xlversatilelx

i was wondering if any one knows waht type of setup is need for drifting ? what types of springs and shocks? i was just looking into the RB springs does any one have them for sale??

djmickyg

Suspension:
Real Serious

Components
A good set of decent shocks and stiff springs will work wonders for your drift ability. Do not excessively lower the car. As cool as it looks, it really sucks for driving sideways. A set of GAB, Tein, KYB or even Koni shocks will give the car noticably better handling than standard gear, and will keep the vehicle flatter during a drift. Nolathane bushes help to keep the system nice and tight, increasing vehicle response and control. Upgraded sway bars will help keep the car flat in the drift, making it easier to churn the rear tyres due to even weight transfer. Run the front end nice and soft (or none at all) to prevent understeer or a 'skippy' front end. Set the rear bar hard as buggery to provoke drifting as the vehicle transfers weight. A set of strut braces front and rear not only provide carpark cred but help to make the shell of the vehicle a little stiffer, preventing flexing of your carefully set up suspension geometry (or something), which leads us to...
Geometry
Dial up a phenomenal amount of negative camber on the front wheels, 6 or 7 degrees is barely enough. This makes the car easier to control mid-slide. Add a fair amount of caster as well to aid the wheels in returning to neutral upon the exit of a drift. The Nissan Silvia S13 comes with nearly 1.5 degrees of negative camber on the rears. Dial this off. This will make the car a little more taily, and spread wear evenly across the surface of the tyres. It may take some explaining to your wheel aligner why you want to make a modification they will perceive as unsafe. A picture says a thousand words, people. Show them a shot of you sideways to convey understanding.
Keep in mind some of these modifications may result in the car not being street legal depending on your local road laws, etc. etc.

djmickyg

here is some more info

Driving Position:
Basic
Pedals
Set your seat forward far enough that you can press your foot against the firewall underneath the brake pedal without over-stretching your leg. This will allow you the most suitable pedal control. Don't sit too close to the steering wheel or you may have trouble manipulating it, or catch your feet against pedals during critical moments. Don't sit too far away from the controls or you may not be able to lock the brakes if required.
Steering Wheel
Hold your shoulders back against the seat and rest your wrists on the top of the steering wheel. You should have the seat upright enough that you have a slight bend in the elbows. Do not drive with locked arms, drifting is fluid, you need to be too.
Mirrors
Obviously set your mirrors up to give you a clear rear view. While you may not expect mirrors to be at all relevant to drifting, once you begin drifting with other people, you WILL want to know EXACTLY where everyone else is to minimise the possibility of collisions.
Cabin
Don't forget to empty EVERYTHING out of the cabin and boot of the car before you go throwing it sideways, you can do a lot of damage to the inside of the car and more importantly yourself in the event of a spin or collision. Even the plain weight transfer experienced during drifting can fling an object hard enough back and forth in the boot to damage the car.

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Rims and Tyres:
Advanced
Rims
$5000 Momo wheels may look really nice, but save them for the showroom. This is drifting, you are going to hit stuff, and often the bits you will damage first are your rims and tyres. Run a set of cheap crappy mags, or standard steel rims. Running these into kerbs will not shatter your bank balance.
Tyres
You will want to run the cheapest, crappiest pair of radials you can find on the rear end because you will be shredding the crap out of them. The cheaper they are to replace the better. On the front end however, you will want some superior grippy stuff to keep the nose pointed where you want it. With the money you save by buying crap rear tyres, buy a decent set of soft compound fronts but keep in mind if you spin out a lot, you'll start wearing these out too.
If you get to know a tyre supplier you can pick up the crappy old tyres they're throwing out for $$CHEAP$$. My last set was a bargain, thanks to Shane from Goodyear Vic Park. Often these tyres have been sitting in the sun for a few months and have gone hard as rock, making them absolutely *SWEET* drift material. Most people will opt for new tyres while their current set still have legal tread on them (barely)... excellent drift potential here. Store them in diesel for extra mid-corner smoke action.

Pressure
Tyres should be nice and hard to promote wear as evenly as possible across the face of the tread. Front tyres should be run somewhere between 30 and 35psi to provide optimum grip, and rears should be run at 40psi+ to make them hard and easier to break traction. If you run tyres too soft you run the risk of peeling them off the rim in the result of a spin, particularly if you end up going sideways into dirt/grass/gravel/etc.

RotorMotorDriver

iTrader: (1)

Here ya go. Springs for sale.

~T.J.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33582

jeremy

iTrader: (1)

also as a warning, be weary as your car will be more liable to bite you as the setup becomes "looser". so learn in an open spot before going off the road tail first.

Pele

iTrader: (28)

Can't negative camber our rears... Solid live rear axle.

jeremy

iTrader: (1)

however some racers have been successful in bending it to -1 degree each side. not sure the mechanical complications or wear associated with that.

thorin

allegedly there is much increased wear on the bearings.

Pele

iTrader: (28)

Peraps the floating rear axle conversion will help with that?

xlversatilelx

well im planning to buy the RB srings and tok...something shocks would that be good enough?? and would it really be necesarry to have a LSD would it still be possible to drift W/O a LSD??? cuz yea my 81 doesnt have one thanks for the replies

81Rex6port13b

im going to go with tokico 5 way adj.'s RB or tokico springs (witch ever has the highest rate) some camber plates a bushing kit and larger swaybars.

you dont realy need lsd to drift per-say but it will help prevent hoping when you try and accelerate mid-drift.

get good camber in the front 5-7 would be fine, as stiff as you can make the rear and medium in the front ( thats what i like) to give a bit of le-way. if you want to realy slide around get some nice griping tires in the front and some crappy all seasons in the back. you will break them loose verry easly.

this is just my opinion others may like it different. im used to a 240sx (was my last car) and im not to familar with drifting in FB's but i will have a lot of fun learing.

680RWHP12A

all you need to drift in a rx7 is small tires and a turbo motor..... done! oops and a posi rear pumpkin!

680RWHP12A

my shop is in Chatsworth, 45 minutes from you, stop by and i can show you what you need to drift! i have a couple of cars you could check out!

a special treat for drifters ..... a Toyota AE86 13B turbo conversion! for drifting

djmickyg

pictures pictures!! big fan of the AE86. and now even bigger fan with a 13b.
the guy from initial d will want the roaty one tooo

jayroc

I think drift tengoku did a story awhile back on a ae86 with a 20b conversion. That thing hauled some ***. It was a sunoco sponsor car, I think. I'll try and dig up the video link...

jeremy

iTrader: (1)

5-7 degrees camber?????????? good god. bye bye inner tire. maybe if this was track specific.

82streetracer

iTrader: (1)

I could drift with my open differential, not pefect though

82transam

iTrader: (18)

AE86's are awesome. I had the opportunity to buy one a few months ago but let is slip away, dammit i really wish i had gotton it.

xlversatilelx

sweet give meeh directions to your shop i would love to see that 86 whoo hoo! and yeah i just wana check it out