to unplug those wires (its just one plug) and remove the mounting screw. The oscillator should now be in your hand (check to make sure).
4. Moisture proof the oscillator. Spray the hell out of it with some high quality undercoating, coat it in silicone, dip it in goat **** for all I care. However you seal it up is up to you. Just make sure that ALL of the moisture is out of it before you do.
5. Reinstall the oscillator. If you can't figure it out, just read these instructions backwards and then go to bed.
The critics may now sharpen their quills.....
Last edited by Kentetsu; 05-16-07 at 01:10 AM. Reason: Corrected formatting,and fixed a spelling issue before someone could (with helpful intentions, I'm sure) point it out to me.
05-16-07, 03:46 AM
#17
Kentetsu, glad you're paying attention, nicely done. Oscillator powers the warning buzzer for low water and low oil, both critical to rotary cooling. (oil does approximately 1/3 of the total cooling load, (for the newbettes)).
I've been looking through the wiring diagrams and have not figured out if the over-rev buzzer goes though the oscillator or not, or if the tach has it's own buzzer.
If someone would care to up plug their oscillator and and confirm whether or not the over-rev buzzer stills works, it will put the issue to rest.
I've been looking through the wiring diagrams and have not figured out if the over-rev buzzer goes though the oscillator or not, or if the tach has it's own buzzer.
If someone would care to up plug their oscillator and and confirm whether or not the over-rev buzzer stills works, it will put the issue to rest.
05-16-07, 11:03 AM
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one of the best things you can invest in to work on these cars, aside from 10 and 12mm sockets, is a large tube of dielectric grease. Any time you have to unplug a harness component, clean the contacts and squirt some grease in there before plugging it back together.
05-16-07, 11:17 AM
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Just a Brain Fart!
Clean up the Trailing Connector ie Igniter on the Disti Wire Colors are YG-BW and if you remove the Ignitor make sure you use some Heat Sink Compond on the Back Side.
Radio Shack always has it in stock. $2.75 for a small tube.
Or it could be a faulty CPU. I chased a similar ie Neutral Switch problem for a couple of days and found that the last place I checked was the CPU Box.
Located left of the Clutch Pedal and just above the Left Foot Rest.
(Not the Big box under the Passenger Side Carpet).
Alot of 7 owners do not know that alot of the Waring Buzzers and Lights are Hooked up in that Box.
If no problems there then go to the Big Box (ECU) and look for the above colored wires and do a Voltage Check with the Ignition on and and the Engine warmed up to normal Temps. Turn off the Engine and leave the Ign on see if you got Juice to those wires.
If not that will cause the Tach Buzzer to go ON-ON-ON.
Good Luck
sgieldon
steve
Look @ the FSM Section B and that will give you the Schematic of where the wires all go.
P.S TO notveryhappyjack
Go Kosei Racing K1's w/ P205-50-15's
Everyone loves the Look to include me.
I had the other ones and sold them for $350.00 w/Tires
Clean up the Trailing Connector ie Igniter on the Disti Wire Colors are YG-BW and if you remove the Ignitor make sure you use some Heat Sink Compond on the Back Side.
Radio Shack always has it in stock. $2.75 for a small tube.
Or it could be a faulty CPU. I chased a similar ie Neutral Switch problem for a couple of days and found that the last place I checked was the CPU Box.
Located left of the Clutch Pedal and just above the Left Foot Rest.
(Not the Big box under the Passenger Side Carpet).
Alot of 7 owners do not know that alot of the Waring Buzzers and Lights are Hooked up in that Box.
If no problems there then go to the Big Box (ECU) and look for the above colored wires and do a Voltage Check with the Ignition on and and the Engine warmed up to normal Temps. Turn off the Engine and leave the Ign on see if you got Juice to those wires.
If not that will cause the Tach Buzzer to go ON-ON-ON.
Good Luck
sgieldon
steve
Look @ the FSM Section B and that will give you the Schematic of where the wires all go.
P.S TO notveryhappyjack
Go Kosei Racing K1's w/ P205-50-15's
Everyone loves the Look to include me.
I had the other ones and sold them for $350.00 w/Tires
Last edited by sgieldon; 05-16-07 at 11:38 AM.
05-16-07, 01:07 PM
#21
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yep again this morning it went off it seams once its about 70* outside it works fine the tack works great and no buzzing then evry morning tach doesnt work and annoying buzzing sound.... pisses me off cuz i have school all morning then after lunch when i go to work on it it doesnt do it anymore... im gunna try and take my dash apart today.... anyone know of a thread with a walk through on how to disassemble my dash??
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