Hello,

I have a pristine 1982 GSL with only 40K on it. Car has lived the majority of its life in IL/IN, has always been stored indoor and has never been out in the winter. I typically drive it a little each year in the fall but for the past 2 years have only started it up and moved it in and out of the garage to clean it. Mostly because my tires were like 30+ years old and I didn't want a blow out! I finally got some new tires today (first time I have every had the wheels off since I purchased it in 1994!). I did a thorough inspection of all the suspension and brake components with it up in the air. The car was undercoated when new so it mostly looks grungy and dusty. The brakes and lines (I do a fluid flush every couple of years) look good but the suspension bushings are all cracked and don't look so good and there are also a couple of broken boots on the steering components. I was considering replacing the worn bushings but it looks like I will only be able to obtain poly bushings. I am also considering new shocks and springs (I don't see any leaks or weeping on the shocks or struts nor spring sag - but since it may all be apart..)
Problem I have is that I don't want to take away from the original condition of the car. Any thoughts on this?

 

If you’re just driving it like you have, it probably not worth the expense, especially if you’re going to pay someone.

that being said, these cars aren’t worth much, so fighting to keep it all original isn’t going to buy you a ton of value.

if you want to drive it and enjoy it, I would change everything out for a better experience.

 

Have you checked to see if any of the bushings are still available from Mazda? Might surprise you. And I wouldn't rely on the parts counter guy, you need to do your homework and research the P/N's from the parts fisch. From there, you can do an online search.

 

i think you could persuade me to do the front bushings, and you will want to do the boots, but i'd leave the rest alone, its better than any replacements, lol

 

I saw on here just in the last couple days that front control arm rubber bushings are still available. If the ball joints are bad you can push out the old ones and replace with nice new tight ones, they are friction fit but you ought to tack weld them in for safety. I had a shop do mine, the arms are angled enough that it's easy to push the new ones in crookedly, which I did with the first one, and then took both arms to the shop and was lucky the old school machinist could fix the munged hole.

For the rear upper and lower trailing arms, everyone says to keep the rubber because they need to be flexible side to side as well as rotating about their normal axes. So unless they are trashed then I'd let them be. You can go with ​​​poly for the watts link and sway bars.


Edit: I just saw j9fd3s's post and I agree with leaving stuff alone if it's in decent shape, and just replacing boots if the ball joints are good.

 

I would replace the front bushings everywhere with poly ones and do the same to the watts linkage in the rear. It will make a huge difference. The tierods and control arms I would replace. The ball joints are probably pretty loose or will be if you start driving it more. If its been sitting that much and has all original vacuum, fuel, and coolant lines they are just leaks waiting to happen after 40+ years.

Can we see pics of the car? We love pic!

 

I changed all the belts and hoses (was able to get all OEM) a few years back. I also use Evan’s coolant to prevent corrosion. Just the suspended rubbers are a little dry. The engine compartment vacuum lines are all supple. The car gets regular care.

Thanks for the tips! I think I will pull the sway bar end link bushes out and inspect them. Perhaps what I am seeing is just superficial.

 

Beautiful car! Definitely share photos of any bushings that you question, people here are very helpful and knowledgeable.

 

I bought all new rear links from the dealer 3 years ago, but Mazdatrix is showing the upper rear links and the lower Watts link NLA.

 

Beautiful specimen of a GSL. The reason why guys are saying to do whatever you want with the front suspension bushings but leave the rears OEM rubber (*at least for the trailing arms) is because increasing rear stiffness removes articulation and decreases handling, comfort and performance. I went with OEM rear suspension all around to keep the comfort level high. If it were a track car, most of those go full Heim joint or get rebuilt with Panhard rods. For a street car, comfort matters,

 

According to Hagerty's evaluation for 2026, Fredo's RX7 GSL in which it appears to me to be in #2 condition are worth $28K. If you happen to own a GSL-SE model add +20% to that evaluation. RX7's in that condition are getting those prices.

 

Some replacement ball joints come with snap rings to retain them, obviating the tack welds.

 

DEFINITELY pay attention to this. Make sure the ball joints have a snap ring or have a mobile welder come by and weld them. Dont rely on the press fit style. I learned this the hard way... was lucky the ball joint popped loose as I backed out of the driveway and not on the highway.

 

Poly is just fine everywhere but the trailing arms. For the trailing arms, Atkins Rotary has complete OEM arms with rubber bushings installed.
https://www.atkinsrotary.com/79-85-R...1-28-300A.html
https://www.atkinsrotary.com/79-85-R...71-28-200.html

 

The snap rings just mean that the ball joint rattles around in there.

The issue with replacing the ball joints is that the swage in the control arm stamping tends to only work with the first one, the act of pressing the old one out and new one in will open it up. Thus, the need to tack weld in place.

I would avoid poly like the plague - the plastic will creep and get loose fairly quickly. I ruined a car by going to poly bushings. Never again. IMO just leave well enough alone, the bushings you have are probably far better than anything in the aftermarket.

 

I am not sure of what the best option is for the front control arms, it's not clear if they are still available new from Mazda. ( I have T3 front control arms).

But for all the rear suspension, I would go with new from Mazda. I was able to source uppers, lowers, watts links, and the watts link pivot bracket all new. Plus through the dealer was able to get the majority of the hardware, ie bolts, nuts and washers. Definatley a lot more expensive than a generic Poly bushing kit but absolutely worth it.

Be sure to do all the final torques with the suspension loaded.

 

IIRC, 626 control arms are identical dimensionally but have a separate part number because they have a little bracket on them not present on RX-7s.