K-Tune

iTrader: (26)

got it running at 100% today, need to mount the boost gauge somewhere i can see it better. also i plan to relocate the stock top mount to a front mount location soon, i just run it with the hood shut on its face ATM.

questions? comments? cuss words?



im going to try to get some vid of it when i find someone to sit in the passenger seat.

Whizbang

more pics of the engine (for my future reference!)

curious, how did you do the wiring harnesses?

3rd and final 7

iTrader: (9)

yeah wee need more info!

nick812

Yea need more picsand info on the setup.

K-Tune

iTrader: (26)

car is a 1984 GSL-SE
engine is from a j-spec from 1988

the driver side harness i made myself, 4 wires from the cas, 4 wires for the leading/trailing coils. the passenger side is USDM 1988 T2

USDM N333 ECU, N318 sensors

ported the wastegate, removed ALL emissions control devices, stock T2 downpipe is gutted.

holds around 6psi of boost.

oil return was made by drilling a 3/4" hole in the front cover, then tapping for 1/2" NPT, brass barbed fitting. standard T3/T4 turbo oil flange bolted to the stock return system with a line to connect it to the front cover.

transmission/rearend are still stock SE gear, as is the clutch/flywheel.

pipe is to connect 2.5" id to 2" id. its a 13" long 2.25" pipe, flared on one end and crimped on the other with flanges from racing beat. muffler is racing beat.

BOV is stock from a mazdaspeed protege routed back into the stock TID.

walbro 255lph inline fuel pump

steve84GS TII

Fear not, the wiring!

Of course,not having to pass smog makes things a lot easier,as does bypassing the stock fuel pump relay/resistor system.
I didnt see a 2nd gen underhood fuse box in the pic.....that ought to be your next mod.Good call on the BOV back to the intake,thats the proper way to do it on a metered air EFI system......course, that rarely stops people from going with an open air return,just so they can sound cool.

Nice work!

K-Tune

iTrader: (26)

thanks for the help steve, the wiring was the biggest butt kicker to me.

its great finally being able to drive it though...deffinatly worth it.

Whizbang

so how is the driving experience?

K-Tune

iTrader: (26)

its great, even at only 6psi.

i don't have twin scroll or anything so the real power doesn't come until 4k, but it does NOT let up until you shift.

with 235mm width tires it starts to slide around if you goose it around bends.

Whizbang

did you have problems using the stock turbo manifold? ive heard it hits something. havent gotten the motor in to find out yet.

K-Tune

iTrader: (26)

i had absolutely no issues with turbo clearance or the manifold. if anything it's close enough to the idler that heat might make it wear out prematurely, even my tough *** moog part.

Whizbang

so a bit of heat shielding on the turbo and there should be no issues. Im glad to see i dont have to do anything special to mount the turbocharger.

rolfs_7

questions? what color will u paint it? comments? very cool cuss words? **** i wish i was boosted......soon.....very soon...

K-Tune

iTrader: (26)

if..and its a pretty big if i get it painted it will go back to the original Silver it once was. i've had to get rid of a lot of rust so there are roaming patches of primer everywhere...looks old and ratty, but it moves and sounds like a true beast.

REVHED

Good work. Now you need a nice 2.5" or 3" mandrel bent exaust.

K-Tune

iTrader: (26)

im still undecided on my exhaust, its rather quiet and mild at the moment and i enjoy it. the muffler is a racing beat piece, and crimping down the 2" doesn't seem to be affecting my boost too badley.

$150FC

It does affect your boost, you just don't realize it. Free flowing is the way to go. You'll spool way quicker. Might blow your motor though

steve84GS TII

The TII turbos only have clearance issues when you bolt them to a non-TII engine.
As far as the chassis is concerned,the S4 clears the idler arm easily.I wouldnt even worry about the idler arm if its a Moog.The S5 turbo is another story.....its much wider because it mounts straight out,instead of at an angle like the S4.The dual wastegate passages come very close to the idler and some grinding and a heatsheild are almost mandetory.That said.....the S5 turbo is so much better,in regards to spoolup,sound and flow.It has a higher exhaust A/R and the split manifold flows a lot better.The merged S4 manifold is why you are so quiet right now.Switch to a S5 turbo and itll get raspy and nasty,like an N/A engine,plus you wont have to deal with any improper/unhooked junk like the twin scroll actuator and such.
The only downside to the S5 turbo is that you have to run an aftermarket boost controller to get more than 5psi,since the stock 8psi of boost is electronically controlled.Other than that,its a direct swap.Once the electronic boost controller is handling the pressure,its hard to not start cranking it up,and thats the killer!!

2" exhaust is pretty close to stock,which will keep you below fuel cut,which is about 8psi on the S4.If you open the exhaust to 2.5",youll probably start to hit the electronic cut in the higher gears,which is not good for the engine.I ran my old S4 TII setup up to 14psi on a stock S5 turbo and GSL-SE secondaries,and it fricken screamed!!!!.....I doubt the stock turbo would have lasted though,it was howling at 14psi,thats why I went with a TO4B hybrid with the S5 engine swap.A fuel cut defenser will be needed if you go bigger on the exhaust.Past 10psi,youll need to install a good fuel pump,something better than the stock TII unit,I used an FD pump,then a SupraTT pump.The stock injectors will deliver enough fuel for 10,maybe 12 psi......look at some 680cc GSL-SE injectors for the secondary positions if you wanna go for 12-14psi.