Suspension Geometry question.
11-04-05, 09:38 PM
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Suspension Geometry question.
How would it affect geometry if I were to drop the mount for the sway bar/tension rod down between 1 and 2 inches?
11-04-05, 09:55 PM
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When you say that your going to drop the sway bar...how were you planning on doing it? When you drop the sway bar- you are effectivly making the car tighter going into turns...and can make it loose coming out. Give me some more info- This is what I went to school for......lets see if it works! lol
11-04-05, 09:59 PM
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Okay, I need to revise the question after relizing that dropping the whole mount isn't what I need. I need to drop the tension rod. Heres a pick
I'm trying to make room for tie rods in a front steering set up.
I'm trying to make room for tie rods in a front steering set up.
11-04-05, 10:02 PM
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I just started with trying to set this up, and am noticing alot of things working agianst me.
#1 being that I swapped the steering nuckel so that it's in the front, but because it's designed to be in the rear and with caster the mount for the tie rod is relitivly high.
I'm tired so please forgive the speeling.
#1 being that I swapped the steering nuckel so that it's in the front, but because it's designed to be in the rear and with caster the mount for the tie rod is relitivly high.
I'm tired so please forgive the speeling.
11-04-05, 10:38 PM
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Think concept with me for a minute here...it is difficult to do without having the car in front of me to see mounting points...exc... However...what if you were to use something like this... mind you we can get you a staight bar...just think about the mounting points to the frame...then to the lower A arm...
These are mounts that attatch to the bar and then to the lower A-arm.
You would use hyme joints to attach it to the lower A-arm...and then weld the mounts to the frame...
I did this on a race car a couple years ago...with a straight bar... 1 1/2...and it was FULLY adjustable....AMAZING Handleing!
These are mounts that attatch to the bar and then to the lower A-arm.
You would use hyme joints to attach it to the lower A-arm...and then weld the mounts to the frame...
I did this on a race car a couple years ago...with a straight bar... 1 1/2...and it was FULLY adjustable....AMAZING Handleing!
Last edited by SCCAIT7; 11-04-05 at 10:55 PM.
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11-05-05, 07:36 AM
#9
Originally Posted by rotor vs. piston
#1 being that I swapped the steering nuckel so that it's in the front, but because it's designed to be in the rear and with caster the mount for the tie rod is relitivly high.
You must be looking to go to a front mounted steering rack, hence the front steer tie rod mounts. I could see where the 2nd gen cross member swap would help you with this due to the fact the tension rods will be eliminated.
Or a custom fabricated solution that puts a steering rack up front, front mount engine mounts, fabricated lower a arms and ties it all in nicely. That would be my choice.
-billy
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