lazlong

Hi guys, hope someone can help here.

84 gsl. Stored it for the winter. Started regularly, no problems. About a month ago, I started it and a few seconds later, the add coolant light came on. Some smoke (steam?) came up from the engine and I shut her down. There was a small pool of coolant under the oil pan area. I have a small oil drip from the oil pan gasket, usually on a few drops everytime I start her up, this time it was coolant. I cannot for the life of me find where it came from.

the next time I tried to start her, she wouldn't go. Killed the battery trying. She fired up with a boost, but the engine sounded like she was dying and shook violently. With full throttle she wouldn't rev past 1000rpm. Without gas, she'd die.

LOTS of forum reading, and I followed all the no-start flooding threads. De-flooded a whole bunch of times.

Now she starts up then dies immediately. After a few attempts she won't even start. Take plugs out, clean the oil off them, crank engine with fuel pump fuse out, clouds of gas and oil come spraying out. Wash rinse repeat. Same results.

Is it really that hard to rebuild compression? I've tried seafoam and 2cycle oil down the carb. Starter fluid. After she stalls I get a nice cloud of gas vapour out of the carb. Float levels look good.

Today I found a broken 'T' connector from what I think is a mitsubishi EGR valve? part no N249? It connects to a solenoid and the idle compensator(?) on the air cleaner? I fixed that, (dunno how long it was broken) still no start.

I notcied over the winter she was blowing lots of white smoke till she warmed up. I assumed it was condensation...or just being cold... perhaps it was coolant?

I tried the ghetto compression test, and it sounds good to me?

I'm getting fuel, so I don't think its my pump. Is it possible something is cutting fuel once she starts? (then dies right away?) Everytime I pull my plugs they are covered in oil. I did pour some 2 cycle oil down the carb... but I've cranked the engine with the plugs out a dozen times since, and it still happens.

At this point I'm thinking it's time for a rebuild. Any reason she suddenly went bad? I'm reading these forums extensively for clues. This post is a desperate attempt for a solution.

Sorry for the long post, but figured I'd explain everything.

Thanks!
Erron.

lazlong

So I couldn't figure out my problem. Everything I can test is working as it should. Starts, then stalls immediately.

Decided I might as well rebuild the carb. I figured at this point I can't make it much worse!

All the manuals, tutorials and how-to's aren't kidding when they say the rear drivers side carb nut is a pain to get off! I decided to just get rid of my rat's nest while I was digging in there. Wow! It was easy to get the nut off after that.

I have a funny feeling that car still won't start when I'm all done, but I'll be having fun learning in the mean time.

Is it possible that a sensor has gone bad and that is why the car won't start? About the only thing I didn't try was taking off the exhaust to see if the cat was plugged solid. I guess it would be possible, but to go from running fine to no-start doesn't sound like a cat to me?

Back to work!

Cheers
Erron.

dankekong

iTrader: (2)

Not to be a downer....but when you pull plugs on any other car and get oil that usually means a blown head gasket. With the rotary...well....same idea, just the 12a (nor the 13b) doesn't have head gaskets. Im not sure exactly which gasket/seal it would be....but the problem would not have anything to do with emissions or carburetor condition.

good luck....and hopefully the engine is still good! (just needs a rebuild..... :-/)

74RX4

iTrader: (10)

Coolant leak on the right side, dripping onto the exhaust manifold, is probably from intake o-rings. Can allow coolant into the intake producing white smoke. Leak on right near the firewall is heater hose. Leak on left side is heater hose under oil filter. Have you replaced your fuel filter?

lazlong

Thanks for the replies.

Fuel filter was new last fall. Old one looked good, and the tank is clean from what I've seen. Replaced the sending unit last year.

The coolant pooled under the engine towards the back... unless it's coming directly from the motor, it has to be a coolant hose near the firewall. Seeing as it only happened once or twice and it hasn't leaked since, I'm guessing once the hose gets hot the leak opens up. I'm squeezing everything and I haven't found it yet. Probably time just to replace all the hoses anyhow.

As for the oil, I'm learning these engines the hard way. Yeah, oil on plugs can't be good.

Took off the air pump today and it was definitely due for a replacement. Pretty sure it isn't supposed to make a sick squeaky sound.

Oh and for anyone following my first post, the thing I thought was a 'mitsubishi egr valve' is the Vacuum switch. d'oh!

Back to work!

snivley whiplash

iTrader: (4)

coolant leak is probably from the back iron freeze plugs leaking into the clutch/bell housing area. only way to tell is pull the engine and inspect

lazlong

Thanks, that's what I was wondering about. Doesn't sound good. Seeing as I finished assembling my shop crane 2 days ago, I may as well put it to good use.

My next step is to start searching the forums on the problem. I've read a bit already. Err...is this a fatal problem?

snivley whiplash

iTrader: (4)

no not a problem, easy fix, pull engine or trans and inspect. will be easy to see